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... to avoid using lower ice gears, - I use gears 3 and 4 (top) mostly (and only 1 & 2nd for, well being silly :) )
The efficiency is poor at low motor speed, which is expected. For most efficient operation, you should start in the lowest gear which can be used for any significant time, and shift up only when the resulting motor speed after the shift is at least 1500 RPM. 3rd and 4th gears would be appropriate... but only at high enough speed. This might be hard to do, for anyone accustomed to maximizing engine efficiency by keeping the engine speed as low as possible.

To really understand what motor speed to use, performance data over the range of loads would be required - the data provided by NetGain is only for full load. More complete efficiency maps are published for many motors, including some version of the same motor family as the HyPer 9. The map in the NetGain sales sheet for the HyPer 9 came from SME, and is (deliberately) without a power scale so actual values are not available, but it does show that even at moderate loads the ideal motor speed is not the lowest possible; optimal efficiency is at roughly 1/3 load and 2,000 RPM, and efficiency dives rapidly as speed drops below about 1200 RPM at any load.

Regardless of efficiency, the HyPer 9 is only rated for something like 3,300 RPM continuously - something else to keep in mind when choosing gearing. In the efficiency map, the HyPer 9 favours operation below the midpoint of its speed range, which seems unfortunate for a vehicle with a fixed gear ratio: if you gear to run 6,000 RPM at 100 km/h (60 mph), then you're out of the peak efficiency range when over 50 km/h (30 mph) - which means most of the time for most drivers - and you're over the continuous speed rating as soon as you get off of a residential street.

The Nissan Leaf map is widely published. The best point at full power is around 6,0000 RPM (more than halfway up that motor's speed range); at lower power levels the optimal speed rises with power, and would be as low as 1,500 RPM... but only for about 4 kW.
 

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I found this graph useful ..
122394
 
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I found this graph useful ..
Yes, that's what I mentioned:
To really understand what motor speed to use, performance data over the range of loads would be required - the data provided by NetGain is only for full load. More complete efficiency maps are published for many motors, including some version of the same motor family as the HyPer 9. The map in the NetGain sales sheet for the HyPer 9...
Note: that's the map in the sales sheet. It is from the HyPer 9 manufacturer and for the series of motors which includes the HyPer 9, but may not be correct for the specific motor branded as the HyPer 9 by NetGain.
 

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Electric Classic Cars have just done a large mercedes conversion using dual hyper9's http://instagr.am/p/CNvEpefnaM8/ interesting as their normal 'go to' for heavy cars is a Tesla LDU, with a Damian Maguire/ zero-ev inverter board. Advantage of former is can be used with normal diff rather than whole transaxle.
 
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Hello all,

I am about to wire my cotroller; following question: which wires from the 35 Pin should be fused? Any other than Key Switch In?

 

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I Used the EV west diagram as a starting point https://evwest.com/support/Hyper 9 Kit Schematic.pdf and guide for fuses.
There are a few people who prefer more Contactors (eg in both + and - sides of the battery), with bypass resistors. But based on running my 1st conversion, less is more, and KISS :)
Less to go wrong, fewer connections to corrode.
 

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I am aware of this diagramm and it is not the HV Area that worries me; I use single contactor and fused each battery pack. I am worried because the manual of the Hyper ß controller says nothing about fusing the low voltage circuits from the 35 PIN cable. I think at least the key swich 12V Input signal should be fused.
 

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I am aware of this diagramm and it is not the HV Area that worries me; I use single contactor and fused each battery pack. I am worried because the manual of the Hyper ß controller says nothing about fusing the low voltage circuits from the 35 PIN cable. I think at least the key switch 12V Input signal should be fused.
Yes fair question, apart from the 20A fuse on keyswitch (I use 15A) there are few others on the 12v side. A spike on these low voltage circuits can blow the internal surface mount fuses in the controller (as happened to me as above). But this was a failure of a cheap meter which linked into both HV and LV systems - always a danger point to be avoided (hindsight is wonderful !). I haven't added any more fuses, as these are all failure points. But the mainly existing 12v vehicle system is well fused. I guess a 'risk analysis' helps - I've tried to avoid any unnecessary fuse that if failed would leave me stranded, say on a level crossing (YES this DID happen :LOL: ... on my 1st EV a smart car conversion). Otherwise think of the implications of shorts or failures, and associated risks in your car.
Its a balance:
Too many fuses etc = added complication and potential failure points.
Too few and in the (unlikely) event of a part or wire shorting what would the consequential damage/cascading errors and their costs ?
Sorry I dont have a rule for all.
.. anyone else ??
 

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I also think it is ok to fuse the keyswitch input, because it is the only circuit facing the 12 V system of the car. All other cables from the controller are more or less "switches" to be shorted to chassis ground. I wasn't sure about the 5V + cables to the throttle and motor but I think they will be handeld ith an internal error in the controller and not destroy anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I would agree that simply fusing the 12v input would make sense (if you look at the wiring diagram on page 6, it does show a fuse on that wire for the x144). I found the manual to be pretty easy to follow for the wiring, but I wish it would have included more details about the software setup side of things.

@4Foxtrot, I wanted to ask you about setting up regen. That link with all the controller functions was helpful to read over, but I seem to have missed where the section on regen is. Do you remember if it is in the traction settings, or somewhere in with the motor settings? Rainy weather is returning, so I am hoping I will have some time to mess with it some more soon. I want to set it up for single-pedal driving as I do not have a brake pedal transducer on my truck.
 

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Any one has had success with can bus communications ? I'm using an Orion 2 BMS ans trying to comunicate discharge and charge current limit to the SME.
The goal is for the SME to reduce power according to BMS calculations, that way the BMS doesn't open the battery contactors under load (wich is bad).
 

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Good thread! Signing in and introducing myself. I'm building a rear wheel drive Mini Minus (fibreglass mini) Hyper9 EV in the UK. To follow the build you simply need to follow the hastag #e_minus on Instagram, or follow user account patroclueus

My build differs a bit in that I'm going air-cooled on the X1 controller and battery pack. Going for 10x LG Chem 2.6kwh modules for 26kwH total (as-per ZeroEV's MX5). Hoping for even lighter than 4Foxtrot's Lotus, target 500kg! Direct drive to a Mazda RX8 LSD. Top speed will only be about 80-85mph.

My first question is regarding regen calibration - has anyone tried brake pedal pressure map for regen? This is how I plan to run my regen as I know the hardware and software supports it, I just haven't seen it implemented yet..? I will be installing a 0-5V pressure transducer in the brake circuit.

I also plan to use a CanBus display from ZeroEv so interested in poloLbricolo's question too! :)
 

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Any one has had success with can bus communications ? I'm using an Orion 2 BMS ans trying to comunicate discharge and charge current limit to the SME.
Hi - bad news I am afraid. I wanted to do exactly the same, and use Orion BMS to limit discharge and regen depending on battery temperature. Netgain have been trying to make it work with Ewert systems (who make Orion) but haven't been able to do it. I've been pestering them for over a year.
 

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I also think it is ok to fuse the keyswitch input, because it is the only circuit facing the 12 V system of the car. All other cables from the controller are more or less "switches" to be shorted to chassis ground. I wasn't sure about the 5V + cables to the throttle and motor but I think they will be handeld ith an internal error in the controller and not destroy anything.
I fuse key switch in (pin 24 on the low voltage system) with a 10A fuse. NONE of the controller cables should be grounded to the chassis. The ground wire is K1 or K12, within the controller wiring loom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I fuse key switch in (pin 24 on the low voltage system) with a 10A fuse. NONE of the controller cables should be grounded to the chassis. The ground wire is K1 or K12, within the controller wiring loom.
Yes, for the X1 Controller. However, the X144 (high voltage) controller is connected to the auxiliary battery, so by default it is grounded to the chassis, unless you have completely isolated your 12v system. This is I think the major difference between the two controllers, in most other regards they are the same.
 

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I am confused with all that cryptic grounds on the X144. First I connected Pin1 to Ground. Then there are several other grounds in the loom. To do nothing wrong I bridged all switches to Ground 1 instead of chassis. Now I see that all Ground connections can be chassis? I am confused about the diagrams in the manual. Also the function of the configurable digital outputs is not described very well. Because there is nothing to ground. Instead you drive a relay to switch the according function you select and configure in the software. It is all described very short.
 

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I am confused with all that cryptic grounds on the X144. First I connected Pin1 to Ground. Then there are several other grounds in the loom. To do nothing wrong I bridged all switches to Ground 1 instead of chassis. Now I see that all Ground connections can be chassis? I am confused about the diagrams in the manual. Also the function of the configurable digital outputs is not described very well. Because there is nothing to ground. Instead you drive a relay to switch the according function you select and configure in the software. It is all described very short.
I didn't ground anything in the ACX1 harness to the chassis, I kept it all 'internal' to the controller. So, for example, K5 (forward) can be connected via a switch to K1, I/O Ground. If so, it puts the motor in forward mode. If you connect K6 to K1, it would put motor in reverse.

If you are using the analogue inputs (say for throttle) you take 5V from K35, the throttle's wiper position to pin K11 and use K12 for ground wire.

As I understand it, K1 is used for 'digital' grounds, ie switches, and K12 is for analogue grounds like throttle. Whether there is difference between K1 and K12, I don't know.

When you configure the deceleration lights, it works by taking 12V from K10 to one side of a relay coil, and K30 for the other. K30 is actively pulled low to ground to enable the relay. ie, it's switched by grounding. The relay coil is galvanically isolated from the car's 12V system since I am keeping the ACX1 totally unconnected to the chassis, which I think is safer.
 

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Yes, on the X1 at least I don't believe any of the wires in the wiring harness are directly grounded to the chassis. Even 12v ones which could be grounded with no issues. I believe they all return to the controller and then there is a single grounding lead for 12v.
 
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