FYI - Users may find it more convenient if you were to upload the photos using the attachments feature. That will generate thumbnails and allow for more photos on individual posts. Just look for the paperclip when creating a post.
FYI - Users may find it more convenient if you were to upload the photos using the attachments feature. That will generate thumbnails and allow for more photos on individual posts. Just look for the paperclip when creating a post.
There's some places where you can lose quite a bit more weight, if you want maximum performance. The front clip is the factory Gen II Camaro subframe, meaning this is a back-halved car. The problem is that front clip is about 200-300lbs too heavy for what it offers in a drag car.
Weld in an Alston front clip, and chop the rest of the steel cowl and firewall out (replace it with aluminum). That's the link to a 2x3-inch clip that can run on the street. If it's all all-drag, and baby's-bottom smooth street, car you can use the round-tube clip to lighten it even more.
Not really a big deal, just wanted to point it out. I had a 2nd gen that I was building for handling, so I kept the factory front clip. I did some fiberglass work for a guy building a 2nd gen drag car that also had the factory subframe. He did the tubular arms, etc, and kicked himself in the end because he didn't lose much weight, but spent almost as much money as the whole clip would have been. Since the whole car is already set up it's really pretty simple to cut that clip out and weld the Alston clip in place of it. That's a 1-2 day job for a good chassis shop. The weight is in the frame and spindles, not so much in the arms....decided (because we bought it already welded) that we will use lighter front control arms...
There's some places where you can lose quite a bit more weight, if you want maximum performance. The front clip is the factory Gen II Camaro subframe, meaning this is a back-halved car. The problem is that front clip is about 200-300lbs too heavy for what it offers in a drag car.
Weld in an Alston front clip, and chop the rest of the steel cowl and firewall out (replace it with aluminum). That's the link to a 2x3-inch clip that can run on the street. If it's all all-drag, and baby's-bottom smooth street, car you can use the round-tube clip to lighten it even more.
Not really a big deal, just wanted to point it out. I had a 2nd gen that I was building for handling, so I kept the factory front clip. I did some fiberglass work for a guy building a 2nd gen drag car that also had the factory subframe. He did the tubular arms, etc, and kicked himself in the end because he didn't lose much weight, but spent almost as much money as the whole clip would have been. Since the whole car is already set up it's really pretty simple to cut that clip out and weld the Alston clip in place of it. That's a 1-2 day job for a good chassis shop. The weight is in the frame and spindles, not so much in the arms.
You're probably going to need a (numerically) lower gear ratio for sure, if you have the battery pack to get there. What's the diameter of the rear tires? It usually takes a 32-33" to fill up a 2nd gen rear half. Looks like that's what they are.
Thanks. I'm kind of hiding in plain sight. I had a shop but closed the business and sold it. Trying to figure out where I want to go next....I have just viewed your website, very impressive...
Thanks. I'm kind of hiding in plain sight. I had a shop but closed the business and sold it. Trying to figure out where I want to go next.
I'm having fun with electric, but I'm not a true save-the-planet, convert-the-world, type. I just like how clean the powertrain can be, and and the torque.
As I said, the front clip isn't really a big deal. I just didn't know if you were aware of it, and wanted to point it out in case you end up looking to lose a couple hundred pounds. It can actually be done any time, even in the middle of the season - if the shop is good.
I edited my post to say clean looking. The electric motor in my street rod gives me a very compact (with lithium cells) powertrain, with traditional cooling, intake, and exhaust, systems to plumb.
I'm far from bored with ICE though. My heart still skips a beat, my pulse quickens, and an involuntary smile splits my face every time I hear a sexy ICE slinging C02 into the atmosphere!![]()
I have put all your photos into your first post. It will tidy things up for you.Okay, will use that option next time.![]()
I have put all your photos into your first post. It will tidy things up for you.![]()
Team Lithiumaniacs has hired Bill Scrivener of Scrivener Performance Engineering. He has over 30 years in drag racing experience, he has custom built drag racing chassis for many teams still racing today.
His recommendations for our 1981 Camaro dragster are:
* New fiberglass doors, trunk lid, and one piece nose.
* Custom built motor brackets moving the motors closer to the rear.
* Custom built battery boxes.
* Tube front controll arms (will save 50lbs).
* Two additional rool cage bars.
* New ring and pinion matching the motor and wheels.
etc.....pictures coming on modifications and assembly!![]()
Agreeing with David here. Compared to the weight of a V8 and transmission, your siamese Warp 11s are already removing a significant amount of weight from the front, in effect moving weight back. That's as much as you get from me for free though.I'm not claiming to be a drag racing or EV expert, but here's a couple things that jumped to mind:
Since batteries are heavy, and can be put almost anywhere, I wouldn't think you'd need to move the motors, just move the pack back a little more. You can also build an oversized battery box, and move batteries forward or back, fill the empty space with foam or something, to adjust weight balance...
It's important on any vehicle, but crucial on a dragbike like Killacycle, because there are two wheels, spaced relatively close together, and a lot of power. Plus, he's on a wrinkle wall, which expands and contracts on and off power. Weight bias, height, CG, etc, are all important though. Cars are just much more forgiving - especially when you bounce off the wall!...Bill Dube ( NEDRA Killacycle record setter) also says the height of the pack is important for tuning...
You can ballpark the ratio pretty good with some simple calculations, but will likely have to fine tune (buy more ring and pinion sets) for the last few tenths....What ring and pinion is he recommending? On what basis? Why not get some data with the existing gear first? That's something that is just as easily changed after the conversion to electric power...