DIY Electric Car Forums banner
101 - 120 of 152 Posts

·
Registered
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser
Joined
·
349 Posts
Discussion Starter · #101 ·
I won't have much to update for a little while as I'm moving out of my shop and doing Christmas and New Years etc but I don't think I posted these photos of the battery box so I thought I'd post them. I thought the stencil was cool :cool: Will do a custom stencil with the battery capacity on top I think.










And my buddy Josh did a great job cutting out a slot for the Blackbox shifter:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
The low voltage wiring is just about done! Only have brake and reverse light relays and D, N, and R switches left to wire in. I decided to move the Resolve-EV VCU to behind the glovebox where the stock ECU is mounted because it will be cleaner and shorter wiring. I was able to slightly modify the ECU brackets to hold the VCU, nice!





Ran wiring through the factory engine harness grommet.



Left the stock diagnosis box for resetting airbags etc.



Throttle harness, OLED, harness, and OBD harness and grounds all ready to hook up.



Used a small fuse/relay box to power my EV circuits (https://amzn.to/3nRI39B)

It powers the Inverter relay/BMS, Resolve-EV 12v, and my accessory pumps; vacuum pump, power steering, and transfer-case cooler. I have two free relays for big lights or something like that.



Tested the chassis 12v system again and all is working. 12v system is now DONE! All low voltage wiring under the hood is DONE!

You need about 50 to 80amp fuse for the power steering. That box may Chernobyl when you go full lock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Spent all day today and got one panel done haha. Going slow because it was the most important panel. Got all my wiring complete and 366v measured at the contactors! The BMS must be wired correctly because it is plugged in but it's not smoking! A good sign!




The contactor box bolts on to the aluminum side panel.





Panel on, riveted, bolted and sealed up:







WE'VE GOT VOLTAGE!
Where did you get your gloves? How much did they cost?
 

·
Registered
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser
Joined
·
349 Posts
Discussion Starter · #107 ·
What's the gearing/transmission setup on this?
Sorry meant to answer this before. It has the stock FZJ80 transfer case and a Blackbox "doubler." The transfer case has 1:1 high range and 2.4:1 low range. The Blackbox also has a 1:1 high range and 2.7:1 low range. It looks like I will have to do most onroad driving with the Blackbox in low range. The diffs are 4.10s. I plan on having 35" tires eventually, have 33s now.
 

·
Registered
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser
Joined
·
349 Posts
Discussion Starter · #108 · (Edited)
I was able to drive my electric land cruiser onto my trailer which was a big goal of mine so I could move at the end of this year. Mission Accomplished!

Driving up the ramps onto the deck I found out that the electric drivetrain in it's current form is going to pose some problems off-road.

Firstly, I had to use quite a bit of pedal to get going up the ramps from a stop. Once there was some forward motion then there was plenty of power but the initial go was underwhelming.

Secondly, the Resolve-EV controller does not allow any throttle input when the brake is pressed. This is a safety feature to prevent a runaway vehicle, but on the angle of my trailer it was causing problems. I was inching up the trailer ramps slowly like normal but as the vehicle comes to a stop the regen braking disappears and there is nothing to stop the truck from just rolling backwards. The only way I could get going was to hold my parking brake (which doesn't work well) and then just get on the throttle as fast as possible after releasing the brake pedal. This is definitely no good for off-road driving, it could even be dangerous.

I was in high-low (high range t-case, low range Blackbox) so I still have additional gear reduction to use but this was a good experiment.

I'm going to ask Isak as Resolve-EV to see if there is a software update that could address this. Also I could make a simple switch that would disconnect the brake input from the Resolve-EV. It really is only needed to switch from Neutral to Drive or Reverse so I don't foresee a problem with a switch like that.

Also the Resolve-EV controller allows one-pedal driving so it does not creep forward from a stop like the LEAF. It's personal preference and for an onroad vehicle I think I would prefer it, but for off-road driving I definitely want that creep back. I also prefer automatic transmissions to manual transmissions when off-road for the same reason even though I much prefer manual onroad.

Some minor teething issues I'll figure out one way or the other.

Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Automotive side marker light Car
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,523 Posts
Yeah - the Tesla was annoying AF in the same way to get it onto the trailer. It doesn't allow simultaneous brake pedal and accelerator, either and the creep doesn't have enough torque for creeping up the trailer ramp. It supposedly has a hill hold, but at the time, I was loading the trailer and not surfing the web.

In your case, you could easily defeat this with a NC pushbutton that you need to hold down for the defeat...seems like that might be the way to do it vs a toggle switch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Great milestone @Electric Land Cruiser

With my Resolve Controller I wired the "brake" to a push button (only for gear changes). I hence don't think I will get regen. It works well as I just press two buttons simultaneously to change gear. It is my responsibility to make sure I don't change gears when the car is moving!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
876 Posts
I've been doing some deep diving into the use of a planetary type gear reduction for use with the Leaf motor. This after market gear reduction supplier has a definite warning about the upper RPM limit of its planetary unit:
Do the Blackbox people have a similar warning? I think the problem is that the small planetary gears turn at such a high RPM, relative to the other components, that problems can come up with the bearings supporting the gears. This makes the bearings the weakest link in the power train. Similar problems show up in helicopter gear boxes with planetary gear drives:
It may not be a problem in your case, with intermittent use. That may not be the case for those of us wanting to use the Leaf motor with a planetary gear reducer for long periods of highway speed, on road use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,346 Posts
I've been doing some deep diving into the use of a planetary type gear reduction for use with the Leaf motor. This after market gear reduction supplier has a definite warning about the upper RPM limit of its planetary unit:
Do the Blackbox people have a similar warning? I think the problem is that the small planetary gears turn at such a high RPM, relative to the other components, that problems can come up with the bearings supporting the gears. This makes the bearings the weakest link in the power train. Similar problems show up in helicopter gear boxes with planetary gear drives:
It may not be a problem in your case, with intermittent use. That may not be the case for those of us wanting to use the Leaf motor with a planetary gear reducer for long periods of highway speed, on road use.
I agree that the gears themselves are not a problem if machined and treated for the intended speed; bearings and seals are more likely issues.

Torque Trends makes the ev-TorqueBox fixed-ratio planetary reducer for EV applications and the same unit with different options for other applications. On their product page there is a video about the internal construction, in which they say starting around 2:02 that the input ball-type bearing has ceramic rolling elements for the EV version, but steel for the other versions, so that the EV version can handle higher input speed; construction is apparently otherwise the same for all applications, because the gears, seals, and other bearings can handle the speeds they see in EV use with motors up to 13,000 RPM.

(By the way, if anyone watches the video or looks at the internal parts and wonders why there's no ring gear if it is a planetary gear set, it is a compound planetary system of the type with two sets of planets meshed with each other, and the output set react against a stationary sun gear instead of a stationary ring gear. The output is taken from the planet carrier.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,523 Posts
I watched the video. You need to locate that vibration's source....tying it down does not get rid of the source, merely the annoyance. Given its magnitude, something's going to fail over time, IMO...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,523 Posts
I've been doing some deep diving into the use of a planetary type gear reduction for use with the Leaf motor. This after market gear reduction supplier has a definite warning about the upper RPM limit of its planetary unit:
Do the Blackbox people have a similar warning? I think the problem is that the small planetary gears turn at such a high RPM, relative to the other components, that problems can come up with the bearings supporting the gears. This makes the bearings the weakest link in the power train. Similar problems show up in helicopter gear boxes with planetary gear drives:
It may not be a problem in your case, with intermittent use. That may not be the case for those of us wanting to use the Leaf motor with a planetary gear reducer for long periods of highway speed, on road use.
Jet turbines use planetaries, so it's not tye planetaries, it's the design. Bearings, seals tolerances, pumps, lubricants, etc all factor. So, yes, there's a design speed and a rock crawler reducer may not be a smart choice to drop RPM in half from 12 grand.

Most of the reducer planetaries out there that I've seen use planetary sets from the GM Powerglide transmission.
 

·
Registered
1971 GMC 1500
Joined
·
759 Posts
First drive video below. Be sure to subscribe to my channel to see the full build and everything coming next! www.youtube.com/c/UniqueMobility

call me crazy mate but this video does not come up under your videos or when we search your channel, yes we can watch it using this link, but I am afraid regular YouTubers will never find it, so just letting you know
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
876 Posts
I watched the video. You need to locate that vibration's source....tying it down does not get rid of the source, merely the annoyance. Given its magnitude, something's going to fail over time, IMO...
As I wrote in a previous post, I believe one end of the short drive shaft needs to be fixed for the set-up to work properly. Maybe you could drill and tap one of the splined sleeves for a set screw to do this. You probably want to drill a small dimple in the shaft for the set screw, so the splines are not mushed down and make it difficult to remove.
 

·
Registered
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser
Joined
·
349 Posts
Discussion Starter · #119 ·
I believe the Blackbox reducer that I have uses the planetary from a GM tranny, if not the Powerglide then something similar. I have been through this a couple times in the thread but it will be actively cooled and the truck will not go to the full 10,000 RPM. Starting small and working my way up.

@electro wrks I think I will take your advice and pin one side of the shaft.

I have not done any work on the truck since the first day I got it moving. The vibration is primarily because the motor and t-case are not tied together and move independently. The motor is also twisting sideways. I have some ideas on how to tie the two pieces together with steel and also stop the motor from twisting. That's the first thing I'm going to work on once I get back at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,346 Posts
The vibration is primarily because the motor and t-case are not tied together and move independently. The motor is also twisting sideways. I have some ideas on how to tie the two pieces together with steel and also stop the motor from twisting. That's the first thing I'm going to work on once I get back at it.
Just an option to consider, but you could ditch the jointed shaft and connect the motor and Blackbox with a rigid housing. If the motor can't move all the way back to the Blackbox face due to tunnel space restrictions, a shaft and extended "torque tube" (a tube or box with mounting flanges on each end) would work. The torque tube takes all of the reaction torque, as well as keeping the components aligned and not moving axially relative to each other. Some sort of compliant coupling (a giubo or jaw and spider setup) in the shaft is probably advisable to forgive slight fabrication errors and thermal changes.

For examples, a torque tube is found between a front-mounted engine and rear-mounted transaxle, in vehicles such as the Porsche 924 and 928, Alfa Romeo Alfetta (Tipo 116), and C5 through C7 Corvette; there are many others, but those are probably the best-known.
 
101 - 120 of 152 Posts
Top