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I am thinking about trying to run a water cooling loop through the cells, not only for cooling the pack but to use the coolant for cabin heat.
That would be a challenge, because Nissan did not design the modules for heat transfer.

The OEM battery heaters (optional in some markets) are plates which sit against the sides of the module (corresponding to one cell edge); that's normal for pouch cell stacks, but there is little provision in the Leaf modules for heat transfer to that surface.

The alternative method for pouch cells is to place cooling plates between every pair of cells, as in the LG Chem modules of the Chevrolet Volt; however, there is no reasonable access between the cells of Leaf modules.
 

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1996 Toyota Land Cruiser
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192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
De-ICEing complete:





Old vs. new. The difference is staggering:







That would be a challenge, because Nissan did not design the modules for heat transfer.
Well crap! I guess I'll just pack it up and give up :(

Seriously, no kidding it's going to be a challenge. Thanks for stating the obvious again :)
 

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@x78163 yes I have opened the leaf battery. There's no real way to install it as-is, but luckily the stock wiring has a lot of slack and I can probably maintain most of it. Also the low current wires can be extended with no penalty. I am thinking about trying to run a water cooling loop through the cells, not only for cooling the pack but to use the coolant for cabin heat.



@brian_ it has no rating for input rpm. I asked the manufacturer and gave them my idea and they strongly recommended against it and gave no guarantees. So what. I didn't expect them to either. Nothing ventured nothing gained. Like I have said many times the top speed is theoretical only and I plan to drive most of the time 40mph or less. If it fails I know what needs upgraded. If it fails that means I drove a homebuilt EV of my own creation. Progress either way. I will monitor gearbox temperature and hey it may even be another good source of cabin heat. It may not be a long-term solution but it will give me a starting point and LC parts are easy to re-sell.

I got the engine bay all cleaned up time to start de-ICEing the rest.









Huge amount of space for all the hardware:



Fantastic idea about using waste heat to augment cabin heat. I see what you mean with the 'flexibility' of moving the modules into different configurations with the wiring harnesses already in place. I can't believe how much space there is once you de-ice. I'm really interested to see the leaf motor's performance in your setup, especially since you get so much space back from removing the stock transmission from the vehicle.
 

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1996 Toyota Land Cruiser
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192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Some updates to my project. While I was waiting on some parts I rebuilt the front axle which was in dire need of it. Was a huge disgusting mess but now it has all new seals and one new Birfield joint and new brakes.







I got in my BlackBox "doubler" and got to work installed it on my t-case. The stock input shaft needs to be removed and replaced with the BB input shaft.



This thing is burly. Much more stout than I expected. Also after doing more reading about this product this is about the 3rd generation with a bunch of improvements over the earlier versions so I think it's going to be perfect for my project. I will be using the factory transmission cooler, a thermoswitch, and an electric pump to keep it cool.











Now that I have the BB I can start building my t-case mounts. In the OEM configuration the transfer case was only bolted to the transmission itself so all of the torque goes through the interface the BB uses. I plan to build a circular mount that will bolt onto the BlackBox face and also the stock crossmember trans mount. I will also build a rear custom crossmember to further take the load.
 

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1996 Toyota Land Cruiser
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192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
My hair-brained plan is starting to come together! I got pretty far on my t-case mount now. I used a big hunk of 90 degree steel extrusion from the scrap yard and welded a bit extra on top to make up the full circle. I tried my best to keep it from warping but it did a little bit, nothing that's going to cause issues though.

Sk6p6v9.jpg



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My buddy loaned me his plasma cutter to rough it in.

h7LiSQW.jpg



35TSjkU.jpg



Welders rule.

mfbjNKN.jpg




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Now I'm at a point where I can test fit it into the chassis and make sure everything fits right then do the final welding. I also will build a rear t-case brace after that. Then on to the motor!
 

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1996 Toyota Land Cruiser
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Got some more done on the t-case mount. I think as long as it test-fits ok then I am happy with it. I may add some skid plates on to it later. As it is it's fricken super heavy and I cannot install it myself anymore that's for sure.

First I cut off the factory rubber damper, cleaned up the bracket, and drilled a couple holes so a OEM 1FZ motor mount can bolt on.





I found some box section and some 1" tubing and started placing them.



Tacked them into place for now. Will box everything in once I know it fits right. And paint of course.








Now it will support the t-case without the mounts sagging. The t-case is rubber isolated and bolt-on.
 

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Great progress and I love your donor. Just a note of caution, will this additional mount be bolted to the chassis or just based on your outrigger layout you have there? It must be the former to handle the drive torque you will put through it.

Sent from my M2102J20SG using Tapatalk
 

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1996 Toyota Land Cruiser
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192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
All of the torque will be taken by the circular face of the BlackBox. That's where the T-case mounts to the transmission normally so that's how it's designed. The outrigger is just to support the weight since the motor and trans aren't on the front and it tends to tip rearwards. I may or may not attach it to the chassis. Been warned about doing that since any chassis flex from offroading will be transmitted into the t-case and that could be very bad for it.
 

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1996 Toyota Land Cruiser
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
T-case mount works as in it fits, but it doesn't work. It's way too wobbly. I think I will change up the mounts so that they are at opposing angles so that there's no "jello table" type effect. Secondly, I will add a 3rd mount to the rear output shaft area. I will also buy new mounts as these are really, really flexible probably because they have 324k miles and were coated in oil and grease.






The motor itself should fit under the cowl in the trans tunnel like I originally envisioned! Just need a short driveshaft to couple the motor and t-case. The battery pack will be under the hood in a removable waterproof box that I can lift out with an engine hoist for changes, upgrades, fixes, etc.

 

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1996 Toyota Land Cruiser
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Been jamming on the LC thought I should post an update.

I cut off one of the cast mounting points that I don't need so the motor can stuff under the cowl.





Test fit and taking measurements for the motor mounts.

I have between 6 and 10 inches of space between the t-case and motor shafts to play with depending where exactly I mount the motor. Driveshaft shop doesn't think it'll be an issue they are working on the driveshaft now.



Working on a rubber isolated mount and steel crossmember for the motor. Waiting for driveshaft to mount it in final location.



Test fitting PDM and Inverter:



They feel happiest here.





Beefy mounts to hold the heavy PDM during offroad driving.

Smaller mounts but still sturdy for lighter Inverter:



Used engine hoist to hold PDM during fab for easy in and out over and over.









Mounted the charge ports behind the front grill. Want to make a door or hinge action to access them.





Beefy mounts for Chademo. Chademo plugs and cables are big and heavy.





Made sure "up" was up :)



Started on wiring now. First organized the Resolve-EV wires into bundles. It is very well thought out and should be a joy to wire in.

I have an aftermarket center console I figure it's a good spot to mount the Resolve-EV controller and keep it safe but easily removable for updates. The manual states it should be as close as possible to the D, N, and R buttons and to the OLED screen so I figure this is a good spot.







I want to make sure everything I can get done is done before the driveshaft is ready!
 

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1996 Toyota Land Cruiser
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
The low voltage wiring is just about done! Only have brake and reverse light relays and D, N, and R switches left to wire in. I decided to move the Resolve-EV VCU to behind the glovebox where the stock ECU is mounted because it will be cleaner and shorter wiring. I was able to slightly modify the ECU brackets to hold the VCU, nice!





Ran wiring through the factory engine harness grommet.



Left the stock diagnosis box for resetting airbags etc.



Throttle harness, OLED, harness, and OBD harness and grounds all ready to hook up.



Used a small fuse/relay box to power my EV circuits (https://amzn.to/3nRI39B)

It powers the Inverter relay/BMS, Resolve-EV 12v, and my accessory pumps; vacuum pump, power steering, and transfer-case cooler. I have two free relays for big lights or something like that.



Tested the chassis 12v system again and all is working. 12v system is now DONE! All low voltage wiring under the hood is DONE!

 

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Love seeing this process take place on an FJ80 - doing a great job!





Ran wiring through the factory engine harness grommet.



Left the stock diagnosis box for resetting airbags etc.



Throttle harness, OLED, harness, and OBD harness and grounds all ready to hook up.



Used a small fuse/relay box to power my EV circuits (https://amzn.to/3nRI39B)

It powers the Inverter relay/BMS, Resolve-EV 12v, and my accessory pumps; vacuum pump, power steering, and transfer-case cooler. I have two free relays for big lights or something like that.



Tested the chassis 12v system again and all is working. 12v system is now DONE! All low voltage wiring under the hood is DONE!

 

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1971 GMC 1500
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loving all the detailed pics, you are doing a great job, and moving fast, and I/we know it takes time to stop what you are doing and bust out the Polaroid constantly, ha ha
 
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