In the linked page, you note:I have put together a list of the cars current 12v systems including those that have been removed and estimated the total sum of the fuses.
That's not the only factor. Even if you listed the maximum current for each circuit, the total would still be higher than the peak total current, and far higher than the average... because everything is not 'on' at the same time.Obviously the alternator could not keep up with all the fuse ratings, anyone know what rule of thumb they use for rated use vs. rated fuse?
The charge and discharge rates will be different than a starting battery on an ICE. However, and this is assuming you're using a lead-acid 12v battery, your charging system (aka your DC-DC converter) still has to sit at a voltage higher than the batteries nominal voltage (of 12.6v) to get it recharged. Usually around 14 volts. Depending on how low the battery was it could take a few dozen amps initially, then tapper off to a float charge of one amp or so. At which point the battery is acting as a buffer for the load on the charging system, but lead acid is still a bit of bottom-less pit. You'll have to dial your DC-DC converter to a voltage higher than the battery's nominal voltage, and the charge feed never drops to zero amps.I don't see how the battery is a load.
Yes, but not much, once you're driving...The charge and discharge rates will be different than a starting battery on an ICE.
All great information, well described. Perhaps I should have been more clear in my comment...However, and this is assuming you're using a lead-acid 12v battery, your charging system (aka your DC-DC converter) still has to sit at a voltage higher than the batteries nominal voltage (of 12.6v) to get it recharged. Usually around 14 volts. Depending on how low the battery was it could take a few dozen amps initially, then tapper off to a float charge of one amp or so. At which point the battery is acting as a buffer for the load on the charging system, but lead acid is still a bit of bottom-less pit. You'll have to dial your DC-DC converter to a voltage higher than the battery's nominal voltage, and the charge feed never drops to zero amps.