Roland Wiench wrote:
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Hunter Cook" <[email protected]
> > To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:49 AM
> > Subject: Re: [EVDL] Modified K&W BC-20 questions
> > > Roland-
> > >
> > > Very interesting history there...basically just shows that for at
> > > least
> > > the last 30 years you've been a lot harder core than me. Not that any
> > > more proof was necessary ;-)
> > >
> > > My batteries do not look "super clean." I suppose it's time I tested
> > > for
> > > leakage. But the first thing on my mind today is what to do about my
> > > burned up primary input connections on the boost transformer.
> > >
> > > Thanks again for all your help,
> > >
> > > Hunter
> > Hello Hunter,
> > If the primary input leads go's directly into the transformer windings
> > and
> > the insulation is brittle or gone, you could remove the transformer and
> > take
> > it to a motor shop. It may be as simple as re-enameling the core, if
> > the
> > transformer test out ok.
> > If the transformer is a one winding core, then they have a winding
> > machine
> > that counts the number of windings as it is remove from the core, and
> > than
> > winds new wire on the core. Takes less than 30 minutes to do.
> > If the leads terminate to a bolt in transformer tab, then you can
> > replace
> > these leads with some good high temperature motor leads, that I normally
> > get
> > from a motor shop. This type of wire is fine multi strand wire. A No 10
> > AWG
> > may be 52 strand with a 105 C rating or more.
> > Use a non-insulated solid wire terminal and heat shrink. Sometimes, I
> > had
> > transformers or motor leads insulation burn off, and I was able to
> > insulated
> > with a 3M high temperature glass tape by wrapping the wire twice half
> > lapping the tape. This makes four layers.
> > If the lead wire has no terminal points and the copper wire itself looks
> > brittle, sometimes I could cut the wires leaving about 1 inch from the
> > windings and use a non-insulated solid wire inline splice to a flexible
> > motor lead wire and heat shrink and glass wrap that connection.
> > I also spray all these transformer connections with motor enamel spray
> > you
> > can also get from a motor shop. Its not the bake on type.
> > If you ever brake down a DC brush type motor, which I do about every ten
> > years, for cleaning, inspecting or replacing the brushes, I use this
> > spray
> > on motor enamel to recoat all the field windings, the front of the
> > commentator down to the motor shaft and the motor shaft up to the
> > bearing
> > surfaces.
> > When a motor is brand new and never been run, I record the ohm values of
> > the
> > motor terminals to the motor frame which should read over 20 meg ohms.
> > The
> > commentator windings to the field windings (with the jumpers remove,
> > should
> > also read over 20 meg ohms.
> > As time goes on, the brush dust inside the motor will increase the
> > conductance and it may get down to 50 k ohms or less which you may get
> > arc
> > over. The its time to clean the motor. Enameling these areas on the
> > commentator and motor shaft has increase resistance which allow the
> > motor to
> > go over 15 years with no brush replacements.
> > Roland
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