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Series 2 Land Rover & Hyper 9 Direct to LT230 Build Thread

17762 Views 81 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  VintageVolts
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Hi Folks,
Long time lurker and learner here from the UK (South Wales), thought i'd start documenting my build as it slowly progresses.

The vehicle:
a 1961 Land Rover 88" Series 2 - bought brand new by my grandfather in 1961, then was passed down to my late father in the 80's, and on to me in 2009 where i stripped it back to the chassis and rebuilt it.

Here's one of my favourite pictures of it doing what it does best, i.e. being awesome! This was after arriving home from rescuing my sister during the 'Beast from the East' in... 2018 i think it was.
Vehicle Land vehicle Car Snow Tire


We've been pretty much everywhere in it including a guelling LEJOG and then the "North Coast 500" in Scotland a few years ago, and probably hundreds of camping trips.
Over the years it's had various different engines:
  1. Left the factory with a 2.25 petrol,
  2. Dad fitted a 2.8 V6 petrol Cologne engine in it in 1990-ish,
  3. I fitted a 2.5NA Diesel (cheap insurance at the time), as well as:
  4. 300TDi (great engine, not bad speed but noisy as hell)
  5. Essex V6 3.0 which i built EFi for using the Speeduino/Arduino platform, my build for that conversion is here on the speeduino forum. This is a pretty rapid engine but to be honest too fast for what it's in... the more you rev it the more power it seems to give, and it just gets scary. lol. It's also now extremely expensive to run! Also quite loud, and the engine weighs a ton being cast iron everything. I also have a stubby R380 gearbox squuzed in there.
I have disc brakes using the now defunct (as far as i know) YakYak classics conversion kit (defender discs, discovery calipers) and P38 power steering (range rover). So it's basically 99% original...
This is where my next adventure begins... A background from me - i work with 'smart buildings' mainly with comms including with lithium / other weird chemistry battery installations in grid connected buildings, so have a basic/fair idea of how not to burn my fingertips. Also am a keen CAD user as i also make prototype stuff at work - obviously Electric Vehicles are a whole new frontier for me so that's why i'm here! We have a bunch of different EV cars and vans at work so am familiar with the good and 'bad' bits of EV driving and charging.


As my Landy has an LT230 i started looking at ways to drive the transfer box directly with a motor rather than leave the original gearbox in place - this should leave me with a lot more room under the bonnet for a larger battery pack, with the motor tucked away somewhere in the transmission tunnel. I'll also save weight as the R380 is fairly hefty.

I like the look of the Hyper 9HV & controller, and see that Jaunt Electric Videos (YouTube vid) has used a hyper9, as well as This kit from Evolution Australia.

I've currently got a 1.667 ratio LT230 on my workbench which i'm rebuilding. This, coupled with my 3.54:1 diffs and 215/85/R16 tyres should give the following gearing in high range - see the MPH column i've added to the left in an expert way: basically 1mph is 66rpm at the motor.

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I expect to mostly use the Landy for commuting the 15 minutes / 7 miles to work, which means doing either 30mph or just under 70 which i currently do. I don't need it to be a rocket ship - i am aware this car is a tin shed on wheels, and it can already go extremely fast, but i just choose not to go that fast as i get older (wiser!). We also use the landy for camping, and christmas shopping where people are free to slam their car doors into my battered doors. lol


To make a start and because i needed a huge paperweight i decided to 3D print a full size dual shaft Hyper 9DHV motor, i like to have something hands on to chuck around with a tape measure in the other hand:
Wood Audio equipment Hardwood Gas Home appliance


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Needs some sanding or whatever but it certainly does the job!

To drive the LT230 from the motor requires a shaft adapter which i've drawn up and will hopefully get a quote for in the coming days. If anyone knows the exact spline designation for the R380 / LT77 mainshaft please speak up but i'm quite sure i've got it measured correctly. Shaft connector mockup:

Saw Tool Power tool Wood Machine tool


Measured the spline profile of a brand new shaft with a Keyence VHX-7000 microscope, which measures surface topography of 'stuff'. a very cool machine.


Back in the world of CAD i've got an assembly with a pre-prototype adapter plate and shaft converter:
Cylinder Font Rectangle Automotive lighting Engineering


Cutaway view: (are you bored of pictures yet? apologies). Aiming for the shaft converter to be a transition fit on to the keyed shaft, and held in place with the purple cap head bolt. Needs to be tight enough to stay concentric but not so tight that you can never get it off.
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Now, i was a bit worried about the shaft coupler not being meaty enough but a stress simulation (in Autodesk Inventor 2022) at 2000NM i.e. 10x max motor torque shows the 300M steel nowhere near its yield point, so this is good news. This simulation has motor torque applied at the keyway, and reactive torque applied on the surface of the splines.
Drinkware Cylinder Line Camera accessory Liquid

Also(!) the ZF gearbox to LT230 adapter used in some older range rovers(i.e. this ) has much thinner walls as well as sharp splines inside so we can only be on a winner here...!


To do in the short term: - get my LT230 to a CMM in the next few days, luckily my distant colleagues have one so i may shoot a few emails off tomorrow. So far i've measured the LT230 holes with a good set of calipers, verifying measurements as best i can with a laser cut 'gasket', but a CMM will tell us for sure:
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Automotive design Auto part



as for remaining hardware such as batteries, i'd like to use Tesla batteries as used in other Hyper 9 installs, I like the Tesla packs as they're water cooled and seem to be popular. As for BMS i'm leaning towards the Orion with the little cell breakout boards, but simpBMS has been mentioned too, and is less wiring -more googling required.

Charging: I really want to go down the 'smaller battery pack with quicker charger' design route but so far haven't found a solution above 6.6kW. CCS seems out of the window as my max battery voltage is going to be 144V to suit the Hyper 9 HV controller, i.e. the SME AC-X144 - and CCS minimum DC voltage is 200V at this moment in time. I see the Tesla Gen2 charger is 10kW or so but i don't think CAN is implemented just yet. It'll be a while before i have the cash to buy chargers, BMS and batteries so there's plenty of time to learn yet!

Thanks to those who have answered my questions on other posts here, and thanks to all of you who have taken the time to make youtube videos.
Cheers
Tom

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Hi
Look great with what you are achieving, was going Tesla route, but yours might be the better options, I have already source Tesla parts
Watch out for dissimilar metals in contact. I see aluminum in contact with steel and no isolators in between in this thread.

In salt spray, the aluminum may crumble to a powder, especially if it is alloyed with copper as some aviation alloys are.

Yeah - brushless computer fans are open to environmental attack. There's no seal.

Brighton...tough neighborhood as far as a place to break down goes 😛
Someone knows correct engineering practices.
Watch out for dissimilar metals in contact.
Yep thanks for this, There are indeed lots of places where the birmabright can contact the steel - i like to use plastic milk bottle walls cut into big/yuge oversize washers wherever possible, or at the least some Buzzweld anti corrosion paint inbetween. The ally sheet (well technically it is a Mg-Al alloy) on the older series land rovers corrodes much less readily than the shite found on defenders.

Progresswise i have been focusing on getting all the 12V wiring done as i have started from scratch. I have tarted up the dashboard and loads of mechanical stuff - steering column put back to original, new door tops, new front panel, made good a poor repair that i did on the bonnet[hood] years ago. And chassis waxed everything! haven't updated this thread as it's not very EV-ey.

My instagram is boltsnjolts if you want to see a million photos of this. lol

Aiming to spin the motor up over the easter break!
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It's still in the scope of the conversion, so I, for one, would not consider the general restoration as thread clutter in pic moderation, of course. That, and some of us refuse to feed Zuck-oleon.

Even posting seemingly minor stuff like the milk bottle as galvanic isolators is a resourceful approach that is cheap yet functional and could prove useful to builders as a source of tough polypropylene, not to mention highlighting the NEED for galvanic isolation for corrosion mitigation, which some here actively dismiss offhand or have builds and Youtube videos that are oblivious to it.

Canadians, with their milk bags, are SOL, though 😛
Someone knows correct engineering practices.
Obviously, you don't know much about Land Rovers. That's fine. Galvanic corrosion is something that is universal to old Landys because they mixed aluminum and steel with no isolation and in some cases not even paint. It was a necessity of WW2 austerity that became just how the vehicle was built. Therefore your comments about galvanic corrosion etc are humorous and shine some light on your ignorance of the vehicle in question, however valid your point may be.
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As usual, you employ deception and twist context to cover your tracks.

I said nothing about Land Rovers. This was the context to which I was responding:
Rectangle Gas Urban design Electrical wiring Engineering

Which is extremely obvious:
Watch out for dissimilar metals in contact. I see aluminum in contact with steel and no isolators in between in this thread.

In salt spray, the aluminum may crumble to a powder, especially if it is alloyed with copper as some aviation alloys are.

Yeah - brushless computer fans are open to environmental attack. There's no seal.

Brighton...tough neighborhood as far as a place to break down goes 😛
Pay attention. Fall on your sword as needed.
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As usual, you employ deception and twist context to cover your tracks.

I said nothing about Land Rovers. This was the context to which I was responding:
View attachment 136529
Which is extremely obvious:

Pay attention. Fall on your sword as needed.
Yes, you failed to mention it because you did not make the connection. Anyone who knows the first thing about old Landys is the galvanic corrosion so the joke it sitting there waiting to be said.

I said it and you didn't recognize joke.

Now you are trying to cover your tracks over a joke :unsure: Still missing the joke...
ELC was just pointing out that Land Rover owners are well versed is dissimilar metals causing corrosion as it's the main cause of our vehicle bodies falling apart. No need for the condescending tone and bickering, I just want to see cool EV stuff 🤣
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10
Just dropping in to say this project is very much still alive!
In a nutshell: rewired the entire car, 12V and all. I now have a 12 fuse fusebox and 8 relays, it is pretty much a Tesla now. 😆
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Made side-instrument panel for the SME display and drive switch:
Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire Steering wheel Automotive exterior



refurbed the leaf springs as they were frozen solid - advice to previous me: do not keep the sides on the gazebo through the winter... it becomes a kind of accelerated, high moisture corrosion shed. here's a picture of a rusty, disassembled leaf spring.
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Made a new transmission tunnel. The main goal here was to maximise the airflow around the motor, hence its size:
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire Bumper Hood

The hi/low gear linkage was taken from the cable driven Discovery 2 TD5 selector (the non-CDL version). linked by a 3" rod. Simple and effective! The difflock is a simple rotary affair - i 3D printed a yellow knob with a slot in the top... straight ahead = no difflock, and 2 O'clock position = diff locked.
The diff in this transfer case is an auto locking / 'ATB' type diff but it's nice to have full difflock available too.

It is now tarted up with some seam sealer on my shit welds, primer/paint, Dodo mat and stretch carpet for camper vans. I'm not going too overboard with the carpet - this is an old land rover and leaks like a sieve..! Need to make some gaiters next.
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Under the drivers seat i've got a cover for the HV stuff, i managed to get the DCDC, AC charger and motor drive in the one box. I have since added rivnuts and screwed it down..!
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Additional cowl for the fans,to stop crap falling in and jamming the fans. I should make another one for the mesh, as dust and stuff will no doubt find its way in there.
Hood Road surface Automotive tire Asphalt Automotive exterior

I was worried about the charger or DCDC not being able to breathe and get too warm, but in practice they are just fine which is great!

I've been on a few test drives now, wow what a difference! it certainly accelerates!
I can now hear all of the other rattles that exist (windows, loose tools, 450 tonnes of crap in the back) all rattling around. haha.

On my todo list is sort the regen braking out - under anything but light regen i get an error from the motor drive, something like "key voltage is higher than some other voltage", I can't quite remember what it is but i need to read the Hyper 9 thread on here before asking any new questions. I also can't get my SME dashboard display to cycle through the E-S-H modes but am sure it is just a software setting that i haven't discovered yet!

Next is just cosmetic things, I repaired my sills, on which the front most bracket had corroded. brackets now replaced:
Wood Road surface Gas Asphalt Tints and shades


Wood Road surface Hood Asphalt Automotive exterior

Automotive parking light Tire Vehicle Wheel Car



That's enough for now!
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On my todo list is sort the regen braking out - under anything but light regen i get an error from the motor drive, something like "key voltage is higher than some other voltage", I can't quite remember what it is but i need to read the Hyper 9 thread on here before asking any new questions. I also can't get my SME dashboard display to cycle through the E-S-H modes but am sure it is just a software setting that i haven't discovered yet!
I’ve found the “key volts” data on the Hyper9 seems to be a bit misleading when you have the H9 HV version.

From memory, on the normal H9 the actual key voltage is full pack DC voltage, but on the HV one you only apply 12V via the key. But in the SME software, the motor controller data for key voltage ( for the HV motor) shows in some places as pack voltage and elsewhere as the 12V system voltage. It’s like they built the software for the lower voltage motor and couldn’t be bothered fixing it for the HV motor.

I have been working with both the H9 HV CAN bus data and with the windows software and they are definitely not consistent in how they refer to “key voltage”

This is all from memory as I’m away from the shed this week, so can’t guarantee accuracy.
Just giving a heads up that the key voltage message from the controller might not be what it seems.

Nice work on the beast, I like that you are keeping the patina for now.

- Andrew
Thanks, yes i will be keeping the patina, might polish it a bit for the France rally in 7 weeks (!), my 'motto' for this, not that i have one, is "what does an EV look like?"

One day i want to get it ice blasted back to the original paint underneath, the two additional colours aren't held on very well.

We need to move away from the fancy touchscreens, super shiny paint and go back to clicky buttons! haha.

vive le EV shitbox
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We need to move away from the fancy touchscreens, super shiny paint and go back to clicky buttons! haha.
what about this….?
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I rekindled my fuel gauge (which has been broken for about 40 years), with a micro hobby servo and a little DFrobot Beetle. Reads the 0-5V voltage output by the Orion BMS 2.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Steering part Steering wheel Rim


Not sure if this youtube short will work but here's a link!

The needle is just a bit of 1.75mm 3D printer filament with the end dipped in UV nail varnish, and the other end superglued on to a trimmed down servo horn.

I recently discovered the Adafruit CAN PAL which is a tiny CAN board. My future plan is to run the fuel gauge off CAN and convert the existing ammeter (also broken) to show + and - battery current.

The hobby servo works well but is annoyingly noisy, even the slightest blip is annoying. I need to update the code to only move by CoV (change of value), it should move less often then. I've heard that you can buy the correct stepper motors for car gauges but the form factor doesn't suit my gauge!
e.g. this Automotive Gauge Stepper Motor (x27.168)
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My gauges are decoding data off CAN (both BMS and HY9 messages) and the one device is driving the two old gauges (temp and fuel) and the OLED embedded in where the old alternator charge fail light used to be (main beam on your gauges)
The micro controller is an Adafruit M4 CAN express doing the CAN decoding, with a Adafruit motor shield driving the original land rover gauges at approx 0 to 10 Volts. The OLED is held in place with a 3D printed mount using the original screw holes. The OLED can be programmed to show any data that will fit on the area of the screen that is visible within the original gauge shape .

My philosophy, at the moment, is that the screen will be just a simple indicator that everything is OK (green light), or a red light indicating that you need to look under the bonnet, or plug a laptop in.

Here is the bench test set up
(using data from a PC via USB rather CAN in this example)
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under the bonnet I have the same type of micro controller with a bigger screen …. and all the numbers you could want
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I guess you could use the other 2 channels on the motor driver for panel/cabin lighting?
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I guess you could use the other 2 channels on the motor driver for panel/cabin lighting?
I’m planning on using some addressable LEDs for panel/gauge lighting, driven from the micro controller (neo pixels)
I already have the micro controller under the bonnet driving the red and green lights on the type 2 charge port while charging. It’s tempting to put some of these in the ‘jewel’ indicators in the speedo, just not sure what to indicate there.
I’m planning on using some addressable LEDs for panel/gauge lighting, driven from the micro controller (neo pixels)
I already have the micro controller under the bonnet driving the red and green lights on the type 2 charge port while charging. It’s tempting to put some of these in the ‘jewel’ indicators in the speedo, just not sure what to indicate there.
I was inspired by your post in February and started collecting some hardware.
My goal is to have the stock instrumentation - all 12vdc signals and mechanical speedo off the transfer case. Then parallel those signals to a can bus feeding a Lilygo T-RGB 2.1” round display (HMI). I plan to have selectable gauges in a Land Rover style such as speed, temp, RPM, amperage, battery %… Hopefully I can place it in a nice discrete location.

What is your micro controller?. I still haven’t decided on mine - I’m thinking about using an Arduino mega I already have but maybe a new giga or even the adafruit rp2040 can bus feather. Seems like a new choice comes out every day. And I am happy to hear that the amps and fuel gauges are only looking for 0~10 volt signal which should make it fairly straightforward.
What is your micro controller?.
I use the Adafruit Feather M4 CAN Express

This lets you then use their plug and play ‘wings’ like the Adafruit Stepper + DC Motor FeatherWing that I use to drive the old Smiths / Jaeger gauges

The Adafruit gear is a bit more expensive than what you can get direct from AliExpress and other places, but you know you have an organisation that is trying to engineer a quality product, rather than just sell you a product and move on.

The CAN board was out of stock for over a year due to parts availability, I had one, but wanted spares, recently Adafruit has had then back in stock in batches, but they sell out quickly.

There are plenty of other choices out there… I just picked this one
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