Re: [EVDL] Curtis controller voltage questions
Hi Doug,
thanks a lot for the writeup. You are right I do not have the
application notes for the 1221R. I managed to get a connection diagram
from Carlos but thats all I got. Curtis was unable to provide me with
any information last year when I talked to them on the phone etc.
Anyhow, this info is great. I yet have to find the place where the pots
are. One end of my 1221R is just a piece of flat metal, with a sticker
indicating the technical specs, the other has the power lugs and an
adapter for the pots (one throttle, one regen) and the control wires for
the contactors and key switch. Mine is the 12V control side version.
I have not yet removed the controller from the car. are the pots on the
bottom of the controller where it is mounted to the heat sink?
The info you gave lets me feel more confident that I can try to up the
voltage a bit. I will try it in 12V steps and hope the overvoltage
protection kicks in before something breaks. I have been driving at 90V
nominal which is about 100V with full batteries and 104V during charging
(I have old gel cells that I charge only to 2.31V/Cell instead of the
2.35 that is recommended for new batteries of this type.) It looks like
my regen voltage is set to 105V as this is the peak I see when breaking
at slightly higher speeds (up to 150A).
I will let you know what I find out and if I end up blowing up my curtis
or if it will work with 120V during accelleration and 90V during regular
driving and breaking.
Markus
------
It sounds like you don't have the "Application notes" manual for the 1221R
controller. According to the manual, there are 1221R models at 36, 48, 60,
72, 84, 96, 108 and 120V, shown in a table of spec values. There are made
in 2 versions: 12V isolated and non-isolated that use the battery pack
voltage for control and and contactor coils. The "overvoltage point" is
listed as 159V for all the models from 84V to 120V, possibly because they
all have 160V rated capacitors. It may be that the only difference between
84V to 120V models is the fixed resistor value used to set the range of
adjustment of the regen charging voltage. That charging range is shown as
92-105V for the 84V model.
The 1221R has 4 externally adjustable pots: Charging voltage adjustment is
on one side and the regen current, current limit and acceleration pots are
on the other side. You can wire a remotely located pot for manual or brake
pedal activated control of the maximum regen current.
>> >> 84v is an unusual nominal voltage; was your controller specially
built
>> >> for some OEM that wanted this voltage?
84V is a common fork lift battery pack voltage in Europe, and was used for
the electric version of Skoda Favorit cars (that came with an SCR type
regen
controller).
Best Regards,
Doug
_______________________________________________
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Hi Doug,
thanks a lot for the writeup. You are right I do not have the
application notes for the 1221R. I managed to get a connection diagram
from Carlos but thats all I got. Curtis was unable to provide me with
any information last year when I talked to them on the phone etc.
Anyhow, this info is great. I yet have to find the place where the pots
are. One end of my 1221R is just a piece of flat metal, with a sticker
indicating the technical specs, the other has the power lugs and an
adapter for the pots (one throttle, one regen) and the control wires for
the contactors and key switch. Mine is the 12V control side version.
I have not yet removed the controller from the car. are the pots on the
bottom of the controller where it is mounted to the heat sink?
The info you gave lets me feel more confident that I can try to up the
voltage a bit. I will try it in 12V steps and hope the overvoltage
protection kicks in before something breaks. I have been driving at 90V
nominal which is about 100V with full batteries and 104V during charging
(I have old gel cells that I charge only to 2.31V/Cell instead of the
2.35 that is recommended for new batteries of this type.) It looks like
my regen voltage is set to 105V as this is the peak I see when breaking
at slightly higher speeds (up to 150A).
I will let you know what I find out and if I end up blowing up my curtis
or if it will work with 120V during accelleration and 90V during regular
driving and breaking.
Markus
------
It sounds like you don't have the "Application notes" manual for the 1221R
controller. According to the manual, there are 1221R models at 36, 48, 60,
72, 84, 96, 108 and 120V, shown in a table of spec values. There are made
in 2 versions: 12V isolated and non-isolated that use the battery pack
voltage for control and and contactor coils. The "overvoltage point" is
listed as 159V for all the models from 84V to 120V, possibly because they
all have 160V rated capacitors. It may be that the only difference between
84V to 120V models is the fixed resistor value used to set the range of
adjustment of the regen charging voltage. That charging range is shown as
92-105V for the 84V model.
The 1221R has 4 externally adjustable pots: Charging voltage adjustment is
on one side and the regen current, current limit and acceleration pots are
on the other side. You can wire a remotely located pot for manual or brake
pedal activated control of the maximum regen current.
>> >> 84v is an unusual nominal voltage; was your controller specially
built
>> >> for some OEM that wanted this voltage?
84V is a common fork lift battery pack voltage in Europe, and was used for
the electric version of Skoda Favorit cars (that came with an SCR type
regen
controller).
Best Regards,
Doug
_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev