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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all!
According to Plamenator from Kostov, my motor and controller should ship next week so starting a build thread is in order.
This is my first build and i have decided to convert a Range Rover ym 92.
There is good place for all needed components (exept motor) and working under car is easy.My donor is a two door diesel model with hd springs and manual transmission.
My motor is Kostov dual 11" with Soliton1 controller. I have an extra zf 4spd automatic that i will use. That way i can use same adapter and coupler to other cars (BMW,Jaguar) as well. I will keep tc for now, it will removed later if necessary.Trans does not have computer,it´s light, simple and strong.
I have not ordered batteries yet, but would use 85xTS 160 if budget allows.That would give me reasonable range and with opportunity charging at work they should last for a long time.I might have to start with smaller pack but i will worry about that when motor is in place.
Range Rover is on a bit heavy side but i have a few spots on my mind where weight can be taken out.This will be mostly done after car is converted.
Since this is my first try on this subject i might find that things do not go my way, plan will then be adjusted and hopefully finished without too many delays. I expect to have car assembled in couple of months from motors arrival. Adapter and coupler come from Kostov. I made the drawings, big question mark there:p.
I will keep you posted and hope to get assistance when i hit the wall:eek:.
Greetings, Harri
 

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85 TS160's ???? Ouch :eek:

Are you building a school bus? :)

It would take lots of room and add lots of weight to an already heavy car. Are there any hills in your commute?

Don't forget to keep them warm, which would take even more room for insulation and heating elements.

DUAL 11" Kostov???? Ouch again :eek:

Are you planning to tow other cars with it? :)

Sorry for poking fun , just seems a bit out there, maybe I missed intended use of the car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, it´s a heavy car, needs a lot of batteries to run and motors are so cheap (similar gas engine).I figured that bigger is better! Might have been wrong, it´s a tight fit :D.
Harri
 

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My motor is Kostov dual 11" with Soliton1 controller.
Good choices! :D


I have not ordered batteries yet, but would use 85xTS 160 if budget allows.
I would consider less cells but of a larger Ah size... say 68 of the 200Ah... because they will be able to deliver a higher current safely and you won't be anywhere near the voltage limit of the Soliton1 (which, with 85 cells, you would if you charged them to more than 4,0V each). I think the new 200Ah cells are about the same size as the old 160Ah cells, anyway.

Also, while it is widely known that a motor wound for a higher voltage and lower current is more efficient, it does not seem to be widely known that switching losses in an IGBT-based PWM controller go up exponentially with voltage but only linearly with current, or the exact opposite case, so there is a trade-off between the two. Of course, too low of a pack voltage requires huge currents from the batteries more often (just ask dimitri!). A happy medium for LFP and the Soliton1 seems be a pack voltage in the range of 60 to 75 cells.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Tesseract.
I have limited knowledge of voltage and amperage connections, i will adjust my pack as advised (when i get that far).
BTW motor was ordered when plan was to convert 750L Beamer. Same weight with less electronics chanced my mind to try Rangie first.
Harri
 

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BTW motor was ordered when plan was to convert 750L Beamer. Same weight with less electronics chanced my mind to try Rangie first.
Harri
Ah, Plamen informed me about your project a while ago and told that you may need help with the motor coupler and adapter.

This will be a great EV! Have fun building it!

Btw. Just to get a feeling for the adapter parts, here is how the parts for my BMW look like:











 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the pictures, Crodriver. Looks very OEM:)
I had difficulties understanding taperlock assembly, but after some googling i found suitable construction and local industrial parts seller for measurements. Pictures will follow when i have parts in my hands.
 

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Thanks for the pictures, Crodriver. Looks very OEM:)
I had difficulties understanding taperlock assembly, but after some googling i found suitable construction and local industrial parts seller for measurements. Pictures will follow when i have parts in my hands.
You know that the taperlock has to be heatet up and pressed onto the motor output shaft?

From now on I'm using spindled shafts because it's easier (and more precise) to make adapter parts

The dual motor has a high torque potential in combination with that many lithium batteries and a Soltion. The physical parts have to handle a lot torque so they have to be made very precise. Keep an eye on that. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi all.
I just received pictures of my motor prior shipping from Kostov. Will post one here since someone mentioned that pics are worth a long post:)
For CroDriver: My bolt-on taperlock should hold 1300Nm, might cope with mildly spirited driving. This will of course be seen later.Or not.
Old engine pic for comparison:eek:
Harri
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi again!
I have been making progress all the time but since my pictures are in wifes camera, story sometimes delays.
Engine,transmission and transaxle are removed.So are fuel tank and cooling components.Chassis and engine bay are not cleaned yet and there are still some ice related brackets to be shaved off.
Big news is that motor and controller have arrived yesterday! Thanks Plamen!
Adapter plates and coupling seem to be perfect, taperlock was ordered a month ago and is 400km from here,in Finland, still not arrived:mad:
When taperlock is in my hands i will align motor with autotransmission. It is done differently than with manuals.I will show details when possible.
Some pictures are attached and i hope to make good leap ahead this week, should be able to use one full day on Range project.
Harri
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi all,
Time for a little update.
I got a wrong taperlock from first distributor. Since aligning had to wait i decided to trial fit motor and transmission.
I had a lot of trouble with making holes and threads. I decided to use handtools and it was really bad decision. When i had struggled for couple days i finally moved bench drill from my woodshop. It was a pain to carry but made everything much easier.
When motor was in engine bay it was not straight. I had taken a BMW bellhousing! I was wondering why it looked so huge:confused:I thought about swapping to Rovers but because Beamers is bolted 360degrees and Rover did not have lover part i figured to just rotate it to get motor in position. It was ofcourse only a matter of looks, but wanted to do it so i wouldn´t have to answer questions about it.
Took two days.
Kostov has bars running on both sides and i made brackets from there to original motor bushes. I have location now and weld and finish them when motor is out.
Taperlock from other seller came from Sweden in few days and i took motor assembly out.
When i was beginning alingment i found out that hole in adapter plates is too small for torque converter. I did not measure it when making drawings i think:mad:.
After six hours on angle grinder hole is now ok.Should have drilled a line of holes and cleaned that up, would have saved hours.
And broke thread cutting tool to one coupler bolt hole. Four hours on mini-grinder.
Coupler is now bolted and torque converter is running true. Tried different positions to find best one.
Started to center bellhousing to adapter. Needs more drilling and i have to make triangular fine adjustment system to get it right.
I have done horrible amount of work because not thinking and it seems that i have forgotten everthing i learned when i was customizing cars in my youth. I really hope that i have now found the right mental state to start making progress, not mistakes.
I still have my first car. Guess the make and model:)
Regards, Harri
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good news at last, first electric drive today! After much small difficulties like leaking trans, wrong measurements and such Rangie was driven out for first time since 20.th of may.Three starter batteries and start cables were able to give first sign of ev grin. Some small adjustment to mounts and then to electric installations:D
Harri
 

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Harri,

Please don't take what I'm about to say the wrong way. I like your conversion, and it's progressing nicely. I thought for sure you wouldn't fit that double-kostov in the engine bay, and it looks like it just barely fits.

But here is my issue. Torque Converter? Seriously?

By the time you've acheived enough RPM to engage the TC, you're outside the range where a series DC motor makes its maximum torque, and adding inefficiency to the system.

If I read earlier posts correctly, you were looking for the most efficient ways to move this beast...

The purpose of the torque converter is two-fold: 1) It keeps an ICE from stalling at a stop, and 2) It allows the ICE to rev over idle to a point where it starts making torque.

A series DC motor *should* stall at a stop, because of no voltage/current to the motor, and it *should* be permitted to start under load, because maximum torque comes from 0 RPM.

Go ahead and drive it around once it's all finished, but please do consider taking the effort to remove the TC and see what the difference is in the behavior of the vehicle. You'll probably be pleasantly surprised. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi Tx_Dj,
efficiency is not very high on my list, just see the donor:eek:.
I am aware of downside of tc but will try trans as it is. I may or may not idle motor and tc can be taken out if it causes trouble.
On test drive without controller car moved slowly with 24volts, i would say that rews were not much different from ice on idle. With ice tc had a stall speed of under 2000rpms. My driving is mostly on highway so it may not be a problem.
When trans leaked i looked at five speed manual i have and it is easy swap if autobox will not do what it should.Later model zf is controlled by electronics and should be good for no tc use but i dont have any of those.
Harri
 

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Wow. This thing is HUGE! I really like the project. That would be my suggestion to just use the trans with the TC as it sits and if it works for you then it works for you. If not It won't be that hard to swap it out or just take the TC out of the setup.

Cheers!
 

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Hi
Recommend you do not try running the trans with out a converter as it need it to pass the fluid thru it and back into the trans. Send converter to TCI Racing transmission PH 888 776 9824 and have them lock it out. They will cut it open and weld it so it dose not work but fluid will come out of the trans and go thru the converter and back into the transmission.

http://www.discbrakesrus.com/make/fordtruck/electriccar.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Heips all!
Just a little update, photos will follow in future.
I have got to the point that i am not repairing and dismantling thins but actually starting to ge things on their places for good.
i just paid the shipping for my batteries,68 200Ah TS, so i try to assemble cables, fuses, contactor and controller before truck is here.
I have painted the motorbay(?) and will bend remaining parts for shielding and mounting ev components so that they are safe from road dust and water.
Toddshotrod build has given me some ideas how i could add some advanced engieering to my build, so i will cnc-machine some parts to get away from "use what you have" look. Allthough that is what i have done so far:)
I do not know if i should go for H.R Giger Alien look or make natural forms in spirit of Range Rover on the wild. Would not like to do just a bracket for mounting something.
I`ll add pictures when i get them to my computer.
Harri
Ps. Nobody guessing on the link of my first car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Hi all!
Batteries arrived from GWL Power friday but very little has been done since last update.I have been busy elsewhere and now got a nasty flu:(
I have figured out battery placements and other component locations. I will order cables and accessories when i am well enough. While gaining my strenght i try to do first charge on batteries, i will then be ready to test drive when all is connected.
I decided not to make battery boxes around car, but to install all to back of the car and fuel tank box.When i get car inspected and moving i can design more balanced placement for them. But i must admit that i was supriced how much batteries i had bought:eek:.
I can really understand why people want to use small cells for bigger packs, these chunks are quite hard to fit. I`ll get one too when i can afford it.
Sorry pictures come later again.......
Regards, Harri
 
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