Re: Updated to Version 3
Version 3
I looked up my charger. It looks like it is 120vdc at 10 amps. Will
this fuse work for that? it is 10a and 125vdc
I would suggest a 15 amp version so it is not right on the edge of blowing when you are charging. Also, a common ceramic heater will peak at more than 10 amps. That fuse type is a good choice as they are longstanding form for DC protection. It should be available in the future.
I fixed the Voltmeter. For the fuse do you mean 1 amp and at least 120vdc such as
this?
Good choice. In the smaller current ratings it is possible to use the ceramic versions of the standard 1/4 by 1-1/4 fuse. One line with a DC rating is the
ABC line. I usually use these because the fuses and holders cost less (still, use quality fuse holders.) If you use this type of fuse it is very important not to take a short cut or "cheap out" in the future and stick a regular glass fuse in them, they explode with a shower of glass shards and a small plamsa ball.
Also the way i have the voltmeter set up will kepp it on 24/7 isn't that a waste of my precious battery life?
You should figure out how much current it draws. Most analog volt meters are remarkably stingy with battery power, usually 1 or 2 milliamps at full scale. If it is low like that it shouldn't be a problem (100 amp hours would take over 5 years, self discharge would be much faster.) If you want the breaker to also shut off the volt meter you can move the fuse connection to the other side of the circuit breaker (I would recommend that so the breaker stops all traction pack draw.)
Mines only 250 vdc is there a place i can put it still. I was told that would be ok to shutoff everything
It is quite O.K. to include a breaker and your chosen location is good. It isn't required but extra layers of safety can only help.
Good suggestion about using the charger fuse with heater.
I have a Magnecraft & Struthers-Dunn 10A/150 VDC relay which i verified works for my application
I fixed the heater relay connection i understand why that was wrong.
I plan to have a precharge resister i just dont know what rating for the resister. I have a diy controller from Paul and Sabrina's shop.
I would recommend consulting with them on the choice of precharge setup. The requirements vary with the chosen controller. At around 120 volts it may be possible to use a household edison base light bulb. I use a 7.5 watt night light bulb as the precharge resistor for my Curtis 1221B controller. Oh, don't use the miniature base screw in bulbs for this, the small contact spacing isn't really suitable for DC operation.
That was a typo. It's there now
Very helpful!!!
Thanks for the kind words. Seeing the revised diagram I see one more potential change that may better suit your needs. With the current setup the charger and heater current will not show up on your ammeter. The charger current not showing up is the usual setup with an analog ammeter because most don't read both directions. The heater not showing up may be undesirable. If you want charging current and heater draw to be reflected on the ammeter you can just move the ammeter side of the charger fuse to the other side of the shunt. If you want one and not the other that will require one more fuse.
