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I just bought a second hand TCI built circle track glide for $250. I plan to couple it to an AC50. It uses a coupler and no flex plate or t/c. I will keep you updated as to how it works.

I would love to see pictures since I plan on using the same transmission.
Are you keeping the bell housing or connecting adapter to front pump bolts?
Bypassing the cooler?
Since I have total control over my controller I will be providing an 'idle' capability to maintain pressure in the trans (among other things). How are you dealing with the fluid pressure issue?
What vehicle will be getting this drive train?

If you have a blog or build thread, just point me in the right direction.

Thanks,

Eric
 

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Sorry for the late reply. I had forgotten this thread....



Adapter kit and coupler



AC50 + Glide




in the car




External pump


To date I have not driven it but the 150PSI pump puts it in low gear easily. It is turned on by my foot on the brake pedal. I am not using a pressure switch.

It is a TCI full manual oval-track glide. I had to replace the speedo gears and "bullet" as they were removed for racing.

BTW: the adapter uses the GM Crate engine (later small block) crankshaft flange pattern. The coupler can be bought early or late patterns to suit your adapter. ALSO: I had to play with (shorten) the input shaft and coupler length to get my 1/16" end play to assure the front pump was not end loaded and fail.



Miz
 

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I am of the impression that a corvair working powerslide is worth more to an owner of said corvair than a used well equipped race powerslide. perhaps even more so. Unless you are converting one, I'd off it and get better.
 

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hey guys, many of you know much more about cars than I do, and while you are discussing gearboxes I would like to ask a question.
how do you determine how much torque a given gearbox can handle (is this a specification given with the car?) or is it simply based on push it until it brakes :) ?
for example, would a manual gearbox of a 2000 Audi TT (with original 1.8 turbo engine) be able to handle twin 9" motors with a Soliton 1?...this should deliver nearly 400ft-lb of torque
 

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Depends if you want to keep within the manufactures rating for the gearbox. To find that out you need to search for the transmission type. And then search for the spec for that.

You'll find if you want a performance EV you'll need to use the gearbox from a performance ICE.

For example a BMW E46. The gearbox in a 330i rated for 320 NM, the gearbox in the 325 is 250 NM.

400 ft-lb is 540 NM - look into a getting a racing tranny? The Audi 1.8T is probably around 200 NM.

Then you also need to upgrade brakes, suspension etc.

Also have a look at what tuners have done. Here is an example:

http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=39405&sid=26a1b52f098b463c6bea3e8d5dd5cadb&start=25
 

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John: A 1963 Pontiac Tempest also Had a rear transaxle, some were powerglides. The motor was in the front and drove it with a very small/rigid driveshaft.

Also some Porches were front engine with a rear transaxle.

Just a thought.

Miz
 

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UPDATE:

A manual shift/direct drive powerglide works in an EV really well! I have gotten about 100 miles on mine at this writing.

It weighs 75 lbs.- my T-5 manual weighed 88 Lbs. (plus clutch/flywheel/linkage)

Things I have discovered:

1-They are easy to work with and on.
2-They can not be "idled" when a direct drive coupler is used.
3-Mine ran 170 deg. F. after an hour driving in 109 Deg. F. temps.
4-It works with Regen braking just fine. The clutch/band stays locked all the way down to zero shaft speed.(then a 2-3 second delay until it drops pressure and goes to neutral.)
5-I used a 140 PSI pump, but you might get by with 80 Lbs or so.
6- For EV use, do NOT use Kevlar in the frictions. You can really use the stock-factory parts OR use the RED or BLUE racing friction parts. Kevlar only accelerates wear because it is aggressive.
7-Do NOT use an aluminum front drum, the low band wears them fast.
8-DO use a steel front hub.
9-DO use the rear clutch case savers (made for trans brake duty). It is just good sense and stops case wear for the reverse clutches.
10-DO remove reverse clutches. Run 2 on a light car(2500# or less), run 3 on all others. It reduces friction,wear, heat while in forward gears.
11-There are several small holes to drill out to increase oil flow to critical areas. Get a book.
12-No need to change to a turbo type input shaft for strength.
13-you can eliminate the "kick down" lever and rod, as you dont want a "passing gear drop down when driving an EV."
14-Always loop the cooler circuit. It lubricates a less critical portion of the transmission that the main pressure gallery omits. Only eliminate the loop if you are changing the valve body or really know what you are doing.
15-There is not a single port to supply to both forward and reverse from an external pump. I am plumbed into the low band apply servo cover. I do not have pressure in reverse and must apply throttle a little until it clunks into gear...annoying for sure.

I need to rebuild my Glide this winter and will search for the correct place to pressurise the trans to have both forward and reverse gearing.

Those "air cooled" powerglides may be a better choice for an EV, especially if you are direct coupled. The torque converter makes 80% of the transmission heat. The low gear planetary makes most of the rest.

I like the 1.85 gearing for my purposes. It is lighter duty than the 1.72 version, but my usage is way with in the GM normal standards.

All the 4 and 6 cylinder applications and some of the 283 cars are 1.85 gearing. All the 327 and up V-8 applications are 1.72 gearing.

They can be told externally by the output shaft splines and the shaft diameter is smaller in the 1.85 versions...but they both use the same output yoke....go figure...

In my area, on Craigslist, I routinely find powerglides for $150-$400 or so, depending on the condition or if it was recently rebuilt.

More when I go into the trans....Miz
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
MIZ,

Thanks for following through and building and posting the process of what I knew, but health prevented me from proving.

A Powerglide would be a very good solution for EV converters.

I have found it amazing that people are afraid of automatics because they don't understand how planetary gear sets and clutch packs work. This is truly amazing because a lot of these same people understand how a PWM controller works.

Here you have a transmission that has all of the things an EVer needs
Light weight
Strong
Two speeds forward
A reverse
A park
So many aftermarket parts that a new trans can be built from scratch.

It really makes me feel good to see what I couldn't do myself done and working.

Thanks,
Jim
 

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It would be nice to see a video of the changes and prep that needs to be done to make the PG work with electric . I think more people would use them if they really understood how to make them work .

I agree this thread is great information when I do my car I will be doing a PG for sure.
 

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Powerglides are great transmissions, but remember you will end up with 1:1 in your final gear, so your rear diff ring and pinion should fit your max speed you need. They are better suited for higher rpm motors.
 

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DISCLAIMER: I am not discussing vehicle current draw, just vehicle driveability.

Ron brings up a critical point.

Pretty much all vehicles are dependent on the motor's top rpm and the car's final drive ratio.

As Ron said- My 2,000# car and 32" tire likes a 6.14 gear and the AC50's top RPM (6500+). It works by having a 2,000# car and the RPM to give a good top speed.

A powerglide will also work on a torque brute like the Warp 11 or 13, in a similar car. When they are geared for their top RPM the final drive works out to be a shorter 3.55-4.10 (depending on tire size). This combination works by having enough torque to cover the bottom end.

The powerglide would be a poor choice for a smaller motor (AC or DC), or a heavy vehicle (3,500 Lbs and up) or hilly country if you want a top speed over 40 MPH.

Heavy haul trucks have an 18 speed transmission for a reason. To suit the motor torque to the hill and vehicle weight. Electric power is a lot like Diesel power, it has good torque over a narrow RPM band. Gear accordingly or you will be disappointed.

Ivansgarage is building a GMC Sonoma. He is using the original 4L60E transmission. It will work nicely in the truck which will be 3,500Lbs and up in weight. It is still converterless and retains the automatic shift features.



The water cooled AC motor being mocked up with the 4L60E transmission.

The motor specs are not public yet, but it is about 1/3 over an AC50 in torque. This and the 4 speeds will make this a really nice driving combination.

You can kill a nice install by "cheap skating" the gearing. (Trying to make do with what is in the vehicle.)

Everything is in the gearing for your situation.
 

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Powerglides are great transmissions, but remember you will end up with 1:1 in your final gear, so your rear diff ring and pinion should fit your max speed you need. They are better suited for higher rpm motors.
That is a good point. Most street EVs currently out there would be happiest with final drive ratios between 4.5 to 1 and 6 to one. Racing uses taller (numerically lower) gears to keep the motor drawing peak power but street use favors more rpm when going down a freeway.
 
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