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Made our own...
Thanks for the illustration :) - although Leaf battery use is getting common and Leaf motor applications are often discussed, I had not seen any before in this forum.

It is remarkable how much that package looks like a short inline-cylinder engine, missing the manifolds. Of course the same is true in the Leaf (an EV version of the Versa), but it's even more apparent in this traditional orientation.
 

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skooler said:
We have done it several times now.
That's great. So no modifications whatsoever to the original Leaf electrical systems. As in the picture of the motor in the front engine bay.

Some countries have very strict regulations and any modification to the electric systems, for instance a control board swap,
means that the car has to go through the full admission procedure of which the cost can easily exceed €20.000.
Without mods, it is accepted as an already admitted system and the cost for the procedure is acceptable, €1000 to €2000.

A custom made coupler plate is not an issue if it has been made professionally and the paperwork is there to prove it.

But how about the battery pack? That's huge and not as straight forward to transplant as a inverter/motor combo.

BTW, very impressive workshop.:cool:
 

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That's great. So no modifications whatsoever to the original Leaf electrical systems. As in the picture of the motor in the front engine bay.
Mike has listed the components required for a minimum system (here) which afaik is still up to date. Personally I found working with Leaf components simple and well documented, but given the choice I much prefer open source because it's possible to support and modify the hardware indefinitely :cool:
 

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This guy demonstrates a transplant to a peg board. Who knew it could be this easy?;):cool:

https://ca.finance.yahoo.com/news/n...owled-displayed-pegboard-video-130004857.html

The cable between the battery pack and the motor seems a bit short, but I don't think that replacing it with a 1 meter longer cable with the same or better specs will be an issue for approval.
How critical is such a longer cable? Might be 0.5 uH extra. May not seem much, but at 200A?

P.S.
Thanks for the link:
Mike has listed the components required for a minimum system (here)
It lists re-assembly of the pack. That's out of the question. Won't comply with the admission regulations for a simplified procedure.
 

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Made our own. Its simply 5 pieces of 15mm laser cut aluminium.


Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
Looking good! What are your components, in addition to the laser cut plates, to adapt to the gearbox? Automatic or manual ? If manual, did you retain the clutch? Pictures would be great.
 

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Definitely. The Leaf motor/inverter assembly is a nice compact unit that will fit almost any engine bay. And more pictures of dash mods etc. please.

I'd like to convert a Renault Espace or some sort of MPV/van that can be fitted with a lift for a wheelchair.

Taking a route via another EU country to get a street legal car is too much trouble for me, so it looks like I'll be the owner of a Leaf this year or next year.:)

And I definitely need the steering wheel on the right side of the car. ;)
 

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Hi all!

I'm a Dutchman in NZ converting a French car with Japanese parts :).
I've removed the battery and motor stack from a 2014 Japanese domestic Leaf wreck as well as the harnesses from the motor area and the one that runs behind the dash. However, connector B24 from the battery, the round one that carries the CAN signals, seems to be part of a third harness, the body harness. This extends all the way to the back and in the ceiling and under the car :(.

I'm sure I need only part of that harness. Does anyone have that information? Alternatively, where can I find detailed wiring diagrams? I have downloaded the Factory Service Manuals from nicoclub, but they never describe and lay out the harnesses. Besides for my current problem, this level of detail will come in handy when I start reducing the harnesses to the minimum set of wires required.

Cheers,
Cees.
 

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1. Would I be ahead of the game on the cost of sourcing all of this same stuff part by part, albeit with different motors (i.e. Curtis) and different batteries?
No doubt that OEM parts are much cheaper than 'old school' bespoke EV parts and they usually offer much better performance. The challenge however is to fit the OEM drivetrain into your vehicle and that's where 'old school' solutions are still used on occasion.

Note that your $12000 donor cars are very expensive. We typically pay $3500 in Europe for 2014 Leafs that have been written off but usually still drivable. It might make more sense to sell your Leaf's and buy a wreck for your project.

4. Once everything is relocated, part by part, into my donor car, has anyone shown that the systems all work as they did before, since this would be NISSAN's proprietary controller and software.
Indra have built several vehicles using a subset of the Leaf's systems. Lookup posts by Mike Skooler (here) in this thread :)
 

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So happy to have found this thread!

I just won a salvage auction for a 2014 Leaf, and I'm a bit intimidated.

Can you please recommend a good diagnostic wifi scanner that works with the Leaf?

In your first video, you mention a scanner paired with LeafSpy being a big help, but most of the OBDII scanners I'm seeing on Amazon appear to be incompatible with the Leaf. The Leaf I just won is going to need some diagnostic work right away to get it moving. I believe there's a crash sensor or something that is keeping it from going into gear. All damage is in the rear, but I will need to figure out what sensors are causing the problem~ Any recommendations for resources on Leaf sensor locations?

I'm going to be doing a cut-away style conversion, losing the back half of the Leaf and welding it onto the front of another vehicle with all drive-train and driver cabin of the Leaf completely intact. I have a lot of questions surrounding the removal of this back-half -- causing sensors to trip, etc. For example, once the back breaks are removed will the ABS send a warning to the computer system. . . ? (I have a lot to learn!) How can I go about this cut-away to trick the Leaf into continuing to function normally, while it's missing it's rear-end :p

Many thanks for sharing all of this wonderful information! Looking forward to reading through this thread more slowly ~

~Meni
 

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You don't need to do anything to get the Regen. It should work. VCU will automatically take care of the Regen.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks 67BGTEV.

So, just to be clear, if I use the Nissan Leaf pedal assembly with the stroke sensor and master cylinder like the attached photo, the system, once powered, should work without the NISSAN Leaf ECU? I plan to use the TESLA motor with the Zero EV controller and did not know if those will control regen braking regardless of the braking system.

I assume I do not need the VDC for the braking system to work, but can I utilize the Nissan Leaf VDC (Vehicle Dynamic Controller) from the attached photo on an EV conversion car fro stability control? Has anyone done this yet?


I wonder what the backup power source from the attached photo would be?

Thanks!
I've not had any experience with your combination of setup.
As long as you are confident that your motor-controller setup works, you should be able to hook up the Leaf pedal and program your controller.

It looks like a complex setup for me that you are embarking on.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
 

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Sorry but there a quite a few inaccuracies in this.

the leaf system is far simpler than you make out. It is very simple - plug and play with the bare minimum components. yes you get a few errors but they do not affect the drive of the car.

Vehicle speed in particular is not important.

We are down to (on a 2015 UK spec Tekna):

Complete motor stack without AC (harness unmodified) including the park lock actuator.
Main ECU (VCM)
BCM
IPDM
J1772 inlet
Chademo inlet
Water pump
Coolant temperature sensor
Brake pedal switches (not the brake pot)
Accelerator HEPA
Start button and encoder
Two key sensors (both dash area, one above hvac and one in centre console)
Telematics module
Key security module (the bit welded to the dash crossmember)
Two original relay boxes from the engine bay harness
Repackaged HV battery with standard BMS
Heavily modified dash harness (with interior fusebox)
Body harness stripped down to just HV battery comms connector
The key

We also kept:
The OBD2 connector, the Binnacle connector and the 4 button connector for cycling through the dash display if required.

Quite simply plug and play with those components.

Finally, the gear selector is quite complicated. there are 10 internal switch positions which all need to do a certain thing in a certain order for each position.

Cheers,

Mike
Mike,

Many thanks for sharing this information. I finally have everything in the vehicle & this allowed me to delete some additional components that were not needed & were causing problems.

Would you be willing to explain a bit further regarding the gear selector switch? This is one of the components that I am currently struggling with. Shifter is in Park and will not go into Neutral, Drive or Reverse.

Additionally, one of the DTC's that I am having trouble clearing is for a HV Interlock. Perhaps I am missing one? Traction battery, HVAC, Service Plug & Heater box plugs are all installed. I assume shorting the interlock wires on each plug would work aswell.

If you happen to have a moment to share I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks again!
 

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Would you be willing to explain a bit further regarding the gear selector switch? This is one of the components that I am currently struggling with. Shifter is in Park and will not go into Neutral, Drive or Reverse.
This is just a guess based on automotive industry practice, rather than any knowledge specific to the Leaf, but since the "unintended acceleration" scandal of the 1980's it is normal interlock an automatic transmission shifter to the brake pedal. It seems possible - even likely - that you are tripping over that interlock.

This means that unless you are firmly pressing the brake pedal, the shifter can't be moved out of Park; this keeps idiots from shifting into Reverse or Drive while applying power (pressing the accelerator), and subsequently ramming walls (and other cars, and people... usually their own kids). It would be as applicable to an EV as it is to an engined-driven vehicle with a conventional automatic transmission. This is in automatic transmission vehicles, but would rationally apply to an EV with a mechanical parking feature in the transaxle... which includes the Leaf:
PARKING MECHANISM
• The parking mechanism consists of the manual shaft, manual plate, detent spring, parking rod, parking pawl and parking gear, and it is locked/unlocked by the operation of the parking actuator.
• If the parking actuator is operated by the signal from the electric shift control module, the manual shaft and manual plate that is mechanically connected to the parking actuator rotates sliding the parking rod. The sliding parking rod pushes up the parking pawl, which engages with the parking gear locking the parking mechanism.
Sure enough, from the 2017 Leaf owners manual:
The shift lever of this vehicle is designed so that the foot brake pedal must be depressed before shifting from the P (Park) position to any driving position while the power switch is in the ON position.

The shift lever cannot be moved out of the P (Park) position and into any of the other positions if the power switch is placed in the LOCK, OFF or ACC position or if the key is removed.
There are various ways to implement this, but it seems likely that there is either a hard-wired connection of brake pedal switch to the shifter, or a bus message from a component that is aware of brake application to the shifter. I note that skooler's list of retained components includes "Brake pedal switches". And of course the shifter also needs to be aware of the power switch mode (hardwired or by bus messages).

To enable emergency movement of a disabled vehicle, there is normally a reasonably accessible (without tools) feature which overrides this interlock and allows the shifter to be moved. In the Leaf, again from the owner's manual:
If your vehicle cannot be moved because the vehicle cannot to be shifted to the N (Neutral) position, please refer to the LEAF Roadside Assistance Guide which is located at www.NISSANUSA.com.
Even if you read that guide and get the shifter to move, you still need to overcome the problem that it may only go to "Neutral" (there is no neutral in the Leaf, so this means release the parking feature), and not to Drive as you need. Also, this is a procedure involving the brake pedal and door switches - not a physical release as is common with automatic transmissions - so it will depend on even more working network communications that normal operation. I suspect that you just need to convince your partial Leaf that you are pushing its brake pedal.
 

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do you get a red cog on the display? the park lock needs to be locked on power up - easiest to leave it in the gearbox but you can hold it with a breaker bar and torx socket.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk


I do get the cog. Thank you for that tip! I will try that first thing tomorrow. I watched a YouTube video of you with a breaker bar and I wondered what s going on.

Also, I ran out all of my HV interlocks and found an open on the service plug end. I figured out that one of the service plug pins was bent and not making contact with the interlock plug on the mount. That DTC is clear and I can now see the green car "ready light flash during start up. Contactors click, and then unfortunately click off again. Hopefully the Park sensor fixes this!

Thanks for the info Mike!
 

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Hi,
About to do this using a Nissian Leaf an put in to a Landrover
How up to date is that list of bits that was needed?

I have got a complete Leaf, un damaged and driving about.
So should have all the parts need so want to make sure get all needed.
 
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