[pfoxhound]

Deutsch DT 6 Pin Gray Connector Kit w/ 20-16 AWG Solid Contacts 691054582392 | eBay

X6 0460-202-16141 - 20-16 AWG (0.5-1.0 mm. x6 0462-201-16141 - 20-16 AWG (0.5-1.0 mm. x1 W6P - 6 Pin Male Wedge Lock. x1 W6S - 6 Pin Female Wedge Lock. ).

www.ebay.com

 

[arturk]

Female connector for control signals is Sumitomo P/N: 6189-1240

8-Way Kit

Motorsport electrical products: OEM and hard to find terminals and connector kits, wiring, harness supplies, tooling, and sensors for modern and vintage motorcycle, automotive applications. Easy online shopping, low cost shipping options, to expedited around the world. We accept Paypal and...

www.corsa-technic.com

 

[arturk]

Can someone please share details on polarity (+/-) of the orange High Voltage connector?

 

[oudevolvo]

Thanks for confirming the control connector! I shared that with @jsimonkeller in a PM but since mine is not in yet I was not 100% sure and only wanted to post online once I did. Regarding the HV, I think the left one is HV+ and the right one is HV-

But then the next question is: What is the HV connector? Will look into that.

 

[arturk]

Thanks for quick response on polarity, this was last bit of information preventing me from testing my compressor.

As far as control plug I happened to use those Sumitomo connectors a lot since they are used in Lexus/Toyota. Very nice to work with and readily available.
HV connector is another story. Those again are used on Lexus/Toyota hybrids. I would love to know who makes those and where to get them from. If anyone knows please share the info.
I have compressor high voltage cable from Lexus GS450H (Denso ES27C) which has the right plug so I am going to use it on this project.

 

[Davidmansor]

What are you using for the high voltage battery? How is it charged? I’m trying to put a Tesla compressor in a 79 Winnebago Brave with a Carrier EM-7 evaporator and CM 2 condenser.

This is connected to the HV battery (360V) via a contactor. PWM control input is 12VDC. Current draw at maximum load is in the neighbourhood of 12 amps @ 360V, so somewhere around 4.5kW draw.

 

[remy_martian]

You have 110V appliances in a motorhome.

Why on earth would you use a 360V compressor when you can repackage a $130 5,000BTU 110V window unit or two?

EDIT: or 240V mains if you're across the pond

 

[Davidmansor]

Well the idea was I wanted to be able to use it without the generator being on or the home being plugged in. I thought the ones from electric cars like a Tesla we’re running on 12v so that was possible. I could run the Ac when we were driving with no generator, plugged in, or on the generator.

if I go with a repackaged fridge or AC one, I guess that would work but the idea was flexibility. . .

 

[remy_martian]

No. You need around 12 amps at 360V to run the Tesla compressor. The 12V is only to control it.

 

[Davidmansor]

I understand that now.

so a 134a compressor from a commercial fridge should work? And I should just run it hotwire and switch in from the 110v panel?

like it could be that simple?

I think I read it’s possible to have two condensers in a system? Could I try to put a compressor on the motor, and a second compressor on this 110 V circuit?

If that’s possible I could have AC, while driving without generator, while plugged in and when the gen is on.

 

[Wojtek]

I just saw the:
Benling 27cc a/c scroll compressor (from evtv.me)

It states it's 15,700 Btu...
Anybody got an idea how many BTUs are "typical" 2017 vehicles?
Something like a Toyota Corolla, not a Cadillac Escalade.
Any thoughts on the BTU number of those systems?

Probably 48v. I doubt that government would allow such device to work on 400v with simple orange wire sleeve. Get a variable voltage controller and keep applying higher n higher voltage.

 

[Classic Style]

Howdy all, I'm fairly new to this forum, but wanted to give back since I've only been lurking for the last 2 months.
I built a small touch-screen interface that runs on an Arduino Mega 2560 R3 which acts like a climate control system for Tesla PWM-based A/C compressors based on the specs in this thread. Here's a simple run-down of its functionality:
OVERVIEW

1. On boot-up, it will start in "Auto" mode, and update the interior and exterior temps. Interior is designed to represent your vehicle's interior, and exterior should be obvious
2. The "Auto" button will go into whichever mode it needs to after a few seconds once temps are checked against the "desired" temp.
3. The PWM output of the arduino needs to go through an H-bridge to step up to 12v for the A/C compressor signal wire, I used a L298N easily found on Amazon (Amazon.com: WMYCONGCONG 5 PCS L298N Motor Drive Controller Board Module Dual H Bridge DC Stepper Module for Arduino: Computers & Accessories)
4. I'm going to use a BTS7960 driver module to power the blower motor in my under-dash A/C unit. That logic hasn't been written but will be in a few days, because I want this control panel to do everything HVAC on the vehicle.
5. Pressing the blue down arrow will drive the desired temp down, and make the A/C run more, the red arrow will do the inverse. If the desired temp is achieved, the system goes to sleep.
   1. I may need to improve this logic a little bit to let the temp go one degree Fahrenheit past the desired temp to keep the system from cycling constantly and killing the traction battery faster than it should, since I imagine start up is considerably higher current than running.
6. Pressing the "Off" button will send the system to sleep. Pressing the Sleep button or either temperature change button will wake the system into it's proper state.
7. You will soon be able to control the blower motor power by using the Fan - / Fan + buttons.
8. While in "Cool mode" the arduino outputs a 122.55Hz PWM that scales with fan intensity from 5% duty cycle at a delta of 5 degrees from desired temp, up to 85% at 1 degree from delta. When the system goes into sleep, off, or heating mode, the output pin goes "LOW".

Here's a reference photo of the UI

To Do Still:

1. Setup PWM on pin 45 to drive the BTS7960, which will operate the blower motor as mentioned in #4
2. Drive the electric heating coil relay so heat mode actually does something other than turn the "Auto" button red...
3. Maybe futz with the UI a little bit to make it cleaner. I'm no UI designer, but I recognize this is almost as utilitarian as it gets.
4. Improve the responsiveness for the touchscreen with better main loop optimization.
5. 3D printable housing for all the components.

B.O.M.

• Arduino Mega 2560 R3
• MCUFriend 6890 2.8" LCD Touch Shield for Arduino (This order comes with an extra shield and Arduino Uno R3 that are pretty unnecessary for this project)
• 2x 4.7kOhm resistors
• 2x DS18B20 water-resistant thermistor probes with breakout boards
• 1x L298N H-Bridge driver
• 1x BTS7960 43A Driver
• Tesla Model S / X PWM-based A/C Compressor
• A/C under-dash evaporator kit sans compressor (this is what I intend to use)

Here's my Arduino platform.io project folder. It's a little large cause it includes libraries I ended up not needing or weren't compatible with my touch screen. If you use a different touchscreen, try to get one that is compatible with URTouch, as it's a very nice library.

If anyone feels so inclined, here's my bitcoin address
btc: 3PdnT2GpKpkB86kwPas9NhZHCbPHK41c97

If you have feedback, please let me know!!

 

[remy_martian]

Very nice. Thanks for offering the share.

I did use the word "offering" - you forgot to enable access to your G drive, lol.

thanks!

 

[jsimonkeller]

Howdy all, I'm fairly new to this forum, but wanted to give back since I've only been lurking for the last 2 months.
I built a small touch-screen interface that runs on an Arduino Mega 2560 R3 which acts like a climate control system for Tesla PWM-based A/C compressors based on the specs in this thread. Here's a simple run-down of its functionality:

If you have feedback, please let me know!!

Very cool! I just requested access to the Google Drive folder to check this out. For my build, I am also using an Eberspacher 6KW High Voltage PTC Coolant Heater out of a Karma Fisker, which is PWM controlled and I wonder if this would work for the heater control as well.

 

[Classic Style]

Thanks for that, I updated the link with the now public sharing.