Re: [EVDL] Battery post melted. But not the weak battery the strong onenext to it.
Hello Lawrence,
A new battery that has only 10 miles on it could melt the post. This is =
normally call shrink back of lead post which melts the surface of the lead =
post.
Back in 76 when I pick up my EV, the battery engineer said when you install =
new batteries and links, torque them to the recommended torque =
specifications listed by the manufacture. In my case it was 95 inch lbs fo=
r =
a stud type post and 75 inch lbs for a zinc plated copper battery clamp on =
lead posts.
This torque value will only last about 5 miles on a lead post. After =
driving 5 miles, it is common to lose 5 inch lbs. Then re-torque again. =
Then drive 10 miles and do it again and you see it only looses about 2 inch =
lbs. Drive 20 miles and check them again. If you are now only losing 1 =
in.lb. or less than you can check them every 100 miles.
Another method I use after the first initial torque, is doing a battery lin=
k =
shunt test which can be done instead of using the torque wrench after the =
initial torque.
The battery link shunt test, involves connecting a multi-meter in parallel =
with the battery link using the milliampere scale. Do not connected to the =
link ends, but connect the leads directly to the lead post or lead pad.
Next, you turn on the charger to 5 amps and record the ampere value of each =
link connections on your battery log sheet. A ampere reading may be about =
0.001 amps for a good connection. Check each link and if you see a ampere =
reading higher than the lowest reading, then tighten the link connection =
until it as close to the lowest reading one.
Using this method, it only takes me about 15 minutes to do the test on 30 =
batteries about once a month.
Note: To do this test, you leave on the charger, so the following safety =
requirements should be done:
When I do this shunt test, I use a standard ratchet wrench that I cover the =
handle with a thick heavy duty glue type heat shrink. I cover the batteries =
that I am not testing with several sheets of neoprene rubber sheeting. I =
work from the center of the pack to the edge slipping the rubber sheeting t=
o =
expose the next battery I am working on. I also lap over the rubber sheetin=
g =
over any metal body parts.
If you are not wearing lineman boots, then it best to stand on a rubber mat.
Roland
----- Original Message ----- =
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2010 10:38 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Battery post melted. But not the weak battery the strong =
onenext to it.
Lets have some fun. It's damp out and about 60=B0F. I just took my daught=
er =
to school and a Mercedes sport coupe is approaching from the rear as we go =
up a hill to my house. I had just pulled into the road ahead of him and I =
wouldn't want to slow him down but he had already changed lanes to pass my =
poor little underpowered(he he) Ford Aspire. I shifted into second and put =
the pedal to the metal expecting to take off like a scalded cat. It was =
great for about one second. Unfortunately I heard a pop and the voltage =
meter went to zero. Rats. I parked the car not able to coast to the crest =
of the hill and go home on gravity drive. Measured all the batteries and =
one was 11.4v and the one next to it was 4.5v. Walk home to get tools and =
a =
jumper. When I got back and took off the cover for the rear batteries I =
found the 4.5v battery had melted its post. I stuck my meter into the hole =
that was left of the post and it measured 12.9vdc. The weak battery
was neg. to the pos of the good but the melted battery post was on the neg =
side(other) of the good battery. It was connected to a sturdy 1/4 inch =
thick buss bar to the next good battery. Why would the post on the opposit=
e =
side of the good battery away from the bad battery take the hit. Shouldn't =
the post on the bad battery go first. I always thought that the lowest =
battery was the one to eat it. All the other batteries measured 12.8 to =
13vdc. I jummpered out the bad battery and drove home. Tail between legs. =
Lawrence Rhodes..
_______________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
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| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
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Hello Lawrence,
A new battery that has only 10 miles on it could melt the post. This is =
normally call shrink back of lead post which melts the surface of the lead =
post.
Back in 76 when I pick up my EV, the battery engineer said when you install =
new batteries and links, torque them to the recommended torque =
specifications listed by the manufacture. In my case it was 95 inch lbs fo=
r =
a stud type post and 75 inch lbs for a zinc plated copper battery clamp on =
lead posts.
This torque value will only last about 5 miles on a lead post. After =
driving 5 miles, it is common to lose 5 inch lbs. Then re-torque again. =
Then drive 10 miles and do it again and you see it only looses about 2 inch =
lbs. Drive 20 miles and check them again. If you are now only losing 1 =
in.lb. or less than you can check them every 100 miles.
Another method I use after the first initial torque, is doing a battery lin=
k =
shunt test which can be done instead of using the torque wrench after the =
initial torque.
The battery link shunt test, involves connecting a multi-meter in parallel =
with the battery link using the milliampere scale. Do not connected to the =
link ends, but connect the leads directly to the lead post or lead pad.
Next, you turn on the charger to 5 amps and record the ampere value of each =
link connections on your battery log sheet. A ampere reading may be about =
0.001 amps for a good connection. Check each link and if you see a ampere =
reading higher than the lowest reading, then tighten the link connection =
until it as close to the lowest reading one.
Using this method, it only takes me about 15 minutes to do the test on 30 =
batteries about once a month.
Note: To do this test, you leave on the charger, so the following safety =
requirements should be done:
When I do this shunt test, I use a standard ratchet wrench that I cover the =
handle with a thick heavy duty glue type heat shrink. I cover the batteries =
that I am not testing with several sheets of neoprene rubber sheeting. I =
work from the center of the pack to the edge slipping the rubber sheeting t=
o =
expose the next battery I am working on. I also lap over the rubber sheetin=
g =
over any metal body parts.
If you are not wearing lineman boots, then it best to stand on a rubber mat.
Roland
----- Original Message ----- =
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2010 10:38 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Battery post melted. But not the weak battery the strong =
onenext to it.
Lets have some fun. It's damp out and about 60=B0F. I just took my daught=
er =
to school and a Mercedes sport coupe is approaching from the rear as we go =
up a hill to my house. I had just pulled into the road ahead of him and I =
wouldn't want to slow him down but he had already changed lanes to pass my =
poor little underpowered(he he) Ford Aspire. I shifted into second and put =
the pedal to the metal expecting to take off like a scalded cat. It was =
great for about one second. Unfortunately I heard a pop and the voltage =
meter went to zero. Rats. I parked the car not able to coast to the crest =
of the hill and go home on gravity drive. Measured all the batteries and =
one was 11.4v and the one next to it was 4.5v. Walk home to get tools and =
a =
jumper. When I got back and took off the cover for the rear batteries I =
found the 4.5v battery had melted its post. I stuck my meter into the hole =
that was left of the post and it measured 12.9vdc. The weak battery
was neg. to the pos of the good but the melted battery post was on the neg =
side(other) of the good battery. It was connected to a sturdy 1/4 inch =
thick buss bar to the next good battery. Why would the post on the opposit=
e =
side of the good battery away from the bad battery take the hit. Shouldn't =
the post on the bad battery go first. I always thought that the lowest =
battery was the one to eat it. All the other batteries measured 12.8 to =
13vdc. I jummpered out the bad battery and drove home. Tail between legs. =
Lawrence Rhodes..
_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev =
_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
