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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I purchased a converted 944 from a guy that got it at auction. Is there anyone near San Antonio that can point me in the right direction of restoring it? It appears to have a Zilla 2k and a Warp motor. 156V charger in the rear, but no batteries. Considering I bought it for $1800 I wouldnt be surprised if everything was fried.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry, can't help with the motor...

What does the battery bay look like?
Just a standard metal box for what looks to be for 13 batteries. Cant get a good picture of the rear. Hatch is closed and cant get it open. Box is in the way pretty good to get it from the inside.
 

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It's a Netgain Warp motor, probably 11 or 13". They're solid and even it it needs a partial rebuilt, it isn't bad,

Zilla controller is probably fine. Probably worth all you paid and then some.
 

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The 944 is probably worth that much.

The motor is almost certainly fine. You couldn't sell it for much, you could replace it with a forklift motor for cheap, but it was probably expensive to purchase.

The Zilla is a wash. I think they sell between $500-$1000 lately. It probably works.

Overwhelmingly, most EV conversions never get finished (same as any car project). Those that do get finished sell for peanuts if the owner ever wants to sell them. Just about zero value in them.

This is technology from 4-10 years ago. It was probably lead-acid battery powered. Lead-acid batteries suck and they die before you've used them long enough to recover what it would have cost for equivalent mileage of gasoline.

But used lead-acid batteries still have value in a scrapyard, so they'll get sold off when dead.

Maybe it never had batteries as that would often be among the last things to purchase, but it probably did and they were probably salvaged.

Or, maybe the owner was waiting to replace them with Lithium rather than more terrible lead-acids. And then the wife was like "You're spending how much on that piece of shit for batteries? That are going to die in 2 years just like they did last time? No. You're buying a used Civic and something I can actually use."

And so it gets auctioned off half-complete.

My hunch is it's good to go as soon as you replace batteries. Do not replace them with lead-acids, there is no equation in which they have value. Buy some old OEM EV battery packs.

Probably not a quick project, and, you're certainly not driving all the way home to New Hampshire from San Antonio on electric anyway, so, U-Haul'll rent you a trailer for like $25/day, haul it home and fix it up there.

Or convert it back to gas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It is definitely a lead acid setup. Plenty of battery acid in the box. Came with all the cables to tie the batteries together. Everything seems wired together and well labeled, almost as if it was a school project car. Im hoping it just needs new batteries. But also hoping someone local could give it a look to be sure. Car-part.com the best way to find old packs? I cant find anything nearby for volt or leaf. The seller said he had it running until he lost the keys, I dont really believe that at all. Car also has suspension problems that would prohibit driving at the moment. He said he used all the batteries for cores for all the cars he goes through. I can get reconditioned batteries for about $47 each right now. Is there a minimum voltage to test the zilla and motor? I see nominal voltage is listed as 72-300. Its labeled as a zilla 2k HV, but the motor has no markings, so cant tell if its the HV model yet.
 

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Car-part.com the best way to find old packs?
Yeah.

The seller said he had it running until he lost the keys, I dont really believe that at all.
Yeah, bullshit.

"Just lost the keys to my Porsche there, don't know where I left 'em, run's great, whoop well I did take the batteries out." Mhm.

Car also has suspension problems that would prohibit driving at the moment.
Lead-acid batteries you say?
Suspension problems you say?
Batteries have been removed you say?

It's painting a picture.

Looks like he overloaded it with lead, messed up the suspension, unloaded the batteries to fix it, figured it was too expensive to replace the batteries, and so it sat until now.

I can get reconditioned batteries for about $47 each right now.
Ugh. Don't do it.

You won't be driving it all the way home regardless, right?

It's a series DC motor. If you just want to roll it, I'd hotwire it.

Throw in a single starter battery, and bypass the controller. It probably has a solenoid that engages when you push the gas normally? If so, the high current output probably goes to the controller. Just steal that lead and connect it straight to the cable that leaves the controller instead. If you have to, hotwire a switch to engage the solenoid and sneak that under the hood, around the doorway, and mount it to a pushbutton next to the steering wheel.

12v from a normal starter battery is enough to make the motor spin. Leave it in 1st gear if you want it to crawl.

Maybe jack up the ass end so the drive tires spin freely, so you know what kind of speeds to expect. Make sure the breaks sort of work (you won't have a booster, unless it's 12v too).

It'll be enough to hump it around the block and up onto a trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just bought a junked Prius pack for $20. Hopefully I can figure out how to pull good cells from it. Currently showing 78 volts as a pack thats been sitting for 2 years.
 

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I just bought a junked Prius pack for $20.
Even for a NiMH pack, that's not bad for a 1.3-1.7kwh pack. A footlong and drink at Subway will cost you that much.

Local guy tried to charge me $800. I laughed and asked him to check again. He confirmed.

At least balancing won't be as big of an issue. You can probably trickle charge it back up to a happy level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just bought a junked Prius pack for $20.

At least balancing won't be as big of an issue. You can probably trickle charge it back up to a happy level.
Should I just attach my trickle charger to two cells at a time to try to get them around 14 volts? I tried hooking up the cars 156V charger to the whole pack but it just drained the pack to 20-30V quickly. Disconnecting the charger the pack started to get voltage back up. The LED indicator on the charger wasnt detecting a suitable battery. Im likely going to gut everything and try to drive it to New Hampshire for a custom car and just give the Porsche roller away.
 

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I tried hooking up the cars 156V charger to the whole pack but it just drained the pack to 20-30V quickly.
Did you hook it up backwards?

I can't think of why it would do that.

Im likely going to gut everything and try to drive it to New Hampshire for a custom car and just give the Porsche roller away.
Ehn. It's not that good a purchase if you scrap it. And you'll have to do all that conversion work all over again.

At least attempt to sell it after you disembowel it. Would pay for your gas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I tried both ways on the charger, it drained both times.

When I say drive it to New Hampshire I just mean the motor, controller, pumps, etc. I would give the car chassis to a family member in town that would throw a SBC in it for drag racing. My dream is to put the electric components in a custom single seat car.
 

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I tried both ways on the charger, it drained both times.
Doesn't make sense. Where's the phantom voltage coming from?

Did you measure the output of the charger? Is it too smart for its own good and is draining the battery attempting to load test it or something?

Is it trying to do a bottoming charge before it will attempt to charge? (Old NiCad chargers would do this, can't imagine why a modern one would, especially if it's for lead acids).

Do you have a power supply, variac, or other dummy charger?

I'd measure a few cells to figure out the pack polarity, and try to manually charge it. That's bizarre.

Then again, a 4-pack of AA NiMHs are $20, so, it's not like you're out much.
 

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controller is very nice , I have the 1K model and a 9inch ADC motor
Make sure to set the Max Amps in the controller for what ever batteries you buy
I have 48 100AH CALB and limit my max to 600A so I don't fry my batteries
This is a >$6000 investment new
You may need the 180 AH size for that setup , to get the full punch

The manufacture will fix that controller if needed for just a few hundred , so good buy, its a >$4000 controller
 
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