For the reduction thing, I found this:
http://www.electricmotorsport.com/e...ducers/cast-iron-gear-reducer-5-1-c-face.html
This gives me a combined reduction ratio of 8:1.
I don't know of the torque rating of this reducer, I'll need to contact them for that.
With this out of the way, I'm eyeing the Azure AC24-LS motor with a DMOC445 controller. With the specs I'm seeing on the interwebz, the motor pushes 92 Nm, which means ~2300 N tractive force on the rear wheels, while allowing for some losses. With an all-up weight of ~1600 kg with all the batteries, this will be 1.4 m/s^2 of forward acceleration. Not bad, I guess?
I've also done a crude calculation in terms of hill starts, and it would take the motor ~21 seconds to reach 54 km/h on a 7% hill. This is a worst case scenario as I would normally use the ICE to start the car up hills. The only place where this capability would be necessary is during stop&go traffic up a hill. This is of specific concern to me as one of my main goals is to switch off the ICE in stop&go traffic, and believe me, Istanbul has a lot of'em.
For the battery, I'm hunting for Fluence ZE/Nissan Leaf battery packs from partouts/totaled cars but so far no luck. Another option is a Samsung ICR18650-HE2 battery pack, assembled to fill the underboot storage area(50L) and satisfy the minimum 288V requirement of the motor at 3.2 V/cell, which works out to be a 90S18P pack with a 0.7 volumetric packing factor, and 15 kWh if full capacity is used. But this entails LOTS OF painstaking work to assemble the battery pack, not to mention the pack costs ~$4500 if bought in bulk from NKON. I'm also in contact with my former employers to see if they are interested in selling me the Panasonic NCR18650B batteries we had laying around.
I'm not planning to use the full capacity of the battery, I'm doing my calculations over 50% of their rated capacity. With a CdA of 0.8 m^2 and a rolling resistance coefficient of 0.015, the car uses 8 kW of battery power at 60 km/h, considering motor and drivetrain losses. This equates to a range of 56 km, of course neglecting any accelerations. My guess will be that I will have around 30 km range all things considered, which is more than enough for inner-city work. Of course, the range depends on the final decision for the battery, $4500 is surely a whole lot for batteries and accounts for the single biggest expense for now, and I have not even accounted for the wiring and sensors to be added to the battery pack. Another reservation I have for the battery is safety in the event of a rear-end crash, lithium batteries burn spectacularly when punctured. I'm open for suggestions for the battery pack.
The integration of the electric drive to the rest of the car is minimal, as of now I'm thinking of having a separate throttle lever on the steering wheel to operate the motor. This is where I'll also command the regen, if I elect to implement it. Power accessories will be the only other thing, where I'm totally blind as of now.
The other small problems I'm currently considering is the operation of the Haldex clutch to disengage the electric drive for when the ICE is on or when there's a fault with the electric drive, and the need for gearbox oil circulation and cooling as the output shaft will be turning even when the gearbox is at neutral.
I've written a spreadsheet to calculate the 0-100 kph sprint time of the car with and without electric drive, and while corroborating the factory data of 9.8 sec with ICE only, I'm getting a 7.1 sec 0-100 time with both systems working at maximum.
The total costs involved look to be:
$500 AC24LS motor and DMOC445 controller
$500 5:1 reduction drive
$1200 rear subframe, differential and other bits&bobs to mechanically supply power to rear wheels
$4500(a lot!) battery pack
$500 charger
$500 labor, adapter parts and unforeseen costs
I'm really excited about this project now.
http://www.electricmotorsport.com/e...ducers/cast-iron-gear-reducer-5-1-c-face.html
This gives me a combined reduction ratio of 8:1.
I don't know of the torque rating of this reducer, I'll need to contact them for that.
With this out of the way, I'm eyeing the Azure AC24-LS motor with a DMOC445 controller. With the specs I'm seeing on the interwebz, the motor pushes 92 Nm, which means ~2300 N tractive force on the rear wheels, while allowing for some losses. With an all-up weight of ~1600 kg with all the batteries, this will be 1.4 m/s^2 of forward acceleration. Not bad, I guess?
I've also done a crude calculation in terms of hill starts, and it would take the motor ~21 seconds to reach 54 km/h on a 7% hill. This is a worst case scenario as I would normally use the ICE to start the car up hills. The only place where this capability would be necessary is during stop&go traffic up a hill. This is of specific concern to me as one of my main goals is to switch off the ICE in stop&go traffic, and believe me, Istanbul has a lot of'em.
For the battery, I'm hunting for Fluence ZE/Nissan Leaf battery packs from partouts/totaled cars but so far no luck. Another option is a Samsung ICR18650-HE2 battery pack, assembled to fill the underboot storage area(50L) and satisfy the minimum 288V requirement of the motor at 3.2 V/cell, which works out to be a 90S18P pack with a 0.7 volumetric packing factor, and 15 kWh if full capacity is used. But this entails LOTS OF painstaking work to assemble the battery pack, not to mention the pack costs ~$4500 if bought in bulk from NKON. I'm also in contact with my former employers to see if they are interested in selling me the Panasonic NCR18650B batteries we had laying around.
I'm not planning to use the full capacity of the battery, I'm doing my calculations over 50% of their rated capacity. With a CdA of 0.8 m^2 and a rolling resistance coefficient of 0.015, the car uses 8 kW of battery power at 60 km/h, considering motor and drivetrain losses. This equates to a range of 56 km, of course neglecting any accelerations. My guess will be that I will have around 30 km range all things considered, which is more than enough for inner-city work. Of course, the range depends on the final decision for the battery, $4500 is surely a whole lot for batteries and accounts for the single biggest expense for now, and I have not even accounted for the wiring and sensors to be added to the battery pack. Another reservation I have for the battery is safety in the event of a rear-end crash, lithium batteries burn spectacularly when punctured. I'm open for suggestions for the battery pack.
The integration of the electric drive to the rest of the car is minimal, as of now I'm thinking of having a separate throttle lever on the steering wheel to operate the motor. This is where I'll also command the regen, if I elect to implement it. Power accessories will be the only other thing, where I'm totally blind as of now.
The other small problems I'm currently considering is the operation of the Haldex clutch to disengage the electric drive for when the ICE is on or when there's a fault with the electric drive, and the need for gearbox oil circulation and cooling as the output shaft will be turning even when the gearbox is at neutral.
I've written a spreadsheet to calculate the 0-100 kph sprint time of the car with and without electric drive, and while corroborating the factory data of 9.8 sec with ICE only, I'm getting a 7.1 sec 0-100 time with both systems working at maximum.
The total costs involved look to be:
$500 AC24LS motor and DMOC445 controller
$500 5:1 reduction drive
$1200 rear subframe, differential and other bits&bobs to mechanically supply power to rear wheels
$4500(a lot!) battery pack
$500 charger
$500 labor, adapter parts and unforeseen costs
I'm really excited about this project now.