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Is the Solition 1000A continuous current spec for motor Amps or battery Amps? I checked the manual and here but didn't see it. Thanks.
Either/both. On p4 of the manual - Specs - it does indicate that the 1000A rating applies over all duty cycles (i.e. - 0-100%.. ok, not 0%, obviously...). I have to do a major overhaul of the manual here real soon to cover all the stuff added to the software... maybe I should change the wording to make this clearer? It seemed pretty clear to me, but, then again, it's hard to look at this from the perspective of someone totally unfamiliar with the product.Is the Solition 1000A continuous current spec for motor Amps or battery Amps? I checked the manual and here but didn't see it. Thanks.
Either/both. On p4 of the manual - Specs - it does indicate that the 1000A rating applies over all duty cycles (i.e. - 0-100%.. ok, not 0%, obviously...). I have to do a major overhaul of the manual here real soon to cover all the stuff added to the software... maybe I should change the wording to make this clearer? It seemed pretty clear to me, but, then again, it's hard to look at this from the perspective of someone totally unfamiliar with the product.
That is not the case with the Soliton1, however: it's rated for 1000A, motor or battery, period.... So if the Soliton is rated at 1000 amps from the batteries it could be putting out 3000 amps to the motor....
Indeed... it is also 1000 battery amps. Buck converters can run at 100% duty cycle, you know.So it is 1000 motor amps...
What are the motor amps when the battery amps are 1000? It's still the motor current limit.Indeed... it is also 1000 battery amps. Buck converters can run at 100% duty cycle, you know.
That is not the case with the Soliton1, however: it's rated for 1000A, motor or battery, period.
I have to admit that I am a bit puzzled, and distressed, that there is any misunderstanding about this. I thought we went to great pains to point out that if you keep the controller under 55C you can have 1000A all day long at any duty cycle you please. Batteries and motors both turn to slag when subjected to the merciless punishment dished out by a liquid-cooled Soliton1. That's how we roll![]()
Yeah, and it is still the battery current limit, too... so once again I ask: what exactly are you trying to get at here? I've already agreed with you; yet you seem to keep trying to point something out so... what is it?What are the motor amps when the battery amps are 1000? It's still the motor current limit.
Worried about the competition?Gentlemen,
Looking for more feedback on this subject. Is 1000amps continuous better than short boosts of 2000 amps?
Lets compare to the Zilla which so many love. How long does the Zilla controller hold 2000amps? and when the Zilla 2K drops how low does she go?![]()
Not at all. I have read the Yahoo NEDRA board and just had a long conversation with my cousin about crapping on Zilla controllers. He is not experienced in EV's, he was just firing back towards the attack on our EV Album page. He does not speak for the ECEDRA Association.Worried about the competition?
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What I have learned, whether it is correct or not, is that the amps to the motor from the controller will always be higher than or equal to the battery amps. From what I have learned, amps to the motor will never be lower than battery amps.
For a controller to put less current to the motor than what is coming from the batteries it would have to increase the voltage above that of the battery pack since the equation has to balance
Voltage x amps in = voltage x amps out (minus of course internal losses). As far as I know, no controller out there does that.
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That depends... Are trying to go 300 mph on the salt flats or get down the 1/4 mile in 10 seconds?Looking for more feedback on this subject. Is 1000amps continuous better than short boosts of 2000 amps?