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Have seen others that attach the AXC1 directly to the Hyper9, but nobody does a similar integrated solution. The complete size of the unit might not always be an advantage and I'm still struggeling if that is the right way for my car. Maybe there are more disadvantage like vibrations from the motor going directly to the electric components and the integrated wiring.
Electric motors don't vibrate, at least to an extent which is an issue for properly built electronic components. Most production EVs have the controller/inverter case bolted directly to the motor or gearbox case.
 

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Hey there,

this thread is awesome. I converted 2 cars now and I had a few questions which are mentioned here.
There's a Gigavac GV200QA in this conversion kit with the Hyper9.
Is it really normal for the contactor to make this annoying humming/buzzing noise? It's because of the PWM signal of the SME inverter which runs the contactor with max. 1kHz.
Just got the answer from Gigavac support which says the GV200QA normally is run with 25kHz so humans can't hear the noise.
Is there a way to use a contactor with included economizer and don't use the inverter signal?
 

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Hey there,

this thread is awesome. I converted 2 cars now and I had a few questions which are mentioned here.
There's a Gigavac GV200QA in this conversion kit with the Hyper9.
Is it really normal for the contactor to make this annoying humming/buzzing noise? It's because of the PWM signal of the SME inverter which runs the contactor with max. 1kHz.
Just got the answer from Gigavac support which says the GV200QA normally is run with 25kHz so humans can't hear the noise.
Is there a way to use a contactor with included economizer and don't use the inverter signal?
Yes, it's normal. It gave me a bit of a scare when I first got it going, I wasn't expecting it.

You can change the frequency in the ACX1 software, I believe it's under Configure->System->Mains->Main Contactor. I don't know whether it will go up to 25kHz.
 

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Hi - welcome!

I bought my Hyper 9LV from Electric Classic Cars because he also sold the adapter plate I needed (I converted a Beetle). I bought the charger from Zero EV in Bristol, because he had the batteries I wanted at the time. The charger is this one Elcon TC Charger 6.6kW 50-198V - 46A - Zero EV and it's been perfectly fine for me. Very easy to wire in and no setup needed - all controlled by CANbus via my BMS (Orion2).

What are you converting?
Sorry for the delay I have not got email notification on.
Thanks for the info. I have not decided on a donor yet. still looking.
 

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One tiny consideration is that certain isolation materials will absorb or not transmit certain frequencies preferentially. If the coil can maintain a closed state at anything you can program, you may choose your isolators accordingly.
 

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Yeah I will consider that. Set the frequency at 125Hz now and it's much more comfortable because there are other sounds at this frequencies too. So it doesn't stick out that much anymore. Hope the contactor can hold the contacts at this frequency - the time will show.
 

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Awesome thread!
Mark, we are doing a similar build on Porsche 912. (5) Tesla Batteries, EV West Hyper 9 Kit, AC1X controller, Dilithium BMS. Getting a a blocking fault on starting up the controller - "Driver Out 2 Open".. Driver Out 1 controls the 48V contactor, but Driver Out 2/3/4 don't do anything in our setup. Earlier versions of the Hyper9 schematic show these pins connected to similar loads (e.g Emer Brake), but latest kit doesn't even have these pins (K-27/28/29) in the 35-pin Ampseal connector. Any help greatly appreciated! -Ryan
View attachment 122161
Hi Ryan,

Can you send me some detailed pics of your HV JB I see on the side of the motor - would love to know what you packed in there.

Thanks - Patrick
 

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@OR-Carl Thanks SO much for setting this thread up (y) A place for Tips, Tricks, Experiences .. Netgain Hyper9
(I'm still 'Newby' status or have somehow upset the gods, err mods :LOL: ). .. I'm still pretty crap on forum etiquette - if so apologies to OP @OR-Carl if the following experiences are not the correct format 🙏

Hyper9 are amazingly useful motors, controllers and TAU software they are getting to be a 'go-to' by several top line EV conversion companies eg EV West, Electric Classic Cars as on 'Vintage Voltage' TV series, and Zero-EV. I chose it as it works on relatively low voltage ~100 to 130, or upto 170 for the HV version, and it is relatively light ~60Kg.

BUT .. do a google search and there are not many tips, tricks and experiences.
SO .. as this forum is much more permanent, and easy to find stuff than facebook EV groups (and their 'random' newsfeeds :LOL: ) etc.

I hope other Hyper9 users agree and you'll add experiences (good and bad), tips, tricks and general open sharing of knowledge.

kick off, attempt 2:
I chose a Hyper9 because: it was lightish (60kg), and low voltage (125v) .. so would work with 5 Tesla Modules. I needed light as poss and approx 120bhp for a 1969 Lotus 'Elon' to match original weight (achieved with 20kg saving) and power. DC was an option but weight and lack of regen put me off .. the conversion HAD to be super light to be worth doing.
The hyper9 is actually made in china for an Italian Co. (SME), now part of Dana TM4 automotive, Netgain are exclusive resellers and have added a standard end plate, (similar to their DC motors .. with imperial/US threads).

FWIW I discounted other even lighter setup as: a) costs too high: even if can find a light motor eg 20Kg / 150Kw+ b) they needed an expensive controller, and only 'code it yourself' software. c) mostly 400+ Volt systems (OK but need volt or string together own batteries. d) Many leading light and powerful OEM motor companies would not even talk to me as a DIYer (even tho' I design EV's .. OK bikes :) ) . I tried, several axial flux makers, YASA, TM4-MOTIVE, Phi, Emrax, Magnax, Equipmake, Swindon etc. but unless the volume was automotive scale 1000's the door was shut :)

Below was 'work in progress' - motor just fitted, last year, its now a bit tidier :)
View attachment 122092

Problems:
1. Controller - blew (dead !! - now alive)
With system all off - a cheap chinese main battery voltage gauge shorted and sent a spike to earth, this back tracked and took out both the prius throttle pedal and several controller circuits. I checked wiring (for the nth time) and found there was a problem in the controller. I asked local supplier and Netgain about repairs, and bottom line the shipping investigation and fixes would probably cost as much as a new controller. Also, as its a DIY item unless parts are DOA, there would be no warrantee ;-( . So bit the bullet and bought another as rest of car was just working well (and frankly I was a bit impatient !) .. £2200 lighter and the new one slotted in - fixed .
BUT out of interest (I wish I'd tried this before) - I opened the old controller and found:
TIP: all low voltage connections are protected by tiny surface mount fuses. I know surface mount is a challenge but with a magnifying glass and a solder fuse wire the controller was brought back from the dead !! (now a spare .. or possibly for another project).
View attachment 122093

2. Wire colours
Maybe I got a bad loom, but I found some colours just did not match the manual - K1-21 was yellow )Not black/blue) and K1-32 was blue not white /green .

TIPS:
1. Calling netgain works better than emails... and Hunter is a gent, and real bundle of knowledge .. I just wish he'd add what he knows to the website/instructions 🙏
2. Use as many soldered joints as possible - more reliable than crimps (or for 'belt and braces' crimp AND solder)
3. Check wiring 3 x !!
4. Controller gets warm without cooling plate but stays cool with plate and even small water flow. Motor stays cooler than batteries when pressing on (now I've added more battery cooling)
5. Get the compact display - it adds easy control of 3 modes of regen (1 more thans a tesla !!)
AND if you set wheel diameter to 85mm, in the TAU software the speed shown is RPM, it can show all sorts of instant temperatures, Volts, amps, etc more accessible than driving with a PC on the seat .. or .. exporting canBUS
6. Beg Hunter for the OEM /dealer version of the SME Tau software .. Warning: you CAN kill yourself/system ... but at the very least it allows you to lower the frequency of the contactor to make it almost silent !!! (and adds many more useful options). I cant post the software, but HERE are the help files which show capabilities.
Some screen shots:
View attachment 122094

Discussion / Questions / Requests
1. Voltage sag
Working with low voltage system eg 125v vs usual 400v There can be A LOT of voltage sag under full power ... as recorded on an early test drive below shows:

121870


This means that although the full 800/850 Amps can be pulled, the voltage drops at ~70% SOC from ~118v to ~95v
So giving only 800a x 95v = 76kW, but without voltage sag, say at 125v / (~ 95% SOC) this would be up to 800a x 125v = 100Kw (130 BHP).
Future experiment ... use a higher pack voltage, say 144v (on the low voltage Hyper9) but only charge to say 90% SOC (ie just under max ~132V) to get the full 100Kw more easily.
Thoughts ??
(The HV motor and controller has same max KW output but at a lower current , and more battery weight)

Below from netgain show that IF the voltage can be prevented from sagging and kept at 132v , then the peak output can be as much as 112kW which is pretty damn good !!

View attachment 122095

2. Help:
Any canBUS gurus who have used Hyper9/ TAU and are willing to share experiences ? ie who can offer a drop in connection to the SME canbus output ? eg to say a bluetooth code reader ?? or other gauges / rpm temps etc. (I cheated and used the existing analogue dials :) )

Sorry to go on but, overall v happy with the Hyper9 AND I'm....

looking forward to hearing other peoples Hyper9 experiences, tips and discussions.
Cheers,
Mark, Dorset, UK
Great writeup on the Nextgen!
I am just getting through a conversion on a 08 beetle
I was reading the article on displaying RPM on the SME compact display and you said set the tire diameter to 85mm
what was the gear ratio and MPH or KMH?
thanks a lot
Rod
 

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I was reading the article on displaying RPM on the SME compact display and you said set the tire diameter to 85mm
what was the gear ratio and MPH or KMH?
A 2008 Beetle's tires are about 620 mm in diameter overall, 85 mm would be ridiculous and even 850 mm would be far off. Is there a typo in there?
 

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Great writeup on the Nextgen!
I am just getting through a conversion on a 08 beetle
I was reading the article on displaying RPM on the SME compact display and you said set the tire diameter to 85mm
what was the gear ratio and MPH or KMH?
thanks a lot
Rod
iirc gear ratio set to 1:1 and with 85mm tyre diameter to show MOTOR rpm on the compact display. This is an alternative tacho (not speedo).
For speedo follow netgain instructions which only apply to single speed transmissions.
 

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iirc gear ratio set to 1:1 and with 85mm tyre diameter to show MOTOR rpm on the compact display. This is an alternative tacho (not speedo).
For speedo follow netgain instructions which only apply to single speed transmissions.
That makes sense (if the ratio of actual tire diameter to 85 mm is the same as the overall transmission ratio)... although it makes no sense to bother with separate motor speed and road speed displays with a single-speed transmission.
 

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That makes sense (if the ratio of actual tire diameter to 85 mm is the same as the overall transmission ratio)... although it makes no sense to bother with separate motor speed and road speed displays with a single-speed transmission.
This is just a trick to display the motor RPM in case you don't have a tacho.
Its independent of the transmission ratio, actual tyre size etc. Its useful because the Netgain display normally shows road speed , and if you already have a speedo (or GPS speedo) a tacho is useful (OK ... maybe only for nerds like us 😆 )
 
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