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Looking at this design again, I think it will only work if the drive shaft sleeve is a relatively tight sliding fit on the motor output shaft. The single support bearing, if it is a typical single row unit, will have quite a bit of twisting play between the inner race, the balls, and the outer race. This, combined with a loose fit of the sleeve on the motor shaft, could make for excess side play(wobble) of the drive shaft- about where your hand is grabbing the yoke in the picture. You could check for the side play, after the parts are assembled, by moving the yoke side to side with your hand. Or, set up a dial indicator to measure it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
Thanks again @electro wrks, I will see about getting a dial indicator to measure, but the adapter is very tight fitting and I can't see any side-to-side play by eye.

I'm slowly chipping away at the to-do list preparing for CM. Picked up some wheels and tires from the local classifieds which should work out perfectly for me. They are 295/70/17 (33x11.5) Ridge Grapplers on JCS 17" rims. I have Ridge Grapplers on my LX470 also and I absolutely love them. They are on the heavier side of 4x4 tires but the performance has always been excellent for me.

I also replaced a cracked headlight, the mis-matched driver's door, and the missing rear fender flare. Overall it's starting to look like a handsome truck!







 

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
I got the OBD plug wired up to the Resolve-EV controller and got Leafspy talking. Ish. For some reason I'm getting scrambled data. I have mostly 2013 Leaf hardware but my battery is a 2017. I think this is causing a mis-match in the data. It appears to be working at some level so I can probably get it working. Luckily the battery stats look pretty good 🙂

 

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I thought if you used a different LEAF battery pack, it has to be paired to the new motor/inv or retain the original battery's control module? Sorry if you've already mentioned that in the thread and I didn't see it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
I thought if you used a different LEAF battery pack, it has to be paired to the new motor/inv or retain the original battery's control module? Sorry if you've already mentioned that in the thread and I didn't see it.
I think that's true for a Leaf, but Isak at Resolve-EV said it's not required for the custom controller. Everything else functions correctly. If I change the model year around in Leafspy it gives me different data or nothing at all. The screenshot shown was using it set to 2013.
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
I haven't been following too closely. Have you resolved the issue with holding the vehicle's position with the throttle on an incline? Also, what's the latest with the drive line vibration?
I added a simple switch inline with the brake 12v signal wire so that I can simply disconnect the brake input from the Resolve-EV controller. It is not ideal but it works!

I thought I had updated the thread but I hadn't. I built a torque tube structure between the motor mount and the t-case. Now the driveshaft is held just about perfectly straight. I installed a spring pin on the front end and a metal band on the rear to take up some slack on the t-case side. So far it is running very smooth. I am pleasantly surprised. Can now cruise down the road at 45 MPH and there is very little vibration, similar to a normal car. After parking the driveline is not hot or anything like it was before. The metal band on the rear of the axle seemed to make all the difference by taking out some of the slop in the input shaft which was causing it to rattle. Been driving it more regularly, I have probably over 100 miles on it now.

I charged it from 30% to 100% and the cooling fans never kicked on either so I think my tiny radiator is going to work out ok also, only got slightly above ambient.







 

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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
I actually read that exact article when I was contemplating the design. I tried to run it at a slight angle but the vibration was much worse. The guy who built the driveshaft told me to just run it straight also. It's good enough to get me to Moab and shake down the truck, as soon as I get back I'm going to start redesigning the drivetrain I've already decided.

In other news I drove my EV Land Cruiser to the local Toyota 4x4 club meeting last night and showed it off. Everyone loved it except one guy who called it an abomination lol
 

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I actually read that exact article when I was contemplating the design. I tried to run it at a slight angle but the vibration was much worse. The guy who built the driveshaft told me to just run it straight also. It's good enough to get me to Moab and shake down the truck, as soon as I get back I'm going to start redesigning the drivetrain I've already decided.
Your drive line is so short, it's going to be difficult to measure the angle accurately. You may already have the minimum angle. One option for the redesign is described in post 91. It has the direct mounting of the motor to the BB reduction unit, with an adapter plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #197 ·
Your drive line is so short, it's going to be difficult to measure the angle accurately. You may already have the minimum angle. One option for the redesign is described in post 91. It has the direct mounting of the motor to the BB reduction unit, with an adapter plate.
Yeah that's the plan. I will need to "clearance" the trans tunnel in the truck so the motor can fit up close to the t-case but directly mounting it with CNCd adapter plate is the plan.
 

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Yeah that's the plan. I will need to "clearance" the trans tunnel in the truck so the motor can fit up close to the t-case but directly mounting it with CNCd adapter plate is the plan.
You can do well without CNC if you do it well, just saying. But a CNC bullet of aluminium always looks good when the truck is canted over on 3 wheels in the rough stuff and everyone's looking up its skirt

cheers
Tyler
 

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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
Today I took the EV 80 back to the same scales that I weighed it on before I started. Everyone wants to know the weight, well here it is: 5180 lbs. Remember, when it was stock it weight 5080 lbs. So that means currently it is sitting 100 lbs heavier. This is with the addition of my 17" wheels and Nitto tires, steel bumpers front and rear, and a Warn 10k winch on the front. I would say apples to apples it is 100-200 lbs lighter than it was stock if the armor and mods aren't part of the equation. Really cool! I said I wasn't going to post any more photos before Moab but I lied I guess.







Stock:



 

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Today I took the EV 80 back to the same scales that I weighed it on before I started. Everyone wants to know the weight, well here it is: 5180 lbs. Remember, when it was stock it weight 5080 lbs. So that means currently it is sitting 100 lbs heavier.
Ignoring all of the (significant) details of before and after equipment differences, this illustrates the importance of the specific engine. The original engine in this vehicle is vastly heavier than the engine in a typical car, so the conversion doesn't see the weight gain that would typically be expected.
 
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