[mtrehy]

Hi,

Did you complete this build? Would be interested to see where you ended up with the rear suspension and tesla drive...

Cheers

 

[mtrehy]

Thanks @gregski. I just watched that series recently. It was very cool, but unfortunately doesn't help with my project. He uses the complete Tesla subframe and I'm trying to narrow the track width significantly.

I've got the tesla LDU and rear track of just 55" but it is completely custom design suspension, wishbones, uprights etc.

 

[mtrehy]

Any chance of some pictures, mtrehy?

 

[mtrehy]

 

[mtrehy]

Looking good
Custom-fabbed control arms and uprights... are you using Tesla hub-bearing-carrier units so that you can use (shortened) Tesla halfshafts (and brakes, and wheels)?

No, I am having driveshafts made for my application. Tesla hubs/brakes/wheels are too big and I needed standard Jag wheel fitment

 

[mtrehy]

Nice.
So what hub/bearing units are you using? An old Jag wouldn't have come with a unit like that.

Indeed, thankfully the germans decided to use a stud pattern that can be made to work with little (to zero) modification

33411093371

7316577660657

 

[mtrehy]

I was going to ask "which Germans?", meaning "which German car does the hub belong to, which has a bolt pattern that works for your car?"... but from the part numbers it looks like a common BMW hub, used for multiple models.

I had guessed it was a sealed hub-bearing-carrier unit, but it appears to be a strange (which shouldn't surprise me from BMW) sealed bearing in a carrier plus a separate hub... which means that the stub of the drive axle presumably retains the hub in the bearing. The all-in-one units (including Tesla) are typically staked together, so while they can't be rebuilt, they don't need the axle shaft to hold them together. Not a problem, just an assembly factor to keep in mind.

The BMW bolt pattern is 5x120mm, and it looks like the Jags were 5x4.75". 4.75" is 120.65 mm; while that's very close to 120 mm, it's not the same - I wouldn't settle for that. I would expect there to be a hub-bearing assembly for an older GM model that would actually be 4.75", given that this was a very common GM bolt pattern and that GM has used unit bearing assemblies for decades, and while they are most common as non-driven hubs for the rear of front wheel drive cars, GM part #7470005 (from the front of a Chevrolet S-10 or 1979-1985 Buick Riviera, for instance) is a driven hub-bearing-carrier unit with 5x4.75" bolt pattern. 1984 and newer Corvette rears might work, too. There are other 5x4.75 vehicles, but many would not use these bearing assemblies, and I don't think Aston Martin or Lamborghini parts help much. At least they're European, which might be better than looking for parts for GM North American models in the UK.

Do the Jaguar and BMW centre bores match? I don't know exactly which Jaguar and which BMW are being mixed, but it looks like Jaguar used 73.8 mm bore while BMW used 72.6 mm. I don't know if a centering ring rigid enough to ensure concentricity (i.e. not plastic) is practical for that combination. The GM hubs won't match the Jaguar centre bore, either, but as long as the hub is smaller than the wheel a centering ring can be used.

It would be handy if the splines matched between the Tesla side and the hub, even though custom-length axle shafts are needed... but I have no idea what splines any of these bits have.

Think you're looking at an older BMW wheel. The E39 has 74.1 centre bore so actually larger than the Jag 73.8

Anyway, thankfully this is a tried and trusted route with thousands of modified and race Jags in the UK fitted with the cheaper and more readily available BMW wheels.

You'd think you'd have to turn down the hub to fit the smaller Jag centre bore but in reality they fit which shows the manufacturing tolerances used on the Jag... In my pic you can see I have turned down the hub centre slightly (to match the Jag hub size) but when I bought new hubs I tried them in the wheels and they fit without reduction

So you're left with the PCD discrepancy which depending on your preference is:

Ignore it - it will be fine (not recommended)
Redrill it (I'd weld up the existing holes)
Obtain a hub that hasn't been drilled and drill to suit (expensive but available)
Use wobble bolts (cheap, simple and proven reliability)

BMW also gives you easy access to brake discs etc. In my case needing something small enough to fit under a 16" wheel.

Not many chevrolet and buicks over here

 

[mtrehy]

There's obviously no need to machine the part of the hub spigot that supports the brake disk, you can see that on the old hub that I machined to match the Jag spigot that the machining stops before the flange face leaving the shoulder for the disk to locate on.