I was actually thinking that initially, having one heater for each system. Figuring out the electrical accommodations for a second water heater would be the only bridge to cross. The use of the heater for the HVAC would be minimal as a majority of the time the vehicle I am building would be a fair weather driver. The only exceptions would be the crisp dry fall days and any cool dry spring days. I may just go that route. Thanks for your input!Another advantage of the water heater is that in theory you can use it for both cabin and batteries (if thermal control with fluid).
However. I would not recommend that.
Simplicity with two dedicated devices in my view outweighs the benefits of one device with complex controls and valves.
Nope.I think the only issue with a development board is having a solid power supply that can handle awful vehicle power, (ideally hardware) watchdog functionality, waterproof & EMF blocking enclosure. The good dev boards aren't really that sensitive to an automotive environment. That said, someone must market a microcontroller for this application...
It's not "Arduino products". It's using components not intended for automotive applications. An Arduino board is not designed for auto use. Developing using the Arduino IDE and prototyping using an Arduino board is ok. Putting an Arduino board in your engine bay (ICE present or removed) would be bad practice.I am all about hearing others experiences with certain products and avoiding any pitfalls. Do you have bad experiences with Arduino products on things you have built? Do you have any recommended alternatives?
As the saying goes, you learn something every day! That's good to know there are components with different ratings. I will be sure to pay close attention to that if I go that route. Thanks for the info to both Remy and Asymtonic!Except the one I posted rated from -40C to 150C. But don't go out of your way to read anything tonight.
Edit: and yes, there is a difference between the mc and a dev board, which is just that, a dev board, not for actually placing in the finished product, before you jump to conclusions.
There is a half-way point, services like OSHPark will fabricate a PCB with your design on it for not too much. As mentioned above, it's really about the ancillary components feeding your microcontroller for power protection and the like. And as myself and D&V note, not using your own electronics to run anything safety related.There is also the option of laying out the Arduino board and once one has it functioning the way they want it, take it to an electronics manufacturer and have them make a more hearty and compact version. It will have a cost for sure but hey, maybe it can turn into the first open source controller for coolant valves!
Yes. Even with an ICE that has a faulty thermostat which drops the temp to 60degC, the heater almost stops working completely. Needs 80C to be a useful cabin heater, anything less and it'll need a massive radiator inside.For what it's worth, I don't think the coolant in an EV gets nearly hot enough to heat the cabin on it's own just from battery/motor/electronics heat.
Lucky you on the voltage. All kinds of appliances heat water at what is essentially 110VDC...What coolant heater are you using?
In my own build I've looked at the OEM ones but of course they're all made to run at 400v. I have a 100v Hyper9, so that's not an option for me unfortunately. Unless I make a boost converter for just the coolant heater...
Any thoughts here?
For what it's worth, I don't think the coolant in an EV gets nearly hot enough to heat the cabin on it's own just from battery/motor/electronics heat. And heating liquid is far less efficient than heating air. Ceramic heating element is the way to go for cabin heat, its instantly hot and very simple.
Any thoughts here?