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Road Legal StreetQuad conversion

83462 Views 216 Replies 24 Participants Last post by  Firehuntah

Been lurking this awesome forum for nearly 2 years now, gathering information about all the components for a conversion and I think it's time to slowly get started on my first project.

First let me introduce myself. My name is Rob, I'm almost 24 years old and I live in the Netherlands. Currently I'm working as a maintenance mechanic for a cable company. I'm really into cars and anything else on 4 wheels, always have been. It's only since 2 or 3 years ago that I really started to like electric vehicles though. I think mainly because of the performance of the Tesla Roadster, never thought an electric could go so fast while not emitting anything. Little did I know back then. :)
The more I started researching electric cars after that, the more I started to like them. And now I'm at a point where I really don't want anything else than electric anymore. Sadly for my job I'll still have to stick to gas since it's a company car. But for driving in my free time I'm planning to get a quad bike converted to electric. And maybe in the future a car when I have some more experience.

So, moving on to the project with the quad bike I'm planning.

My skill level: Not that great, but I know the basics since I studied for car mechanic for a few years, I just ended up doing something else. As for fabrication, I don't know how to weld and stuff like that so I'll probably have to get motor mounts and battery boxes made. Or I could start learning how to weld. :rolleyes: Fabricating small things like copper plates for battery connections shouldn't be a problem though, have the tools for that.
Range: I'd like to get a range of at least 80km (50 miles) at 80% DoD, which I think should be possible since the quad bike I'm looking for weighs only 170kg (375lbs). Not sure how aerodynamic it is, it is pretty low to the ground though. Make and model of the quad bike is a JLA Loncin Streetquad in case you want to look it up since I don't have any pictures myself yet.
Performance: The top speed has to be between 85-100kmh (53-62mph). Also want decent acceleration, compareable to the original 250cc motor. Not sure how fast that would be though since I haven't driven on one yet. Max 8-10 seconds to top speed I guess.
Budget: I want to spend around 6.000-6.500 euros ($7.800-$8.400) max for the conversion. Any more than that and I'm not really sure if it'll be worth it for a quad bike.
Parts I've already considered:
GBS 12v 100Ah pack x4 (for 48v system) + BMS and display
LMC LEM-200 127 Motor (contacted LMC, they suggested I use a LEM-200 D95B instead but I'm not sure which would be better)
Alltrax AXE4844 Controller (LMC suggested the Sigma PMT445 if I'd go with the D95B Motor)
Curtis PB-6 Throttle
DC DC Converter (not sure how much watt I would need)
Charger (not sure yet, needs to fit in the small frame where the gas tank currently is, do want to get a full charge within 6 hours or so though)

With these parts I expect to be around my budget price, I'm just not sure if these parts will be good enough to get the performance I want, especially with a 48V system. Was looking for 72V as well but I'm not sure which batteries I could best use for that since I can't really fit 72V with prismatic lithium cells. The A123 pouch cells would have been nice but I guess it's not really possible anymore to get them from a reliable source.

Also, being in the Netherlands it's pretty hard to find good parts for the conversion since there has to be a CE mark on all of the electric components I'll be using to avoid an EMC (or EMI) test for road approval, which would cost 1.300 euros ($1.700).

That's about all I know right now, hoping to get some feedback on the parts I've chosen. Or suggestions for other parts that are better suited and not too expensive. :) And if it's possible to do this conversion with a 48V system or I should go higher to 72V with different batteries.

Thanks in advance!
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Re: Planning a road legal Quad bike / ATV Conversion

...No idea why else I'd have to pay 200 euros more for the same controller....
Rebbl spent something like 39000 Euros to get our Soliton 1 and Jr controllers certified. If Rebbl hadn't taken it upon themselves to get our controllers certified my position was to simply stop selling to the EU. After all, why should I make the rest of the world pay more for my controllers just because one group of dumb-ass politicians - namely those in the EU - decided to impose a difficult and costly legislative burden on any electronic device used in a vehicle?

The Soliton Jr. Also thanks Evnetics for the free shirt! :)
You're welcome ;)

Here with Rebbl's EMC casing on it. Too bad this is necessary here, can't see anything of the good looking Soliton Jr anymore. :(
That is pretty hideous looking... Not to suggest anything illegal, but... perhaps just keep the shielding installed when you get your registration (from the RDW, right?). Then remove it afterwards. I can assure you the controller works perfectly fine without all that claptrap attached.

That said, more EU citizens need to complain about these EMC rules to their elected officials. I'm not saying that minimizing EMI isn't a worthy goal, but the requirements are just too stringent - they essentially apply the same standard for noise emissions to a 150kW EV motor controller as to a 20W car stereo...
By the way, I still don't know if I should connect the sender unit of the EV Display, the main fuse and the emergency switch mid pack or on the positive line to the controller. What would be better/safer?...
Either is fine, and technically speaking, electrically equivalent. In a fault condition which results in two points on the pack contacting the frame (etc.) at the same time, putting the emergency disconnect contactor in the middle of the pack is better because it has a statistically higher chance of preventing the above fault from occurring.
Wow... You are definitely giving evmetro and steelneck some serious competition for who does the most bat-$hit crazy restoration/conversion... that new plastic cover for the motor brush end really takes the prize! :D
...I just have a weird problem where the controller sometimes doesn't give any power the motor after I let it run in reverse and then forward again.....
Are you using the reverse and tach inputs on the controller? If so, then the likely cause is that version 1.5.2 and later inhibit the motor output immediately upon a state change of the reverse input until current has dropped below 50A and RPM has dropped below 100.
Send me some log files that show this to our support address.

Note: possible reason is that brake isn't applied the entire time; we removed that requirement in a beta version of code that hasn't been widely released yet.
Then there's still the problem with the motor that's getting too hot.
I also checked the carbon brushes and you can see really good that they've been very hot on the inside.
What are the continuous/peak current ratings for that motor and what have you set the max motor current in the controller to? PM motors (AC or DC) tend to be much less tolerant of overcurrent abuse than series DC.
The continuous rating is 200 A and peak is 400 A for 5 seconds or so. The max motor current in the Soliton Jr was also set to 400 A at first but since it was getting so hot quickly I turned it down to 200 A. Still gets too hot even though it takes a bit longer. But it's definately within the specs of the motor, so no overcurrent.
The *claimed* specs for the motor are 200A continuous and 400A for "5 seconds or so"; the general consensus around here is that the current ratings on PMDC motors are wildly optimistic.

Slew rate setting in the controller would, at most, be a second order cause of over-temperature (as a result of a higher current being reached in a fixed amount of time under acceleration).
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