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ouch, there might be someone here (or mynissanleaf) with the pinout handy, but you might be able to sort it out by examining what they plug into and/or some experimenting.

I think this is *just* enough info to figure it out fwiw, you might have to look inside a bms module to figure out the polarity/etc.
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=17470
I have them in an excel spreadsheet. Send me an email and I will attach (cant attach here)

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Thanks Cor. I was aware the BMS is voltage sensitive and that a switched wire would disable the BMS. I'm annoyed at myself for jumping the gun on cutting the harness before I really evaluated whether or not that was a good idea. So far everything has been a case of it's better to be lucky than smart.....
 

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Thanks Cor. I was aware the BMS is voltage sensitive and that a switched wire would disable the BMS. I'm annoyed at myself for jumping the gun on cutting the harness before I really evaluated whether or not that was a good idea. So far everything has been a case of it's better to be lucky than smart.....


In the event that you have one of those eff it moments, and figure it's not worth your time... http://m.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Leaf-B...3A5bbfd08f15c0a9e487527806fffcfad8%7Ciid%3A24

250 bucks... couple days at work?


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Thanks Cor. I was aware the BMS is voltage sensitive and that a switched wire would disable the BMS. I'm annoyed at myself for jumping the gun on cutting the harness before I really evaluated whether or not that was a good idea. So far everything has been a case of it's better to be lucky than smart.....
Just be aware that a switched sense wire does not *disable* the BMS, it will *smoke* the BMS. (as in: popping craters in the sense chips)
With the correct service manual (2011 and 2012 have all white connectors and are *not* compatible with the 2013+ BMS which has colored connectors. Even though the plugs fit, the pins are in different places = smoke guaranteed!) you should be able to figure all wires out by counting along the cells as well as the plugs (that is why it is good to have drawings of the plugs and schematics of the cell - LBC computer connections, with pin numbers.)
Success!
Cor.
 

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Just be aware that a switched sense wire does not *disable* the BMS, it will *smoke* the BMS. (as in: popping craters in the sense chips)
With the correct service manual (2011 and 2012 have all white connectors and are *not* compatible with the 2013+ BMS which has colored connectors. Even though the plugs fit, the pins are in different places = smoke guaranteed!) you should be able to figure all wires out by counting along the cells as well as the plugs (that is why it is good to have drawings of the plugs and schematics of the cell - LBC computer connections, with pin numbers.)
Success!
Cor.
10-4. Thank you again!
 

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HI All.
PDF attached of the leaf BMS pinouts.
Yes, the actual sense wire pinouts on the BMS appear to be the same between the old and new BMS (the other two plugs on the short side of the BMS, carrying the temp sensor connections (8 pin plug) and the other plug with the CAN communication and control signals are *not* compatible.

Also not compatible is the larger one of the two plugs to the two front packs that connects to the wiring loom to the BMS.
 

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ANybody planning to convert a car using a Leaf drivetrain?
I have a 2012 Leaf in great shape and someone local wants to buy the
battery and Airco off it, so then I would be left with a complete car, drivetrain, suspension and all - in case you are planning to convert, get in touch and see if we can work out a deal!
 

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HI All.
PDF attached of the leaf BMS pinouts.
Yes, the actual sense wire pinouts on the BMS appear to be the same between the old and new BMS (the other two plugs on the short side of the BMS, carrying the temp sensor connections (8 pin plug) and the other plug with the CANcommunication and control signals are *not* compatible.

Also not compatible is the larger one of the two plugs to the two front packs that connects to the wiring loom to the BMS.
So, I've tested and retested, the diagram has allowed me to find the correct wires to the BMS. This is my preliminary position for packs and relays.... I hope this meets with your approval. ;-)
 

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ANybody planning to convert a car using a Leaf drivetrain?
I have a 2012 Leaf in great shape and someone local wants to buy the
battery and Airco off it, so then I would be left with a complete car, drivetrain, suspension and all - in case you are planning to convert, get in touch and see if we can work out a deal!
Hi Cor
Stick your location on your control panel - its very helpful
 

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So, I've tested and retested, the diagram has allowed me to find the correct wires to the BMS. This is my preliminary position for packs and relays.... I hope this meets with your approval. ;-)
That looks pretty.
I plan to do the same (pack the two "saddle" packs into a single halfpack) but I will likely re-use the wiring of the saddle packs without cutting it, just wrapping excess wire lengths with electrical tape, the same I did with the 2 Leafs packs in my current EV truck.
I see you have newish (Gen 2) modules, they look the same as the 2015 and 2016 warranty replacement modules I have seen and quite different than the 2011 modules.
Anyhow - from looking at the photo it is not clear if the wiring is correct.
What does the BMS (LBC) tell when you plug it in?
Note that it is relatively simple to get a loose pack + BMS talking to LeafSpy, that is why LeafSpy has a "Model Year" selection of "BMS only".
Then take an ELM327, feed it 12V on the OBD port and also the BMS on the pins for battery+ and for Ignition and connect the two CAN bus lines from ELM327 to BMS and you are talking...
 

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That looks pretty.
I plan to do the same (pack the two "saddle" packs into a single halfpack) but I will likely re-use the wiring of the saddle packs without cutting it, just wrapping excess wire lengths with electrical tape, the same I did with the 2 Leafs packs in my current EV truck.
I see you have newish (Gen 2) modules, they look the same as the 2015 and 2016 warranty replacement modules I have seen and quite different than the 2011 modules.
Anyhow - from looking at the photo it is not clear if the wiring is correct.
What does the BMS (LBC) tell when you plug it in?
Note that it is relatively simple to get a loose pack + BMS talking to LeafSpy, that is why LeafSpy has a "Model Year" selection of "BMS only".
Then take an ELM327, feed it 12V on the OBD port and also the BMS on the pins for battery+ and for Ignition and connect the two CAN bus lines from ELM327 to BMS and you are talking...
I haven't plugged it all back in yet. I bought the second orange bus bar tray from Nissan and because I wanted it to look super symmetrical, I needed to shorten the wires.... I would have been better served pulling the pins out of the original connectors in the LB15 and LB16 and plugging in the appropriate pins from LB13 and LB14 harness. It would have been cleaner and less soldering. The BMS won't care because it will see the same thing it has always seen. I don't have leafspy or any special scanners or readers. Seat of the pants folks!!!!

James
 

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Note that it is relatively simple to get a loose pack + BMS talking to LeafSpy, that is why LeafSpy has a "Model Year" selection of "BMS only".
Then take an ELM327, feed it 12V on the OBD port and also the BMS on the pins for battery+ and for Ignition and connect the two CAN bus lines from ELM327 to BMS and you are talking...

Cor,

This is great info! This allows full BMS functionality? What about limiting the pack through the VCM? No need for this?

With the tremendous increase I have seen lately in people utilizing Leaf pack/BMS. This would make a great stick/wiki post if someone took the time to do a write up!
 

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I don't have leafspy or any special scanners or readers. Seat of the pants folks!!!!James
Hi James,
You are aware that LeafSpy is a free Android app?
You only need to buy (for a modest price) the iPhone or the Pro version,
in case you want to be able to clear DTCs in your Leaf.
But the free app will happily display your battery statistics (voltage of each cell, current, SoC and so on) by interrogating the BMS.
 

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Cor,
This is great info! This allows full BMS functionality? What about limiting the pack through the VCM? No need for this?
Hi Danny,
The BMS cannot limit anything, it only measures voltage and current and it will balance the cells 24/7 as long as it receives +12V on pin 5 (BAT) of the round connector, which is wired to pin 12 of the LB11 connector.
Also, all 96 pairs of cells need to be plugged in obviously.
The BMS will only communicate when there is 12V on either IGN (pin 4 round connector, pin 6 or 7 of LB11, for old/new BMS) or CHG IGN (Charging) which is located on pin 21 or 31 (old/new battery type), pin 5 of LB11.
If you want to protect the pack from over/under charge, it is not the BMS (LBC) you are looking at but either the VCM of the Leaf which will throttle current or in case the BMS is used outside the Leaf (as I have in my 1994 US Electricar truck) the controller of that vehicle and/or the operator need to keep an eye on the signals from the BMS. The BMS just reports what it sees how the pack is doing, it has no option to protect the pack because even the contactors that isolate the pack are controlled from outside the battery shell, that is why the 12V control signals for the contactor coils are on the round connector and not connected to the BMS. So the BMS can literally do nothing itself, just report what it sees and keep the cells balanced. External to the pack is the protection for slowing down and stopping when the battery is reported to be empty as well as control of the charging, again based on the BMS reports of how full and hot or cold the cells are.
Hope this clarifies.
Cor.
 

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I don't have leafspy or any special scanners or readers. Seat of the pants folks!!!!James
Hi James,
You are aware that LeafSpy is a free Android app?
You only need to buy (for a modest price) the iPhone or the Pro version,
in case you want to be able to clear DTCs in your Leaf.
But the free app will happily display your battery statistics (voltage of each cell, current, SoC and so on) by interrogating the BMS.
Nothing against leafspy. I'm just not far enough in the project. I've got a few more days of mock up on the battery box before I'll burn metal. Then I'll be ready to tear down the jeep. I have side work on Sprinter vans and doing some traveling this summer so progress has slowed.
 

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OK folks, As the OP wanted any Leaf related info, here goes. Some of you may know that I am putting a complete (as much as possible) Leaf system in my truck. I am still gathering suspension components and making a running subframe that will house the independent suspension and leaf motor so at the moment, I have no questions there.

As I am using a second leaf motor (most probably) as a generator to charge the batteries if I am away from power (which is often), I need to mate the RPM to the existing diesel ICE. I know, many of you are going to barf at the idea of a PHEV but it is necessary for me at this time.

Regardless, the ICE will run at roughly 1800-2000rpm and I would like to get 50kw or so into the batteries (Ideal conditions). First, I am only familiar with L2 charging so maybe 10kw input max. Can I put 50kw into the batteries directly (making a second set of contacts on the main bussbar) or is there a better way to do this? Also, I am left with the choice of using the gear reduction (ICE RPM may be too high for the motor) or not using it and I will get a reduced power output.

Any thoughts? I have looked for a proper power curve for the Leaf motor but find anything but that.

Mike
 
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