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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all howdy! I'm sure I'm gonna drive someone nuts but I've been pinballing ideas in my head with my 88 suzuki converting it to ev since I made a very close to scale accurate replica of it in 1/10th scale for rc crawling and possibly watching to much rich rebuilds...

So I've got a near bone stock 88 suzuki samurai 4x4 and for a bit I've been wondering how the heck could I convert this to electric.
Luckily I already found that there is a transmission plate for a b face warp style motors that works to replace the G13 family engines which is shared between the geo metro 1.3 and the suzuki samurai sj413.
So with that part figured out the next was the motor... now I could just do things the easy way an slap a warp9 but I would prefer something brushless from my experience with them in the smaller rc car scale.

Then with a few blue print drawings and a 1/10th scale model of the frame I started to figure out battery locations... and well my replica I actually put the batteries where the fuel tank went so looking at batteries... Tesla batteries fitted dimentionally between the frame rails at the rear but.... how the heck would I make a battery box that was sturdy enough to survive being skidded on rocks if god helps me that happened or would break away safely from the body in a rear collision and pop its HV cables without turning into a bomb...not to mention be happy with partial or full submersion (more on water later possibly)

I'm also a crazy person and want to try an cram more Kwh in batteries then a smart ED while trying to keep the car under 2200lbs...

Thats when I stumbled on a video of a even crazier man called rich putting a electric motorcycles guts into a Tbucket... scratching my head at how the motor didn't let the magic smoke out I started to do a little digging an realized that dinky zero SR motor he was using put more power out then even a popular 1.6L 16v gas engine thats popular to swap into suzuki samurais...

After doing a little more digging and emailing zero and waiting a few weeks I got basic diagram measurements of the batteries and controller and thats when things went down the rabbit hole....

The batteries in the older zero SR's... are roughly the same LxWxH as the 15 gallon tank I currently have from petrolworks.. so I'd just have to set one on its side in the back with a thick steel skid plate to keep it happy back there. Oh and the packs are also water resistant o.o!? woohoo!
After getting the diagram for the motor as well I realized I could put another zero 14Kwh pack in the front standing in the same place as the stock engine so... I'd have a combined capacity of roughly 28Kwh.
Oh I also was able to get the weights of these parts and to my surprise... from stock weight to this I'd gain a little less weight then a 1.6L swap with a 15gallon tank upgrade o.o!!

I also found some basic motor specs and least the Z force motor I was looking at thats from a SR would have similar motor max revs as the G13B thats currently in my car but with 70HP and 140ft lbs of torque which is holy @)(%& I'm gonna blow up ujoints if I ran that motor at full power.

Ok thats enough rambling for now I have another musing of gutting a full smart ED and putting the engine/trans in place where my transfercase is but that smarts trans drive ratio is way to deep to get happy wheel speeds @[email protected]

I really need more or less help focusing on what to plan for down the line for a conversion as designing bits an pieces to make it all fit wouldn't be hard for me its more of wanting to go with a whole package so I don't have to frankenstien fire hazrad built some HV electrical system I can't trust being on stand bye when i'm sleeping at night or shocking everyone in my suzuki club when I go into a deepish stream....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh thats a given but there even occasional accidents of electrocution with boats so figuring out HV wiring that won't let the hate out when wet is something to look at for anything 4x4
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
looks pretty tame compared to potassium but still a goal for a battery pack design to me is something that can be water tight or about as water tight as a offroad ev pack can be I'm not looking to drive up to my doors in water but if one pack is in the fuel tank area its gonna need to be fairly water resistant or tight...

actually... how conductive is marine grease... no that might end up making the pack heavier if you pumped it full till the grease leaked out

Zero has mentioned on their earlier pack they dropped it in a lake in one of their videos an they pulled it out and it was still dry inside so thats pretty impressive...
Honestly I shouldn't look at zero cause of costs but that might go down with their recent partnership with polaris which lets be honest... side by sides get in some wet situations where a snorkel is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Not like the actual lithium or sodium in batteries are exposed there not mason jar batteries.

I have been wondering about two things.

Has anyone thought about using a whole leaf or smart ev transmission instead of using a transfer case?
Smarts transmission ratio I think is 8:1 ish and that be perfectly fine off road but I'm not sure what highway top speed be with 28" tires and the stock 3.73 axle ratio

Though similar thought about the leaf putting the motor in the middle and just run the samurai in awd.

The awd thought is more to split the load to both front and rear axles and also hopefully making the car a bit easier to control with the torque increase

The next thing is wondering.. Could you in theory split a existing ev pack in half and have one half in the front and one in the back while still keeping the original bms and other circuits happily interconnected
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well did a bit of measuring that I can while still having all the ice goodness inside aaaaand... yep can't fit tesla modules down low under the hood and 4 would fit in the back buuut I'd need to have a beefy skid plate under the battery box and loose about 2" of clearance on the rear where the current 15 gallon fuel tank is...

Kicker is an it kinda annoys me some is.... zero packs still fit can fit one up front to the point it could be hooked into the stock motor mount points on the frame with room for a 75-7 or 75-10 attached to the transmission WHILE keeping the ac components and stock samurai radiator mostly in their stock locations (ac comp would need to be replaced with either a ev one or be ran with a large enough brushless skateboard motor at 3cell voltage) AND have a second pack where the fuel tank is with room to spare to put a heavy duty rear skid/rear collision guard
Though I think I heard the BMS on the zero's can be a pita....

Leaf packs are the worst for trying to cram as much battery as possible while trying to eyeball for a splash proof battery case.

couple of eyeballin photos with using my 1/10th scale replica model which should be at 1:1 only be a inch or two off on frame width and body inner structure based off the hardbodies aluminum samurai replacement tub.

(axle housings are not proper to scale replicas, their housings for the rc variant and suspension is roughly based on the rocky road samurai lift kit)




front box area is 48cm tall x 58.8cm wide x 43cm deep

rear box is 32.38cm tall x 76.2cm wide x 38.10 cm deep
(can be haggled if a lift kit is added to give some more room or a rear brake line relocation on the axle housing or a body lift)

I know it sounds odd but really looking at trying to just get around the hp rating of the suzuki 1.6 and a bit more torque and thats a bit of a tricky bill to find cause I'm really looking at a max of 100kw for a motor but trying to squeezing 15-20kwh of battery without giving up a inch on the already diminutive interior space a samurai has
 
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