[Duncan]

Hi itchyback

It may be worth thinking about Chapman Struts - used on all manner of cars and very effective - and I would advise getting a copy of
Alan Staniforth's - Race and Rally Car Source Book

 

[Duncan]

IMHO
Strut suspension is easy to design and make - and is easy to set to achieve the suspension results
The fact that the angles are set by the position of the strut top means that you can get precise angles

The only issue that I can see is that it prevents some body shapes - but only at the front - the back is almost always high enough to mean that you can fit your struts

Edit
I used Strut suspension on the front and rear of my "Device" - and decades ago I used Strut suspension on the front of my Twin Cam Mini

 

[Duncan]

Brian
You are completely WRONG in this
A twin wishbone setup is very sensitive to the positions of all of the pivot points - and it feeds large loads into all of those joints

For my mini I designed the suspension with my own bottom wishbones

I did use complete Subaru subframes for my device as it was easy - and made certification a lot easier

But designing a strut type rear suspension for something like the jag would be relatively easy - you just need the two pivot points for the lower wishbone and a single high mounting point for the strut top - you could cut the turret off another car (like a Subaru - or almost any car with struts) and weld it into position a trivial task compared to any of the other types of suspension

Almost all current production vehicles use Strut suspension - because it is easy to design and make AND works very well

 

[Duncan]

We're supposed to be discussing a suspension to make a Tesla drive unit work in the back of the Jaguar XJ6

YES
And in that situation I would be designing and making a Strut type rear suspension

It is easier to design
Easier to make
There are a LOT more parts available
And - importantly - it requires lower level of precision to make it work

Finally - if at all sensibly designed it works very well indeed

 

[Duncan]

The strut design on the back of my device is (each side)

Two in/out links - one with length adjustment - both effectively simple tubes with eyes for the rubber bushes

One fore/aft link - in the Subaru it goes forwards but I swapped the rear hubs right to left so that it went backwards

These three nicely constrain the bottom of the strut - then all you need is the top of the strut

As a general rule the more that you can move the top of the strut towards the center of the car the more the suspension compensates for vehicle roll to keep the tyres square to the road

On the Subaru the strut ends in a bracket that goes either side of a bit sticking up out of the hub

These two parts are clamped by friction so you can enlarge the holes to get more adjustment if you want

 

[Duncan]

If you look at the picture Brian attached you will see that there is plenty of room for the struts

IMHO you do NOT want your batteries high up at strut level - the best place for all the heavy bits like batteries is down on the floor - as low as possible