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Ok so if I understand you here, I need to have 1xBMS line running to the centre post of each module, and 1 running to the positive post of each module, so that's 2 connections for each group of connection points?
Yes... and that's 2x48=96, plus one more on the end negative post of the pack, for a total of 97 wires.

Now that I've looked into it further, I probably could get away with smaller bolts, I didn't really see the need to go at the bare minimum standard, but maybe M17 would be overkill? I suppose I could get away with 4 x M14 each side, or even 6 x M12's, I just want to be absolutely sure that it will stay where I want it.
So you really mean M17? Okay - I was mostly trying to clarify the intended size, rather than criticize the choice of size, but that is surprisingly big. Of course larger than necessary is better than not big engough. What bolts are used to hold the e-NV200 pack into the vehicle?
 

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2007 Proton Jumbuck GLi running Nissan eNV200 Gear
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Ok so it's been a bit of a while since the update.

Because this car has sat for so long everything on it is either seized or rusted, making removal difficult, including the gearbox which is shattered somehow internally, which means getting the CV Retaining nuts off was fun. In the end, rattle gun to the rescue.

Biggest things:
  1. The springs on the Nissan are 70mm and the springs on the Jumbuck are 60mm, however the mounts are the same distance apart! So the Nissan Rear Axle will switch into the Jumbuck, giving me an upgrade to 4 wheel Discs
  2. The Upper Strut mounts are both 70mm centre to centre on the Nissan and the Jumbuck, as is the Lower COntrol Arm Ball Joint Mount, which means the Nissan hubs will be a straight swap over
  3. This means I will be able to swap the 4x100 Mitsubishi Gear for 5x114.3 Nissan gear, giving me a much greater range of rims that can take the load, handle the power, and meet compliance.
  4. I'm heavily leaning on the idea of a MOTEC M1 system to control everything, as that seems the easiest way to get this running with the compliance and an off the shelf automotive designed system.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
So work, procrastination, and lack of willpower have stalled the project for a while.

Consistency is a killer at the moment, I've been jumping from prep engine bay, to strip interior, to what fabric I should retrim stiff in, what dash I want to use, oh, what colour will I paint it?

Hopefully get back to it this weekend.

I think I'll clean the bloody shed out, then drag the Nissan down there and pull the batteries and motor. Once it's apart I'll be set I think.
 

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2007 Proton Jumbuck GLi running Nissan eNV200 Gear
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
So I figured I can just squeeze the battery under the tray.

So I designed this cradle.

It will mount to the factory suspension points, and then I can use the eNV200 rear suspension

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Also here's some pics of the van:
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So I pulled the trigger on the controller today.

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No turning back now! The wife is aware this is costing money now.
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Right, so I've settled on using a MoTec display for the build, which are nice but pricey. But they directly interface with the CANBUS.

I did find a bunch of decided leaf codes in a DBC, bit I've emailed Isak to see if he has others, or even better, a decoded DBC of eNV200 ones, which would be even better.

At this stage I have imported them into the MoTec display creator, and had a fiddle, looks good so far and I think I have the hang of it.

Here's a screenshot for you all.

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
So I'll add another update while I'm here:

  • Looks like I'll need to find somewhere to either get a CHAdeMo plug under $900 + Shipping (around what AliExpress is selling them for) or I'll have to reuse the one that I have.
  • When I started the project, the Resolve Controller hadn't been released, so that was an issue there. Now the way I'm going to wire this in is different to how I planned to wire the Thunderstruck controller in, so I'm basically going to have to De-Loom the car, pull apart the loom, and Re-Loom the car. That will be the nearest way.
  • On a side note I'm looking to buy a Laser paint stripper and strip the paint that way, then I'm going to Rhino/LineX/Raptor Line the engine bay and interior of the cab and underbody, as well as sound deaden the cabin. These were noisy cars with the ICE, but you could hear the 1.5l of pure Malaysian licenced fury
  • My plan is done sort of primer, sealer, and then just a vinyl wrap. That way when I get bored, I'll just re-wrap it.
  • I may at some stage look into a Muxsan range extender, I'll measure up the tray, stick a false floor in, and see if Muxsan can custom build one, but I know at the moment they are chat stick getting the standardised ones out the door. 24kWh will do me for now with the ability to fast charge.
At the moment the furthest I'll likely drive the car will be to see a friend in Mooloolaba, which is a fair hike to the other side of Brisbane, so using EVnavigation I get this:
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That same trip in ABRP gets me this:

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But both seem to be the "Just in time" charging and I can't figure out how to change it.

I don't do long trips in my ICE vehicle by going "I have 700km of range on my Diesel, at 10.4l/100km I need 30l to get me there, I'm only gonna put 30l in the car"

If I'm on a long trip, I'll just fill the car, because I'm gonna use it. From what I can understand the most damage occurs when you keep driving below 20% or if you leave it constantly over 80%
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Well that was anti-climatic.

I have never done an unboxing before in my life, and I thought this would be way more interesting, but it is just a VCU.

 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Right, so today after much deliberation on the how the hell am I gonna do this without a hoist I got advice last week from someone on another forum.

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Bloody hell timber is expensive these days, $63 for two treated sleepers to cut up.

Jack her up, sit the tyres on the sleepers, and dropped it out.

Now unlike what people say, there is 8 bolts holding the battery pack into the eNV200, 18mm heads, not 17mm

Thankfully I was able to locate them all.

There is roughly 1 metric crapload of 10mm bolts holding the plastic splash guard on (that's 2.2 Imperial Craploads for the Americans in the room) as well as around 8 metric Craploads of plastic trim retainers (17.6 imperial Craploads)

So we didn't get photos, but we shoved some wheeled removalist Dolly's under there and a car trolly jack and dropped it onto that.

However it didn't quite roll on the grass
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Mostly out is out right?

So after wiggling the engine crane over, I got it back on the Dolly's
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
More pics of the pack:

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Left to right: Air con connection, HV Plug, I believe the granny charge plug, and the BMS plug

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That's the main pack fuse, the pack was dead when I removed it, and I didn't want to spend 15 minutes pulling interior apart to pull it from the cabin.
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LeafSpy gives some funny readings when she's dead...
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Then we have all the safety instructions.

I understand only one label, this one:
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Thankfully, I don't need to. So yeah.

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Funnily enough, that warning I think is redundant....I don't think this will fit in my kerbside wheely bin....

Who disposed of an EV pack in a wheely bin to require this warning to be there?

I don't understand the Japanese.

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The full warning placard.

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Panel 1

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Panel 2

And you saw panel 3 with the wheely bin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
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There were also 2 earth straps I bent a little bit CJ's I missed them just beside the rear mounting points

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Rear mounting points
 

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There is roughly 1 metric crapload of 10mm bolts holding the plastic splash guard on (that's 2.2 Imperial Craploads for the Americans in the room) as well as around 8 metric Craploads of plastic trim retainers (17.6 imperial Craploads)
Crapload and Shitload are pretty much universal in the english speaking world usually accompanied with other colorful words. I appreciate The conversion though. The more colorful words before crap/Shitload is directly related to skinned knuckles, dropped bolts.
Later floyd
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
So I started stripping the dash apart today because I was bored, and I found something incredibly bizarre.

More on that in a minute, but just so you know, there are only 4 bolts holding the shifter linkage into the eNV200 dash, however, you have to remove a lot.

Easier to show you:


On to the bit that surprised me.

The eNV200 has a PHYSICAL SHIFTER LINKAGE!!!

This was entirely enexpected.

I have sent Isak at Resolve a video, and we are discussing how this may work.

Everything I have found online says the same thing, they're the same box as the Leaf, just different ratio.

The box side of things I can't find a physical linkage, maybe I need glasses....

So this raises some questions:
  1. Is my eNV, being an early 2014 model, different because it was an early one? I don't think so because at this point they'd already been building the Leaf for years, the rest of the parts were the same. Why would Nissan make a whole new part and reinvent a wheel that works?
  2. Is my eNV being a JDM model, rather than EUDM, different? Is there some obscure Japanese law saying you need a physical linkage? I think not as electrical shifting has been a thing pioneered in Japanese cars. Why would the van be any different?
So yeah, those things had me confused just a tiny bit.

My other theory is the Combi was an afterthought to the eNV200 work van, tradespeople are rough on gear, so there could be a magic Box converting the linkage to the CAN signals buried somewhere, and that the linkage is designed to help stop abuse.

Maybe Nissan did this to make the shifter more "Normal" for normal people.

I've done a lot of thinking about this, and it's screwing with my head. I'm mad that it's dark now, and I can't go looking more and poking this more. It's nearly 10pm here and I can't stop thinking this over and over.

Either way, here's the point I realised:

 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Now that I have the battery out of the van, I was able to take some precise measurements off it and adjust my CAD.

In some ways for those who have been following, there's some radical changes.

Rather than adjust my prior CAD drawings, I started from scratch again and got a much better result.

The subframe is designed to pull out the suspension, fuel tank, spare tyre, and all, and bolt in as a replacement using the axle from the van.

However with the rims I've picked here, I'm a bit naughty, overall I have a 60mm track increase for that #stance for those that are into the #stanceculture this will fit right in hahaha.

Well actually, it's not the rims, it is the hubs and stuff, turns out the van has a staggered track, which I hadn't factored in.

Thankfully some modified GLSi rear flares should get me out of trouble in that regard.

I'm designing the whole thing to be fully reversible where possible, so that if I ever decide to go back to combustion, the door is there (I probably won't, but it's also less engineering if everything is bolt in)

As for this design, I end up with a really whopping huge cavity above the battery back that's just dead space. I don't know what I am going to do here, but I may design up something so I can stick a fridge in there and have cold beers everyday for when I finish work. That sounds like a worthwhile endeavour for me with this.

Hopefully now that I've shoved the suspension and wheels on the CAD, you should be able to better visualise what this is doing, and for the eagle eyed, yes, that's a 5x114.3 stud pattern on the rims.

Weight, I know some people will want to talk weight.

The battery comes in at 290kh which is by far the heaviest bit here, the whole assembly comes in at 409.787kg

Now I save around 60kg on the fuel tank, around 100kg on the factory rear axle, another 55kg per rim and tyre.

So offsetting all that, I save ~325kg so this really only adds 85kg over the back end, which is according to my maths, just shy of 3 cartons of beer.

Plus in the front, I'm saving ~100kg on the Drive Unit compared to the original engine, so I'm still in the green here by 15kg

For those that want to know, the frame itself weighs in at only 48kg, which is a far cry from my piss poor previous iteration tipping the scales at 147kg! I was advised by many people that 75mm Tube with a 5mm wall was the stuff they build literal truck parts out of, or structural members for buildings! So instead I'm going with 50mm and 3.2mm wall (Actually 48.3mm) which has saved me weight significantly. This is a tad heavier than the 2.5mm that they build roll cages out of, and on par with what literally the entire body of the van is made of, including the battery mounts.

According to the stress tests, I'm going to tear the battery mounts off before I break the frame (and before I hit the ADR compliance rules for how strong the frame needs to be, but I get a pass here as the battery is build like that from Nissan, I haven't modified it, so it's the weak point and it's not my problem)

As for the battery being in there, the ONLY things that need to be removed are the axle, wheels, shocks and suspension and the battery drops out.

Realistically this is 2 shock bolts, 2 hydraulic lines, the handbrake cable, and the 4 suspension bolts and the whole axle assembly with suspension can roll clear, then I can pull the battery for servicing. Something it likely will never need, but I don't plan for the "Never"

Finally, all nuts on the battery mounts are captive M12 nuts with a 19mm head that will be welded in place to hold everything together. That way I only have to fiddle with one end of the bolt, not both and I'm not doing something up blind.

All in all, happy with how this turned out, now just to send this off and wait for the fabricator to call me with how much this is gonna hurt my wallet.
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
So I've also worked out that I'm going to be around 980kg once done, better than the 1,595kg the van was.

Or around 40% lighter.

Given the van had originally a 190km range, hopefully this means I gain ~20% on the range....

Or around 230km range!
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
So today I got the battery moved, took me about an hour of faffing around to get it moved. What I thought would be a nice easy tow into its new home with the mower turned out to be a lot more of a pain.

Here's a video!

 
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