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Series 2 Land Rover & Hyper 9 Direct to LT230 Build Thread

17319 Views 80 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  psnl
10
Hi Folks,
Long time lurker and learner here from the UK (South Wales), thought i'd start documenting my build as it slowly progresses.

The vehicle:
a 1961 Land Rover 88" Series 2 - bought brand new by my grandfather in 1961, then was passed down to my late father in the 80's, and on to me in 2009 where i stripped it back to the chassis and rebuilt it.

Here's one of my favourite pictures of it doing what it does best, i.e. being awesome! This was after arriving home from rescuing my sister during the 'Beast from the East' in... 2018 i think it was.
Vehicle Land vehicle Car Snow Tire


We've been pretty much everywhere in it including a guelling LEJOG and then the "North Coast 500" in Scotland a few years ago, and probably hundreds of camping trips.
Over the years it's had various different engines:
  1. Left the factory with a 2.25 petrol,
  2. Dad fitted a 2.8 V6 petrol Cologne engine in it in 1990-ish,
  3. I fitted a 2.5NA Diesel (cheap insurance at the time), as well as:
  4. 300TDi (great engine, not bad speed but noisy as hell)
  5. Essex V6 3.0 which i built EFi for using the Speeduino/Arduino platform, my build for that conversion is here on the speeduino forum. This is a pretty rapid engine but to be honest too fast for what it's in... the more you rev it the more power it seems to give, and it just gets scary. lol. It's also now extremely expensive to run! Also quite loud, and the engine weighs a ton being cast iron everything. I also have a stubby R380 gearbox squuzed in there.
I have disc brakes using the now defunct (as far as i know) YakYak classics conversion kit (defender discs, discovery calipers) and P38 power steering (range rover). So it's basically 99% original...
This is where my next adventure begins... A background from me - i work with 'smart buildings' mainly with comms including with lithium / other weird chemistry battery installations in grid connected buildings, so have a basic/fair idea of how not to burn my fingertips. Also am a keen CAD user as i also make prototype stuff at work - obviously Electric Vehicles are a whole new frontier for me so that's why i'm here! We have a bunch of different EV cars and vans at work so am familiar with the good and 'bad' bits of EV driving and charging.


As my Landy has an LT230 i started looking at ways to drive the transfer box directly with a motor rather than leave the original gearbox in place - this should leave me with a lot more room under the bonnet for a larger battery pack, with the motor tucked away somewhere in the transmission tunnel. I'll also save weight as the R380 is fairly hefty.

I like the look of the Hyper 9HV & controller, and see that Jaunt Electric Videos (YouTube vid) has used a hyper9, as well as This kit from Evolution Australia.

I've currently got a 1.667 ratio LT230 on my workbench which i'm rebuilding. This, coupled with my 3.54:1 diffs and 215/85/R16 tyres should give the following gearing in high range - see the MPH column i've added to the left in an expert way: basically 1mph is 66rpm at the motor.

Rectangle Slope Plot Line Font


I expect to mostly use the Landy for commuting the 15 minutes / 7 miles to work, which means doing either 30mph or just under 70 which i currently do. I don't need it to be a rocket ship - i am aware this car is a tin shed on wheels, and it can already go extremely fast, but i just choose not to go that fast as i get older (wiser!). We also use the landy for camping, and christmas shopping where people are free to slam their car doors into my battered doors. lol


To make a start and because i needed a huge paperweight i decided to 3D print a full size dual shaft Hyper 9DHV motor, i like to have something hands on to chuck around with a tape measure in the other hand:
Wood Audio equipment Hardwood Gas Home appliance


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Sports equipment Wheel

Needs some sanding or whatever but it certainly does the job!

To drive the LT230 from the motor requires a shaft adapter which i've drawn up and will hopefully get a quote for in the coming days. If anyone knows the exact spline designation for the R380 / LT77 mainshaft please speak up but i'm quite sure i've got it measured correctly. Shaft connector mockup:

Saw Tool Power tool Wood Machine tool


Measured the spline profile of a brand new shaft with a Keyence VHX-7000 microscope, which measures surface topography of 'stuff'. a very cool machine.


Back in the world of CAD i've got an assembly with a pre-prototype adapter plate and shaft converter:
Cylinder Font Rectangle Automotive lighting Engineering


Cutaway view: (are you bored of pictures yet? apologies). Aiming for the shaft converter to be a transition fit on to the keyed shaft, and held in place with the purple cap head bolt. Needs to be tight enough to stay concentric but not so tight that you can never get it off.
Rectangle Cross Urban design Font Symbol


Now, i was a bit worried about the shaft coupler not being meaty enough but a stress simulation (in Autodesk Inventor 2022) at 2000NM i.e. 10x max motor torque shows the 300M steel nowhere near its yield point, so this is good news. This simulation has motor torque applied at the keyway, and reactive torque applied on the surface of the splines.
Drinkware Cylinder Line Camera accessory Liquid

Also(!) the ZF gearbox to LT230 adapter used in some older range rovers(i.e. this ) has much thinner walls as well as sharp splines inside so we can only be on a winner here...!


To do in the short term: - get my LT230 to a CMM in the next few days, luckily my distant colleagues have one so i may shoot a few emails off tomorrow. So far i've measured the LT230 holes with a good set of calipers, verifying measurements as best i can with a laser cut 'gasket', but a CMM will tell us for sure:
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Automotive design Auto part



as for remaining hardware such as batteries, i'd like to use Tesla batteries as used in other Hyper 9 installs, I like the Tesla packs as they're water cooled and seem to be popular. As for BMS i'm leaning towards the Orion with the little cell breakout boards, but simpBMS has been mentioned too, and is less wiring -more googling required.

Charging: I really want to go down the 'smaller battery pack with quicker charger' design route but so far haven't found a solution above 6.6kW. CCS seems out of the window as my max battery voltage is going to be 144V to suit the Hyper 9 HV controller, i.e. the SME AC-X144 - and CCS minimum DC voltage is 200V at this moment in time. I see the Tesla Gen2 charger is 10kW or so but i don't think CAN is implemented just yet. It'll be a while before i have the cash to buy chargers, BMS and batteries so there's plenty of time to learn yet!

Thanks to those who have answered my questions on other posts here, and thanks to all of you who have taken the time to make youtube videos.
Cheers
Tom

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7
Ok, so!
Repaired some aluminium corrosion on the rear tub (body) where it attaches to the chassis behind the seats... this took ages but it's better to get it done now.
we now have brakes, and power steering!


Made a steadying bracket for the brake pipes as they looked a bit prone to vibration:

Water Motor vehicle Gas Machine Auto part


PAS pipes fitted, it was fun testing the steering without an engine running. Also placed the modules in place before drawing up a pack on the computer. There's a load of room in the engine bay without any motors taking up space!

Wheel Tire Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle


The DC-DC, BMS and contactors of course will live inside the pack, so it should all fail safe with no external voltage when it's all shut down. i'll make a little adapter to water cool the DCDC via the spare face on the chill plate.

Some coffee later:
Rectangle Gas Machine Metal Titanium



Set the plasma cutter up to cut my copper busbars. I will mill the bolt holes out for the electrical connections to maximise contact surface area as the plasma is a bit brutal:
Wood Hood Bumper Rectangle Motor vehicle


Wood Font Material property Rectangle Gas

The ends of these will be tin plated to match what's on the eTron modules, and i've got some orange plasti-dip to try making orange insulators for the rest of the bar.

QUESTION - any suggestions for what material bolts to use for bolting the busbars to the battery terminals? What do OEMs use in their packs? I don't know if brass is a good or bad idea, and to go with BZP as they're stronger, especially in M6 (about 1/4" dia.) flavour.

Slots n stuff in the mill
Motor vehicle Gas Machine Technology Wood




And here's where we are now, tack welded for the moment - pleased to say everything fits together! The slots are to allow the chill plates to be bolted down. I didn't want any holes underneath. the UK is a wet country!
Gas Engineering Composite material Machine Metal



Next step is to tack weld the rest of the frame on, then get some chassis mounts made up before everything gets too heavy 馃槅fusion360 says it'll be 218 kilos fully finished.

Cheers!
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The contactors you are showing are Tesla battery pack ones so do not have economiser built in, what will be controlling them?
The contactors you are showing are Tesla battery pack ones so do not have economiser built in, what will be controlling them?
Hi Tomdb thanks for that, the contactors in the picture are gigavac GV200-MA EV ones, i was under the impression they have the economiser built in? as per the description here
Gigavac GV200-MA EV Contactor - 4000 Amps Max - EV200 Replacement - 12 Volt Internal Economizer, EV West - Electric Vehicle Parts, Components, EVSE Charging Stations, Electric Car Conversion Kits

Any way to check, i.e. an ammeter in line when powered up etc?

I'm guessing the BMS will control them, i haven't read the orion manual for a few months now!
Yes you put a multi meter across the wires. and measure the resistance, it its low ohms like 20ish no economiser.

The link does not look like your contactors. Yours have the connector on them and not fly leads out the top.
Yours have the connector on them and not fly leads out the top.
well spotted, now i'm back from work i can see that they are not what i ordered, lol

5 ohms
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Tire Gas



now i'm sad
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Looks great so far!
I've not tried plasma cutting Copper - I don't know why it didn't occur to me! I could have made a much neater job of some of the interconnects.

In response to your question about bolts:
Font Material property Number Symmetry Parallel


The further apart the two metals are on the chart, the more electrolytic corrosion they will experience. (search for "Metal Electrolytic Potential" for a better list)

The terminals on the Hyper 9 controller 'look' like they might be Nickel coated. Tin (Solder) is pretty close to lead on the chart. Stainless steel (active 303, 304, 316) also sits in the range between copper & Nickel.

So, Tinned Copper attached to Nickel coated terminals with A2 or A4 (304 or 316) Stainless bolts would likely be a good combination. I hope I'm right about that - it's what I've used!

Stainless (bolts in particular) have a habit of 'picking up' or Galling - but you can buy anti galling paste which largely stops it, meaning you can loosen them next time.
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OK, a fair amount has been happening since my last update! I've been very ill, and also pulled onto another project or two so i'm a bit behind. I have:

Designed, cut out and welded my mounts to the chassis. Two of the mounts are where the original engine mounts were, with two further back.
for bushes i'm using leaf spring poly bushes - they're a land rover part number, and a nice and simple design to work with. I wanted the mounts to hold the battery fully 'captive' i.e. effectively a bolt through a steel tube. I moved away from the traditional engine mount style, as if the rubber shears off, the battery is free to go anywhere it likes - however if that did happen i'd be dead by that point anyway so is it really my problem?

The longer of the mounts also have gusset plates to stiffen it all up:

Hand tool Saw Material property Tool Wood


And another one, you get the idea.
Wheel Wood Bicycle part Tool Rim


All welded to the chassis:
Sleeve Automotive tire Bag Motor vehicle Gas



Underneath of the battery box, note that the tubular bit can also be used as a lifting point. Nice!
Automotive tire Wood Gas Engineering Bumper



Here's the box after much more welding and a coat of paint, i'm pleased with how it's turned out so far. It also fits in the car which is great! lol
Automotive tire Tire Hood Bumper Automotive design



Sides cut from 2mm Zintec, I was wondering whether to use aluminium or steel, but steel is stronger and more fireproof(!) than ally, so that that got my vote. The orange thing is a fused HV disconnect from Citini. I'll coat the panels with Buzzweld FXliner, which is basically a 2K schultz stuff, which is nice and tough.

Wood Gas Automotive exterior Machine Metal



My battery modules are now bolted to the chill plates with thermal pads inbetween. I'll assemble and test it as much as i can outside of the frame, then move it in to the frame when ready. I've now got the correct contactors with the built in economisers too! Thanks again TomDB for noticing my error.



Circuit component Hood Electrical wiring Electronic engineering Computer hardware

Might twist all these wires together and hope for the best.


What multi pin connectors do you EV builders like to use for talking to stuff outside of the pack? That's one of the things i am yet to decide on. I used MIL spec connectors in a previous career which are great but slightly fiddly to get just right.


Thank you SimonRafferty for the material suggestions above, that's really helpful - i'm hoping to keep everything as dry as possible to minimise corrosion effects!

Thanks again.
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What multi pin connectors do you EV builders like to use for talking to stuff outside of the pack?
Discovered Deutch connectors and love them. Very easy to assemble, waterproof, versatile, and more than one manufacturer. Comes in all kinds of pin counts.

Sample video
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Considering a flange mount connector like this for all the low voltage signals to and from my battery box.
Considering a flange mount connector like this for all the low voltage signals to and from my battery box.
And if you are using an Orion BMS then they recommend using gold plated pins on any connectors to ensure the BMS can measure cell resistance correctly, which you can get for the Deutsch connectors.
A
Discovered Deutch connectors and love them.
Ah great i'll have a look at those, cheers!

And if you are using an Orion BMS then they recommend using gold plated pins
A good point, however my BMS will be inside the pack so I won't need to sense cells outside of it in this case.
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Hello folks, could someone who is experienced with the Orion 2 BMS please have a quick look at the PDF i've attached, just to make sure i have got the black wires for the cell taps in the right place? The Orion wiring manual doesn't give a clear [to me] example for a battery bigger than 12 cells, page 50 is clear -ish but then it skips a whole bunch of cell taps with no explanation.

The output from the Orion BMS Wiring Diagram Generator seems to suggest that harness wire number 1 gets wired to both the + and - of cell 1, which is clearly a bad idea. 馃槅

Any help is appreciated! I think what i've got is correct...

Attachments

This is correct, I usually just go by groups of 12 and ignore the rest.

You are luckily with a module that has cells that fit into a nice block of 12. Try doing things with modules with 8 or 16 cells.

when I input it, things look fine to me.

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This is correct, I usually just go by groups of 12 and ignore the rest.

You are luckily with a module that has cells that fit into a nice block of 12. Try doing things with modules with 8 or 16 cells.

when I input it, things look fine to me.

View attachment 135274
Thanks very much for looking Tom, I appreciate it.

What got me is the difference in harness number between the diagrams and the real life labels on the harness. I thought maybe it was a formatting error in my web browser chopping off the negative sign, but they are still positive behind the scenes in the HTML/source of the webpage.

Here, if i joined harness wire "1" to both the most negative and cell 1's positive, i would have a little lightbulb on and in my hands..!

Font Line Finger Jewellery Pattern
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Hi,
Few hours late - I blame being down under in a time zone for the other side of the world

I have an Orion BMS2 in my Land Rover build with 7 Tesla Modules
My ORION BMS is the 48-S version (note the "-S")
I have this version so I can get the 7 modules split into 3 battery boxes and have fuses and disconnects in each box without any risk of a fuse blow or a disconnect also blowing the BMS

I will have one box each under passenger and drivers seats (2 modules each), and one under the bonnet (3 modules)
Each box will have an Amphenol MSDM5002 with 500A fuse and I have a Gigavac maintenance disconnect between the two seat boxes

I decided to set everything up on the 'bench' to check and finalise my design while I worked on removing the rust from the chassis and bulkhead
In this case the 'bench' is a rack holding the 150kg of batteries
Gas Electrical wiring Machine Electronic engineering Engineering


The table below is what I used to be doubly sure I had every thing right before I plugged in the BMS
As you have different battery modules (3S4P versus 6S74P in the Tesla bricks) the the battery cell numbers will be all wrong for you. Also if you have a different version BMS (ie a "48" versus a "48-S") then the "BMS Harness Connector" numbers in my table wont match your BMS and your 'disconnects' will need to be located differently to mine - but the pattern in my table might helpful

The wiring tool got me started - but like you I had to figure out the mystery 'minus' pins

The key thing for me was to watch the voltage rise by the right amount as I probed the connector pins very carefully BEFORE I plugged them into the ORION
I measured total voltage increase from pin "1-" as ground all the way up to and past 150V and wrote them down - its too easy to accept the number you see on the multi meter but when you commit it to paper your brain does a double check - Both times I had the wrong number it was because I had either probed the wrong pin, or read the meter wrong - the pencil and paper helped me
I then went back and measured each cell group's voltages using its own 'minus' pin as a 'local ground' to double double check

I then borrowed (hired) a Cell tap validator to be EXTRA sure I had it right
I had to wait for another week to get it and spend a few dollars but it was good insurance (it showed I was OK to go)

-Andrew

My BMS version:
Font House Slope Rectangle Parallel


And my spreadsheet
Pack NumberMolex plugMolex pinBattery nameBMS NameBMS Harness connectorBMS Harness groupBMS harness pinContinuity testBMS Harness colourtest Voltagemeasured Voltage
1​
1​
1​
Cell 1Cell 1
1​
1​
1​
orange3.7
1​
1​
2​
Cell 2Cell 2
1​
1​
2​
orange7.3
1​
1​
3​
Cell 3Cell 3
1​
1​
3​
orange11.0
1​
1​
4​
Cell 4Cell 4
1​
1​
4​
orange14.7
1​
1​
5​
Cell 5Cell 5
1​
1​
5​
orange18.3
1​
1​
6​
Cell 6Cell 6
1​
1​
6​
orange22.0
1​
1​
7​
negCell 1 minus
1​
1​
1-Black0
1​
1​
8​
x
1​
1​
9​
T1Thermo 1
1​
1​
10​
T2
1​
1​
11​
T2
1​
1​
12​
T1Thermo 1
2​
2​
1​
Cell 1Cell 7
1​
1​
7​
orange25.7
2​
2​
2​
Cell 2Cell 8
1​
1​
8​
orange29.3
2​
2​
3​
Cell 3Cell 9
1​
1​
9​
orange33.0
2​
2​
4​
Cell 4Cell 10
1​
1​
10​
orange36.7
2​
2​
5​
Cell 5Cell 11
1​
1​
11​
orange40.3
2​
2​
6​
Cell 6Cell 12
1​
1​
12​
orange44.0
2​
2​
7​
neg
2​
2​
8​
x
2​
2​
9​
T1Thermo 2
2​
2​
10​
T2
2​
2​
11​
T2
2​
2​
12​
T1Thermo 2
3​
3​
1​
Cell 1Cell 13
1​
2​
13​
red47.7
3​
3​
2​
Cell 2Cell 14
1​
2​
14​
red51.3
3​
3​
3​
Cell 3Cell 15
1​
2​
15​
red55.0
3​
3​
4​
Cell 4Cell 16
1​
2​
16​
red58.7
3​
3​
5​
Cell 5Cell 17
1​
2​
17​
red62.3
3​
3​
6​
Cell 6Cell 18
1​
2​
18​
red66.0
3​
3​
7​
negCell 13 minus
1​
2​
13-Black0.0
3​
3​
8​
x
3​
3​
9​
T1Thermo 3
3​
3​
10​
T2
3​
3​
11​
T2
3​
3​
12​
T1Thermo 3
4​
4​
1​
Cell 1Cell 19
1​
2​
19​
red69.7
4​
4​
2​
Cell 2Cell 20
1​
2​
20​
red73.3
4​
4​
3​
Cell 3Cell 21
1​
2​
21​
red77.0
4​
4​
4​
Cell 4Cell 22
1​
2​
22​
red80.7
4​
4​
5​
Cell 5Cell 23
1​
2​
23​
red84.3
4​
4​
6​
Cell 6Cell 24
1​
2​
24​
red88.0
4​
4​
7​
neg
4​
4​
8​
x
4​
4​
9​
T1Thermo 4
4​
4​
10​
T2
4​
4​
11​
T2
4​
4​
12​
T1Thermo 4
5​
5​
1​
Cell 1Cell 25
2​
4​
1​
orange91.7
5​
5​
2​
Cell 2Cell 26
2​
4​
2​
orange95.3
5​
5​
3​
Cell 3Cell 27
2​
4​
3​
orange99.0
5​
5​
4​
Cell 4Cell 28
2​
4​
4​
orange102.7
5​
5​
5​
Cell 5Cell 29
2​
4​
5​
orange106.3
5​
5​
6​
Cell 6Cell 30
2​
4​
6​
orange110.0
5​
5​
7​
negCell 25 minus
2​
4​
1-Black0.0
5​
5​
8​
x
5​
5​
9​
T1Thermo 5
5​
5​
10​
T2
5​
5​
11​
T2
5​
5​
12​
T1Thermo 5
6​
6​
1​
Cell 1Cell 31
2​
4​
7​
orange113.7
6​
6​
2​
Cell 2Cell 32
2​
4​
8​
orange117.3
6​
6​
3​
Cell 3Cell 33
2​
4​
9​
orange121.0
6​
6​
4​
Cell 4Cell 34
2​
4​
10​
orange124.7
6​
6​
5​
Cell 5Cell 35
2​
4​
11​
orange128.3
6​
6​
6​
Cell 6Cell 36
2​
4​
12​
orange132.0
6​
6​
7​
neg
6​
6​
8​
x
6​
6​
9​
T1Thermo 6
6​
6​
10​
T2
6​
6​
11​
T2
6​
6​
12​
T1Thermo 6
7​
7​
1​
Cell 1Cell 37
2​
5​
13​
red135.7
7​
7​
2​
Cell 2Cell 38
2​
5​
14​
red139.3
7​
7​
3​
Cell 3Cell 39
2​
5​
15​
red143.0
7​
7​
4​
Cell 4Cell 40
2​
5​
16​
red146.7
7​
7​
5​
Cell 5Cell 41
2​
5​
17​
red150.3
7​
7​
6​
Cell 6Cell 42
2​
5​
18​
red154.0
7​
7​
7​
negCell 37 minus
2​
5​
13-Black113.7
7​
7​
8​
x
7​
7​
9​
T1Thermo 7
7​
7​
10​
T2
7​
7​
11​
T2
7​
7​
12​
T1Thermo 7
7​
7​
1​
Cell 6Cell 42
2​
5​
19​
red154.0
7​
7​
1​
Cell 6Cell 42
2​
5​
20​
red113.7
7​
7​
1​
Cell 6Cell 42
2​
5​
21​
red0.0
7​
7​
1​
Cell 6Cell 42
2​
5​
22​
red0.0
7​
7​
1​
Cell 6Cell 42
2​
5​
23​
red0.0
7​
7​
1​
Cell 6Cell 42
2​
5​
24​
red0.0
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7
Progress update - Battery pack is up and running!

I got my cell taps all worked out and documented, thanks agmatthews for the inspiration. Here's what i came up with. I can't resize the table, sorry:
BMS ConnectorOrion Harness IDModule Cooling BlockModule IDCell inside ModuleConcatenate
C11-A1-1C1 / H1- / A / M1 / T-1
C11A11C1 / H1 / A / M1 / T1
C12A12C1 / H2 / A / M1 / T2
C13A13C1 / H3 / A / M1 / T3
C14A21C1 / H4 / A / M2 / T1
C15A22C1 / H5 / A / M2 / T2
C16A23C1 / H6 / A / M2 / T3
C17A31C1 / H7 / A / M3 / T1
C18A32C1 / H8 / A / M3 / T2
C19A33C1 / H9 / A / M3 / T3
C110A41C1 / H10 / A / M4 / T1
C111A42C1 / H11 / A / M4 / T2
C112A43C1 / H12 / A / M4 / T3
C113-C5-1C1 / H13- / C / M5 / T-1
C113C51C1 / H13 / C / M5 / T1
C114C52C1 / H14 / C / M5 / T2
C115C53C1 / H15 / C / M5 / T3
C116C61C1 / H16 / C / M6 / T1
C117C62C1 / H17 / C / M6 / T2
C118C63C1 / H18 / C / M6 / T3
C119C71C1 / H19 / C / M7 / T1
C120C72C1 / H20 / C / M7 / T2
C121C73C1 / H21 / C / M7 / T3
C122C81C1 / H22 / C / M8 / T1
C123C82C1 / H23 / C / M8 / T2
C124C83C1 / H24 / C / M8 / T3
C125-D9-1C1 / H25- / D / M9 / T-1
C125D91C1 / H25 / D / M9 / T1
C126D92C1 / H26 / D / M9 / T2
C127D93C1 / H27 / D / M9 / T3
C128D101C1 / H28 / D / M10 / T1
C129D102C1 / H29 / D / M10 / T2
C130D103C1 / H30 / D / M10 / T3
C131D103C1 / H31 / D / M10 / T3
C132D103C1 / H32 / D / M10 / T3
C133D103C1 / H33 / D / M10 / T3
C134D103C1 / H34 / D / M10 / T3
C135D103C1 / H35 / D / M10 / T3
C136D103C1 / H36 / D / M10 / T3
C21-B11-1C2 / H1- / B / M11 / T-1
C21B111C2 / H1 / B / M11 / T1
C22B112C2 / H2 / B / M11 / T2
C23B113C2 / H3 / B / M11 / T3
C24B121C2 / H4 / B / M12 / T1
C25B122C2 / H5 / B / M12 / T2
C26B123C2 / H6 / B / M12 / T3
C27B131C2 / H7 / B / M13 / T1
C28B132C2 / H8 / B / M13 / T2
C29B133C2 / H9 / B / M13 / T3
C210B141C2 / H10 / B / M14 / T1
C211B142C2 / H11 / B / M14 / T2
C212B143C2 / H12 / B / M14 / T3

I used the concatenated label column to print some heatshrink tubing, it made routing the wires much easier!


Also tin plated and coated my DIY busbars, the eTron module terminals are Tin plated so it's nice for them to match. I also used some Wurth copper terminal grease from ZeroEV

The plating setup: Pure tin anode (ebay), 1 molar Stannous Chloride in pH1 HCL. Note the tin fingers here, these grow more readily when using pure tin. keeping plating current below 900mA stopped them growing so fast. At 20A they appear almost instantly, it was quite cool to mess around with! I wouldn't drink it though.

Hand tool Tool Metalworking hand tool Gas Wood


Then 3 coats of plastidip, this is after the first coat. It dries extremely tough, i'm impressed with it.

Orange Wood Road surface Asphalt Composite material


First coat dry,,, you get the idea.
Wood Automotive tire Road surface Asphalt Bumper

I messed up the last coat as my dipping tray was running low.

Anyway lots of time, crimping, threadlock and adrenaline later we have a pack!
Gas Engineering Machine Technology Computer hardware


Computer Electricity Computer hardware Audio equipment Computer network



The BMS is now up and running, all cell taps are reporting in nicely. I've used 7 of the thermistor wires to sense one of the inbuilt eTron module thermistors in every other module, and the last one will be used as an outside air temperature sensor.


I've also got my 6.6kW CAN elcon charger hooked up, i have a slight problem with it in that despite being sent the correct command voltage from the BMS i.e. 176V or so, it does not supply more than 148.6 Volts (it also reports that its set voltage is 148.6V).
It does however charge up to that point. I discharged my pack to below this number, and sure enough when the type 2 plug is inserted the charger bursts in to life.

Today i'm gently discharging my pack down even more and will give the charger a good run this evening, hopefully logging its behaviour with the Orion software. I may then start a new thread documenting the issue. See here the difference between elcon message 1 (command) and 2(feedback) .

Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Circle


Font Parallel Rectangle Number Screenshot


Once i'm happy with the pack there is a lot of cable tieing and fixing to do, to hopefully prevent too much wire vibrations in use.

any CAN experts in the UK please reach out if you're bored! lol



Cheers
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Looking good!

On your example image should Byte 4 on the blue line be 鈥1鈥 to command 鈥渟tart charging鈥?
That would be listed as byte 5 in this document https://evwest.com/support/Elcon CAN Specification 2019.pdf

I have found you have to be careful with the byte order in Orion CAN messages (ie endian)
but your example looks ok
That would be listed as byte 5
Cheers! and yes i think that the byte order on that document is inconsistent with how the Orion PC software handles it. Byte orders on that doc start with 1, whereas Orion starts with zero (as it should be, in my opinion!)

I have only used the inbuilt Elcon integration in the orion software, i haven't 'coded' any of this myself
3
I鈥檓 using the stealthEV charger / dc-dc and the Orion inbuilt settings for that worked out of the box.

I鈥檝e have been expanding the Orion CAN data to interface via a micro controller to the hyper 9 controller, a display, and status LEDs on the type 2 charge connector.
eg
Font Gas Electronic device Menu Electric blue

Gadget Display device Gas Font Machine

Gadget Font Display device Electronic device Multimedia
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2
A quick update:

I have sorted my charger fiasco - turns out the charger i had was a different model to what i needed 馃槖 ZeroEV were very helpful in helping me source the correct charger, so thanks very much to them!

It also turned out that one of my battery modules had a bad cell, this only became apparent during a discharge test where the voltage would just avalanche below about 3.2V. So, i got in touch with EVbreakers.com and luckily they had one module left which they shipped out to me in 24 hours. So thanks to Calvin at EVbreakers too..!

I can finally say that my pack is now happy to be charged and discharged :) I'll secure all the cables inside and seal it up this week, then should be able to fit it on the weekend!

In the mean time i got my type 2 socket fitted....

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Motor vehicle


Also made a start fitting the charger under the seat, in a box where the fuel tank used to be. I'm hoping all HV stuff can fit in here (DCDC, motor drive & contactor, and charger) - it looks like it will.
I'll make an interlocked vented lid with ducts where the fans suck in - should make for some nice free heating in the winter!

In the UK it is generally cold and miserable 99% of the time so i'm not too worried about unwanted heat in the cabin.

Water Automotive tire Wood Gas Motor vehicle


I want to keep as much electronic stuff out of the weather and salt spray as possible, plus i know those little 120mm fans aren't up to the challenge!

I've foolilsly booked on to a/the London-Brighton EV Rally on the 1st July so i have my work cut out.
LOL

Cheers
Tom
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