Maybe we need to get an electrical engineer in on this discussion.
What I have learned, whether it is correct or not, is that the amps to the motor from the controller will always be higher than or equal to the battery amps. From what I have learned, amps to the motor will never be lower than battery amps.
For a controller to put less current to the motor than what is coming from the batteries it would have to increase the voltage above that of the battery pack since the equation has to balance
Voltage x amps in = voltage x amps out (minus of course internal losses). As far as I know, no controller out there does that.
So it the Soliton is rated at 1000 amps max you might as well say that is max amps to motor to avoid confusion.
For example I have an NetGain Impulse 9 in my EV. At 1000 rpm it was accepting only about 48 volts from the controller. (I had a voltmeter connected to the motor input) If my 120 volt battery pack was putting out 200 amps at max throttle the controller was putting out 800 amps which was its maximum rating. I had a Kelly 800 amp controller at that time. (not continuous).
If there is something wrong with my calculations please chime it. None of the EV books and manuals talk about the fact that at low rpm the series wound motors do not accept full battery pack voltage. The maximum current limit of the controller then become critical when accelerating from a start.
I started with a Curtis 400 amp controller and was very surprised that when starting from 0 mph, the battery pack current never went higher than 150 amps. The controller was putting out 400 amps, but only at 48 volts which means I had only 1/4 of the power I thought I would have.

