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Good time!
I have read all the pages on this topic but have not found information on how to run the 2013 charger outside the car.
The charger starts, runs for a minute and restarts, but the charging does not go.
Maybe someone has experience in starting a charger?
 

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Before it starts charging, ensure that car is completely off.
Hit a timer button to over ride any timer that is programmed when car was running.

Get yourself a LeadSpy pro and check if it shows any error messages. Clear those error messages..
 

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Of the nissan leaf components, I use a high-voltage battery, charger and can-bus translator.
Probably a problem in the can-bus data stream?
 

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You need everything to be connected, if you want to get the charger work. There are many interconnect wiring, missing any of those will throw many errors.

If you don't have VCU, I don't think you can get charger to work, unless you come up with another solution to send signal to the charger to start charging.
 

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do you get a red cog on the display? the park lock needs to be locked on power up - easiest to leave it in the gearbox but you can hold it with a breaker bar and torx socket.

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What am amazing thread this is, thanks everybody for the dedication and continued interest in toying with the Nissan Leaf!

I'm going to try this tidbit right now but I just posted the start of my build thread and I think the Parking Actuator is what is preventing me from spinning the motor on the bench. Please cruise over and take a look:

https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1058791#post1058791
 

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I'm happy to see such an extensive thread with proper history of development and manipulation of this platform. Warms my heart.
A STEM education nonprofit I've been involved with for years is doing a Leaf swap, and this is where we're at:
IMG_20200620_163942.jpg IMG_20200620_195129 - Copy.jpg
The harness is out and grounded, battery box disconnected, but most other accessories are connected. The system right now shows dash, but I can't get any OBD functionality. What am I missing? LeafSpy won't initiate, and without OBD, I can't read DTCs. Looking forward to getting past this initial stage since I think the work of so many others is going to make the rest of this project a breeze.

Sent from my Etch-A-Sketch
 

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I'm happy to see such an extensive thread with proper history of development and manipulation of this platform. Warms my heart.
A STEM education nonprofit I've been involved with for years is doing a Leaf swap, and this is where we're at:
View attachment 119950 View attachment 119951
The harness is out and grounded, battery box disconnected, but most other accessories are connected. The system right now shows dash, but I can't get any OBD functionality. What am I missing? LeafSpy won't initiate, and without OBD, I can't read DTCs. Looking forward to getting past this initial stage since I think the work of so many others is going to make the rest of this project a breeze.

Sent from my Etch-A-Sketch
Put the lid back on the PDM. There is a microswitch in there.

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Am I confused about the PDM cover? I'd be surprised if that switch would be what's stopping ODB comms.
View attachment 120199
I thought this was all the '12 Leaf got (which this is, a '12).
PDM cover applies to gen2 onwards. Your gen1 there may be different.

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PDM cover applies to gen2 onwards. Your gen1 there may be different.
I'm currently thinking my best next step will be to connect all HV connectors and probably the battery too. I can't come up with why I'm getting no OBD anything, which means no LeafSpy.
edit: I think I saw a jumper in one of Rob's videos. Anyone know how the interlock system(s) checks for high volt connection?
 

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Just picked up a 2012 drivetrain actually the whole car for cheap. Was going to do a 67 bug but now thinking how nice the motor/gearbox is from the leaf was looking into dropping the whole motor/gearbox into a 2009 mini cooper and just mating the two haves of the half shafts to the mini? Does anyone know if this would work? Not a lot of room in a mini cooper but the motor/gearbox is not very big from the 2011/12 leafs.
 

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It worked in my classic Mini. The tricky bit is attaching the motor, getting custom axles, and finding space for batteries.

Seems like it'd be 10x the cost of simply...buying the electric Mini they sell...
 

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I see the 2021 emini for 30K, my cost is as follows $500 for complete 2012 leaf, sold wheels $300 and a headlight for $150 so leaf parts so far free plus made $50. The 2009 super clean mini cooper with blown motor rebuilt 6 speed and new brakes and tires is $700 seemed good deal. Now your right I have batteries free from junk yard 10 1kwh egolf packs but would need another 10 to get the voltage up to what the leaf needs. What voltages do people run the 11/12 drivetrains at? Seems it needs a minium of 200vdc to be decent. As for cost should be in under $1000, much less than a new one.
 

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I mean...don't forget resale...and labor...

According to Thunderstruck, the Leaf inverter will run down to 140V.
 

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Each egolf module is about 15vdc so looks like 10 or 12 would be ideal, I'll need to get a few more it seems. Does the Thunderstruck VCU work well? Seems like a decent solution. Was going to also use the leaf pedal and hopefully the dc/dc and maybe the charger as well.
 
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