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Re: [EVDL] Pics of inside of problem DCP 450 controller -needschematic, manuals,

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Re: [EVDL] Pics of inside of problem DCP 450 controller -needschematic, manuals,

Bob -

I was able to eliminate the creep mode by hard wiring a 12 volt 450 milliamp
fan into the 12 volt that powers the contactor relay. This way, whenever
the vehicle key was turned to ON, the fan for the controller was ON. Now,
for the nifty part - instead of cracking the controller open (which is what
is required to replace the fan), I used aluminum duct tape and taped the 12
volt fan outside of the case, right in front of the fan (actually, when you
crack the case, it is a 24 volt, 450 milliamp fan). I covered the entire
fan w/ the al duct tape, then carefully cut a hold to unobscure the fan
blades - but be careful, as the duct tape glue is fairly strong, and could
conceivably tear up your fan if you are not careful when you remove it.

This is a link describing the EXACT fan that is in my DCP 450:

The DCP fan before the operation:


Again, considering the havoc this little design flaw wreaks on controller
(burns up/dries out the caps) and the inconvenience, I say just leave the
fan hard-wired to the contactor. Surely the controller cannot get TOO

Let me know how you make out. My only concern is that the air flow from the
12 volt fan be nearly equivalent to the 24 volt fan (HDF1238L-24HHB) that is
in the controller - from the link I gave above, the stock 24 volt fan should
push 115 CFM (cubic feet per minute).

When I DO put my controller back together, I plan to mount the fan on the
OUTSIDE of the controller - it doesn't look as clean, but at LEAST it will
be easy to replace!!!! Remember that, at least on mine, the fan is sucking
air INTO the controller and pushing it across the heat sink fins and out the
other side.

Peter also mentioned that there is room for additional capacitors on the
board (my board has 8 caps mounted on it, but there appears to be room for 7
more). My father, who is pretty swift w/ electronics, says that more caps
will smooth out the voltage that the motor sees, which is better. I'll let
you know what I get out of Mr. Senkowsky.

Whew...I'm tuckered out.....


From: "Bob Rice" <[email protected]>
Reply-To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Pics of inside of problem DCP 450 controller
-needschematic, manuals, etc...
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2007 10:26:59 -0400

----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Mohlere" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 4:45 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Pics of inside of problem DCP 450 controller -
needschematic, manuals, etc...

> Anyone have any of the subject literature? The cooling fan on mine does
> not
> work most of the time (forcing the EV into creep mode when it gets hot),
> HOWEVER, when I cracked it open and hard wired the fan to 24 vdc, it
> worked
> like a next thought is that the temp. sensor may be bad, but I
> do
> not know where the temp sensor is, what it looks like, or how it works.
> The
> capacitors definitely need replacing - one of them just rocks in place
> when
> you give it a nudge.
> Just acquired this EV and would like to take advantage of some of the
> other
> features of this controller.
> The red and black cut wires connect to the 24vdc cooling fan.
> Thanks, Mike
Hi Mike an' EVerybody;

Talk to Pete Senkowesky out in Clear lake CA He fixes Raptures, or
might have a few ideas? But ya would have to park the EV while it is on it's
CA trip, the controller, I mean.707-994-1972 or 707-350-0156. Is this Fan
thing contagious? I have the same issues with MY Rapture 450 amp job. With
the Phoenix like weathrer I brought home from Phoenix, but FAR more
oppressive with our humidity, I ran the Jetta about 40 miles and had the
heat cut back feature go into effect. But I weeded out two bum badd-eries,
so amps were high and voltage low, that didn't help!Two reversed cells.
Gees! Wish I could dig out the bum cell and change it with ANOTHER good cell
from another bum battery. Like you USED to in the good old tar seal daze.
Next day the fan ran when ya first key in, as it ALWAYS used to. A self
check thing? All Rapturs did/do that when they are happy.IF you get water
inside or even NEAR them ya get NOTHIN! Wish the controller biz could make
stuff like the Chinese Hai Bao car , of forgotten years past; You could hose
the whole engine/controller dept. out with a garden hose!

But don't get toooo picky, we are lucky to HAVE them, EVen though they
aren't built with places that have weather! Shitty ,damp, cold, drippy,
foggy WEATHER. Maybe as EV history drags on, we will see encapsalated
elecctronics so ya can hose EVerything down, a clean car is a happy car!As I
look out over 70 degreez, sunny weather, lawnmower calling me. Love the
smell of new mown hay!

To get back to the Rapture; I GUESS there is a heat sensor on that
ya pixed? HOW does the fan know to start?Is it on the heat sink?Where does
24 volts come from, to begin with?I THOUGHT the fan was 12 volts? Ran off
the Key feed?What used to amaze me with ALL the Raptures, I have had, is
that I could drive to work on the freeway , like LA, stop an' go traffic, in
90 degree weather and it be stone cold in arrival at work. Motor hot as
hell, but controller cool. After dealing with early SCR crap,oh say 35 years
ago, sevcon controllers that needed monster heat sinks, fans, the Rapters
were Raptures, they were COOL in more ways than one WITHOUT any radiaters,
pumps and hoses. I guess ya can use a Zilla for a NORMAL car the same way?Do
ya HAVE to have a cooling systen like on the Zombie?




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