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The Electric Land Cruiser EVJ80 - Nissan LEAF + Resolve-EV

93746 Views 378 Replies 41 Participants Last post by  Electric Land Cruiser
2
Hello everyone and welcome to my first EV conversion project. I love cars. Driving and modifying them and everything that goes with them. I like racing and autocross, taking relaxing drives on twisty mountain roads, and driving on gnarly 4x4 trails.

My conversion is a 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser FZJ80.





For my first project I have chosen a large, heavy, inefficient, 4WD SUV. Makes sense right?! To me it does and this is my rationale:
-There is a lot of space to mount things.
-There is not just space for lots of batteries, but the GVWR of the vehicle allows for 1400lbs of cargo in the original configuration.
-The original 6-cylinder engine is unreliable (for a Toyota) and underpowered, why keep it?
-The chassis and axles of the Toyota Land Cruiser are legendary due to its incredible off-road prowess and durability.
-EVs work just as well at sea level as they do at 13,000ft on a mountain.
-Land Cruiser values, especially 80 series, have been going up and up and up so now is my last chance to own one and an EV conversion justifies it to my wife!

-Most importantly, as a dedicated off-road rig this vehicle will be driven almost exclusively at very slow speed less than 20mph and very short distances. The normal 4x4 trails I do are 5-10 miles long, a really long trail is 20 miles. The appeal of silent running, no fumes to smell, and smooth torque delivery appeal to me in a 4x4 vehicle. With Rivian, Hummer EV, F-150 EV, Alpha EV Truck, etc I think the writing is on the wall about 4x4 EVs and how effective they can be. Better jump on the bandwagon!

Your skill level with auto mechanics and fabrication
I have had 4 or 5 dedicated "project cars" in the past with various stages of upgrades, modifications, and custom work. I have rebuilt engines from a bare block, assembled cylinder heads, rebuilt suspension, brakes, exhaust work, etc. Rebuilt engines stock and also rebuilt them with aftermarket parts for big HP. I swapped the engine and transmission in my daily driver and drive it all of the time. All of my vehicles run on E85 fuel (cuts your carbon emissions by about 40% believe it or not and it's cheaper and makes more power). I can weld, cut, grind, paint, and turn a wrench. I currently own 9 or 10 cars (I think I am forgetting one).

I have a lifetime of experience with RC vehicles and I build and fly UAVs. Soldering, wiring, designing circuits, and crunching amperage and voltage specs is what I do nearly every day. I'm pretty much 100% self-taught or learned from mentors, I have no degrees or certifications except from the FAA so please be kind if I am doing something wrong :whistle:

The range you are hoping to get (how many miles/charge)
20-30 miles range with my initial build would be a good starting goal or about 2 mi/kwh.

What level of performance you are hoping to get
Enough to drive around town and drive on local 4x4 roads and trails and eventually go to Moab for the real terrain. I will tow it if needed.

How much money you are willing to put into your project
Whatever it takes but likely will cost $10k or so before it drives under it's own power.

What parts you've already considered, if any.
I have already acquired a 2013 Nissan LEAF SV which I will use as a donor for my motor, inverter, DC-DC, chargers, and battery pack.


Short term I just want to get it running. Long term I have lots of ideas. Assuming I have a fully functioning fully electric 4x4 truck there is a lot of stuff that I could do with it. I am now researching DIY wind turbines and river water turbines and of course have been messing with solar for years. All of which I eventually want to harness and do a fully-electric "Overland" trip through the wilderness of Colorado and Utah and maybe beyond. Of course that is probably years in the making, but it is my long term goal.

My own personal EV history: I have owned a 2013 Nissan LEAF SV similar to the salvaged car I bought. I owned it for a year and then sold it as the battery degradation started to really take hold. I really enjoyed the EV lifestyle on those perfect weather days when I could drive everywhere I wanted. In the middle of winter when the heater would barely keep the windshield clear on those dark nights trying to coast down hills in order to make it home....didn't enjoy that so much. During my EV ownership I got to understand what it is like to live with an EV, charge at public places, get ICEd at the charger, plug in at home every day, and check a location's elevation before driving there.

While owning the LEAF I read about a guy in Arizona who set the record for the longest distance driven in a 24kwh LEAF and it was over 180 miles! Yes that's right, a 24kwh LEAF drove 186 miles on a single charge. The kicker? He did so at a maximum of 24mph and drove for nearly 8 hours! Link: 100 Mile Club, 200 km, 300 km, 200 Mile Club (24kWh LEAF) - My Nissan Leaf Forum

When I was a kid I loved RC trucks. I loved the fast ones that could hit the big jumps. Unfortunately, the little NiMh batteries wouldn't run very long at all, 10 minutes or less. Then I got into RC rock crawlers. Little trucks that were geared really low and built to drive very slowly up rocks and other challenging obstacles. Well, guess what? That same crappy NiMh battery that only lasted 10 minutes in my fast truck, actually lasted well over an hour in my rock crawler! Guess what I learned that day.

The biggest enemy we have as EVers is speed i.e. wind resistance. There is no wind resistance to speak of at less than 20mph. So if my EVJ80 Land Cruiser can go 20-30 miles around town, maybe it can do 30-40 miles offroading?
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Nice work.
I follow you build closely, as I’m a few months behind you in my build.
What size is your box?
Thanks! The box is 36x20x16 inches externally.
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Spent all day today and got one panel done haha. Going slow because it was the most important panel. Got all my wiring complete and 366v measured at the contactors! The BMS must be wired correctly because it is plugged in but it's not smoking! A good sign!




The contactor box bolts on to the aluminum side panel.





Panel on, riveted, bolted and sealed up:







WE'VE GOT VOLTAGE!
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All panels on! Sealant smeared on all the joints real good! Going to let it cure and then it's time for PAINT! So close!!!









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First coat of paint on. And since everyone wants to know, it weighs 600lbs. Oof. That's about 100lbs heavier than I anticipated. Still lighter than a 1FZ!





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It runs!!!! It rruuunnnnsss!!! We just took it in a joy ride around the block! 45mph was easy. It is definitely not slow! IT WORKS!!!!!!

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It runs!!!! It rruuunnnnsss!!! We just took it in a joy ride around the block! 45mph was easy. It is definitely not slow! IT WORKS!!!!!!

I love that you say it is not slow 💪🏼
it get me to thinking my super little truck will be very fast
First drive video below. Be sure to subscribe to my channel to see the full build and everything coming next! www.youtube.com/c/UniqueMobility

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What's the gearing/transmission setup on this?
What's the gearing/transmission setup on this?
It's all in this thread. It uses a single-speed planetary reduction box between the motor and the transfer case.
It's all in this thread. It uses a single-speed planetary reduction box between the motor and the transfer case.
It would be good for those of us considering using this Leaf set-up to have a recap of the gearing, ratios, tire diameters, etc. used by ELC.

Also, ELC, I keep wondering about the short drive shaft set-up between the motor and the Black Box-c/transfer case. At ~10,000-12,000RPM( the max RPM of the Leaf motors), this kind of set-up may not be practical. Keeping it running smoothly, without excess vibrations, could be a problem. Think a small amount of dirt or grease in the wrong place. At ~twice the rpm of a typical ICE set-up, again, this could be a real problem. Also, is the DS fixed on one end, or full floating between the splined shafts? I could be wrong, but I believe one end of this kind of DS has to have one end in a fixed(non sliding) position to work properly, without some vibration issues.

Could you eliminate the DS entirely? The motor could be mounted directly to the BB reduction unit with an adapter plate. The splines in the new BB input shaft could be machined out to a convenient diameter to fit the outside diameter of a turned down splined motor coupling. The input shaft could be shortened to a more convenient length at the same time. A good press fit along with a small, carefully done end weld would lock the parts in place.

A motor plate would fit nicely between the parallel machined faces of the BB and motor with no extra bearing needed. The adapter plate could index off of the machined stepped end cover of the BB on one side. Lining up the motor on the other side of the plate is a little more difficult. It probably could be lined up by hand centering it. Something that is very difficult to do with the floppy input shafts of typical RWD transmissions. Once centered, without excess side loads on shafts and bearings, dowel pin holes could be drilled and reamed to fix the position. Another benefit of this type of adapter is that it could be put together with gaskets and/or sealing compound to keep oil in; and dirt and water out.
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It would be good for those of us considering using this Leaf set-up to have a recap of the gearing, ratios, tire diameters, etc. used by ELC.

Also, ELC, I keep wondering about the short drive shaft set-up between the motor and the Black Box-c/transfer case. At ~10,000-12,000RPM( the max RPM of the Leaf motors), this kind of set-up may not be practical. Keeping it running smoothly, without excess vibrations, could be a problem. Think a small amount of dirt or grease in the wrong place. At ~twice the rpm of a typical ICE set-up, again, this could be a real problem. Also, is the DS fixed on one end, or full floating between the splined shafts? I could be wrong, but I believe one end of this kind of DS has to have one end in a fixed(non sliding) position to work properly, without some vibration issues.

Could you eliminate the DS entirely? The motor could be mounted directly to the BB reduction unit with an adapter plate. The splines in the new BB input shaft could be machined out to a convenient diameter to fit the outside diameter of a turned down splined motor coupling. The input shaft could be shortened to a more convenient length at the same time. A good press fit along with a small, carefully done end weld would lock the parts in place.

A motor plate would fit nicely between the parallel machined faces of the BB and motor with no extra bearing needed. The adapter plate could index off of the machined stepped end cover of the BB on one side. Lining up the motor on the other side of the plate is a little more difficult. It probably could be lined up by hand centering it. Something that is very difficult to do with the floppy input shafts of typical RWD transmissions. Once centered, without excess side loads on shafts and bearings, dowel pin holes could be drilled and reamed to fix the position. Another benefit of this type of adapter is that it could be put together with gaskets and/or sealing compound to keep oil in; and dirt and water out.
Possibly I will need to do what you describe. The driveshaft builder thought this would work well for me. It is floating on both sides but only has 1/4" of travel back and forth and both sides are filled with grease which damps it's movement. My goals are slow speeds crawling on trails and driving around town. It would be nice to get up to highway speeds but not necessary. It's a living project that will change over time.

The driveshaft is built with V8 truck transmission parts which approach or pass 10,000rpm in overdrive in some cases.

Right now I'm focusing on getting the rest of the auxiliary systems going like for instance a radiator and coolant lol. Really was rushing to get it done by the end of the year because I'm moving out of my shop space and it would be really nice to not have a 2 ton paper weight so mission accomplished on that front!
Thank you for this incredible thread and documentation! Joined the forum because of it. I had a few additional questions, hope I didn't miss it in the thread.

What pedal assembly did you go with for the Resolve-EV controller?

Do you have any plans to make the fuel gauge measure the battery levels? Or is that done through the OLED?
Thanks @jawmes8 ! I used a VW throttle pedal as described in the manual. I forget the exact model that mine came from I think it was a Tiguan. I would like to get the fuel gauge and tach, speedometer, temperature and other gauges working eventually. Mostly for the novelty factor but I think speedo and tach are definitely the priority. It would be cool to make the oil pressure gauge an ammeter or something like that too. Currently none of the gauges work except for the 12v battery voltage gauge which works perfectly.
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Thanks @jawmes8 ! I used a VW throttle pedal as described in the manual. I forget the exact model that mine came from I think it was a Tiguan. I would like to get the fuel gauge and tach, speedometer, temperature and other gauges working eventually. Mostly for the novelty factor but I think speedo and tach are definitely the priority. It would be cool to make the oil pressure gauge an ammeter or something like that too. Currently none of the gauges work except for the 12v battery voltage gauge which works perfectly.
Hi have you see the speedhut GPS speedometer gauges.
Hi have you see the speedhut GPS speedometer gauges.
Oh yeah definitely. I can just use my phone too. The gauge would be nice to have actual wheelspeed which is good information to have off-road or on snow and ice. I have the speed sensor so I could make it work like stock. The wiring harness ran through the engine harness so it just needs some wiring love.
Oh yeah definitely. I can just use my phone too. The gauge would be nice to have actual wheelspeed which is good information to have off-road or on snow and ice. I have the speed sensor so I could make it work like stock. The wiring harness ran through the engine harness so it just needs some wiring love.
Then you can make it works with the original speedo
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Episode 3 of The Electric Land Cruiser. Check it out!

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Thanks @jawmes8 ! I used a VW throttle pedal as described in the manual. I forget the exact model that mine came from I think it was a Tiguan. I would like to get the fuel gauge and tach, speedometer, temperature and other gauges working eventually. Mostly for the novelty factor but I think speedo and tach are definitely the priority. It would be cool to make the oil pressure gauge an ammeter or something like that too. Currently none of the gauges work except for the 12v battery voltage gauge which works perfectly.
Nice, subscribed to your YouTube channel so looking forward to updates:)
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