I'm doing this on a Mazda B4000 (same as a Ranger). I realize that there may be some differences between the models but from the outside, the S-10 looks even easier than mine.
I just got some fairly thin but heavy enough hinges and welded them to the top of the frame rails at the very rear of rails. I took some measurements to determine that they would contact the braces under the bed for welding. I ground off the hinge pins and replaced with a removable pin....as both halves of the hing will be welded. This way the bed can be completely removed again fairly easily. I also welded the "rolled tabs" on the hinge to ensure they don't open up with stress....making them stronger.
Next, either use the original bolts or make up new pin/bolts that fasten to/through the box at the front and engage the original mount holes on the frame to add positional accuracy and stability. You may also choose to latch the front down, but may not be necessary. There area few pics on my thread that may help.
I would do what others suggest. Find someone in the garage that has done the same with your model of truck and shoot them a PM. I have gotten some great advise on other issues in this way. It's often that you could figure it out on your own, but it saves time and aggravation of going through the learning curve. You can often improve the idea or put your own spin on it after digesting it.
Good luck.
PS. I'm actually thinking of removing my rear bumper and replacing with a roll pan for weight reduction. I am hesitant due to safety reasons though... not decided yet. That sucker is heavy though!
I just got some fairly thin but heavy enough hinges and welded them to the top of the frame rails at the very rear of rails. I took some measurements to determine that they would contact the braces under the bed for welding. I ground off the hinge pins and replaced with a removable pin....as both halves of the hing will be welded. This way the bed can be completely removed again fairly easily. I also welded the "rolled tabs" on the hinge to ensure they don't open up with stress....making them stronger.
Next, either use the original bolts or make up new pin/bolts that fasten to/through the box at the front and engage the original mount holes on the frame to add positional accuracy and stability. You may also choose to latch the front down, but may not be necessary. There area few pics on my thread that may help.
I would do what others suggest. Find someone in the garage that has done the same with your model of truck and shoot them a PM. I have gotten some great advise on other issues in this way. It's often that you could figure it out on your own, but it saves time and aggravation of going through the learning curve. You can often improve the idea or put your own spin on it after digesting it.
Good luck.
PS. I'm actually thinking of removing my rear bumper and replacing with a roll pan for weight reduction. I am hesitant due to safety reasons though... not decided yet. That sucker is heavy though!
