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Progress on retrofitting my Yaris

1729 Views 1 Reply 2 Participants Last post by  dtbaker
Just a FWIW. (by the way I wish it were 30 years ago and I pull into a Texaco and ask fill'er and check the oil)
Anyway in fitting my Lifpo's one thing led to another and now am redesigning battery boxes and controller and Dc/Dc and aux battery mounts.

I removed 55# of angle iron framing for the lead batteries and made proper mounts that actually helped the unibody structure of my 2007 Yaris 3dr hatch. I am adding less than 25# of battery supports, etc so I have a net savings of 30#. yeahhhh

Before I had 169# of lead batteries in front now I have 221# of Lifepo. (so adding 52# more in front, but getting rid of the old battery hold downs, 20# so I am up 32# net in the front) I lowered the cg of the batteries in front 3.5 inches.

Before I had 420# of lead in the rear and now I have 344# of Lifpo4's and I cut out the rear tire well and lowered the floor pan there 4 inches so all in all I lowered the cg in the back 5 inches and will be able to cover and uncover the batteries with the stock floor that I think lifts and lowers with the rear hatch door.

I am coming in at 2450# overall weight and with 18x160ah TS and 28x180ah Calbs, I hope to get an easy 80 mile range. I left room for an additional 10+ cells if i MUST have more range.

I am bottom skinning the complete underside with some 1/8" FRP or ABS? to improve the aero.

Quite a fruitful day. And yes i will post pix maybe tomorrow


Question. How much air flow does my warp9 need? Would I need to put a scoop under the car or in the covered grill when I bottom skin the undersides? Or would there be enough ambient air coming in from cracks here and there? (I am running at 144V).
AND on the warp is there an air flow direction? ie grill at the end cap then towards the front or vice versa?
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do you have close up pix of how you are doing your racking and specifically how you are holding the cells down?
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