Yes, and we had this discussion during the design of galderi's previous project; however, I think the explanation for this choice has already been given:Have you thought about using something like a Nissan leaf power unit ?
You get the engine and gearbox together as a single unit - as long as it is low enough for the body
The chassis design calls for a mid mounted drive train using a FWD gearbox. I know a load of people will scoff at the idea of running a gearbox but again changing this part of the design would trigger a chain reaction that would result in a heap of delays and extra costs. Running through the gearbox means I only need an adaptor and mounts and I'm good to go.
That makes sense. Or you could just shift, since you're stuck with the transmission anyway.The motor I am running is an Advanced DC 8 inch. In the previous car the motor performed excellently from 0 - 80kph (45mph) but was lacklustre from there to 100kph (70mph). But that was running at 172v so the back EMF was catching me in the higher revs. So I am intending to swap to a controller that can handle high volts to combat the back EMF and give better top end performance. But even if I run with the ZEVA controller for a while it will perform just like my last car which was awesome up to 80kph.
It's also mechanically very different from the 550, in both suspension and in engine configuration, so it will be near-replica of the body on a different chassis of the same general layout. I like the fairing (pod) plan.I have placed a deposit on a locally built chassis which normally has a fibreglass body but will be near perfect for my objective.
I will be building a buck for the 55o style body and constructing an aluminium body.
I know there are kits available. But I am not really doing this to gain a car. I am doing this for the satisfaction that can only be obtained by doing something special.
It will not be a true replica as the interior and some other details will be different. One notable difference will be the addition of head rests which are mandatory for all new road cars here. I will be building streamlined pods behind each occupant. The headrest will be built into the front of each pod. Inside each pod will be a roll bar.
Thanks Duncan, Lets wait and see the quality of the outcome. I am new to body work. But doing the course did give me some confidence. It looks like a load of trial and error and rework. There are some areas (example around the wheel arches) where I am clueless at the moment. But I will try a couple of techniques and see how it goes. Funny enough after examining many photos I can see the replicas do not have the little flare around the wheel arch which would solve the problem.That looks truly awesome!
I would not dare to try to make an aluminium body!
Have you thought about using something like a Nissan leaf power unit ?
You get the engine and gearbox together as a single unit - as long as it is low enough for the body
This sounds like a great project, and I'm looking forward to following it.
Yes, and we had this discussion during the design of galderi's previous project; however, I think the explanation for this choice has already been given:
That makes sense. Or you could just shift, since you're stuck with the transmission anyway.![]()
Hey Brian, the motor choice is about convenience and cost. I am already up against a load of challenges, I don't want to add more to the mix.It's also mechanically very different from the 550, in both suspension and in engine configuration, so it will be near-replica of the body on a different chassis of the same general layout. I like the fairing (pod) plan.
Searching for the chassis, I learned that Graham McRae built some highly regarded replicas a couple decades ago, but this is not one of those or a continuation of them - they were much closer to the original mechanical design. It does look like a very nice design, with a much better suspension than the original.
Interesting project. Not enough space for batteries!!! It looks like a semi trailer compared to a 550. But looks can be deceiving.I'm building a Marlin Roadster
I sort of fell into this build
Its simply too small to fit enough batteries to make it a second electric car
So its getting an old Ford Crossflow
If I had not started this my "plan" was to make a Jaguar "C" Type - or XK120 replica
But I was going to make the body from fiberglass
The chassis I was going to make using fiberglass honeycomb sandwich panels
What if you made a small trailer in a suitable style containing another small set of batteries (like 100kwh) as a range extender. Then just suspend a cable from the trailer back to the car. I really should take my own advice. That might work for the 550Looks can be deceiving - the Marlin is an old kit car - this one is Morris Marina Based so its about a foot shorter and narrower than my "device"
The wings and running boards design means that you cannot use that space - putting the motor - I had a nice 9 inch unit for it - in the gearbox space leaves the engine bay for batteries
Using that and the duel tank location I could have squeezed as many batteries as I have in my "Device" - 14 kwh
But I already have a short range car
I find I'm either driving less than 50 km - the Device will work - OR over 150 km
So I need about three times as much in the way of batteries
I haven't had any kickback at all using my Device for autocross and such like - maybe I would hit problems if I started to win!
I thought about that - the trailer could earn its keep as storage for my solar panels when it was not being usedWhat if you made a small trailer in a suitable style containing another small set of batteries (like 100kwh) as a range extender. Then just suspend a cable from the trailer back to the car. I really should take my own advice. That might work for the 550![]()
That forum requires a login, so I can't see the thread, but I found the car...The Chassis is known as the GTZ here in Australia. It was produced under agreement with the original designer in the UK. There is a thread here (Hopefully you can see it):
Sign In - OzClubbies
www.ozclubbies.com.au
Big steps between gears can be a problem, but will that be a problem with the Hyundai 5-speed that this kit uses? All you need is to maximize motor power output; it doesn't matter what the speed and torque combination is, because that's what the transmission changes for you.Shifting up doesn't help significantly. The gearing doesn't drop the revs low enough to put the motor back in it's ideal rev range. So then there isn't enough power to over come the mechanical disadvantage the new gear just introduced. I am fairly sure what I need is higher volts to extend the power into the second half of the rev range.
With any luck the combination of electric power and towing a trailer won't drive Porsche enthusiasts to kill you in their rage.What if you made a small trailer in a suitable style containing another small set of batteries (like 100kwh) as a range extender. Then just suspend a cable from the trailer back to the car. I really should take my own advice. That might work for the 550![]()
A major issue with my Spitfire conversion plan was inadequate range, and I can see doing this: transit to events using the trailer, saving the onboard battery for the event. For me, the problem would be that I would have built a really fun-to-drive car, then saddled it with a trailer when on the road. I don't mind towing a trailer, but it's not what I want attached to a sports car.I thought about that - the trailer could earn its keep as storage for my solar panels when it was not being used
Now I'm trying to remember why I did not go that route!!
I decided to register with OzClubbies, which took a couple of days.The Chassis is known as the GTZ here in Australia. It was produced under agreement with the original designer in the UK. There is a thread here (Hopefully you can see it):
Sign In - OzClubbies
www.ozclubbies.com.au
Bolt-in rear stays seem like a reasonable design to me.The single rear roll bar is being omitted from my chassis in favour of 2 individual hoops as you say. The chassis will still not be supplied with any rear stays but I will add them later. I need to take care with that part of the design otherwise I risk blocking the ability to get the motor, gearbox and batteries in and out of the car.