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Discussion Starter #1
Introducing the TesLorean

TesLorean = Delorean & Tesla

Four years ago this week I got my Delorean with the plan to convert it to electric drive. I wanted to do a conversion project and coming from N. Ireland (now living in Texas) I have a connection with and love for The DeLorean DMC-12.

The plan is to fit the rear motor from a Tesla 70D and replace the DeLorean's V6 PRV engine (105hp at the wheels) and stock transmission.

Lots and lots of engineering, design, programming, and swearing to come.

Jeff
 

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Yes, good luck.
It looks like you have many of the main components, and control solutions seem to becomming available.
What is your plan for battery and where to locate it ?
Keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I plan to get as much of the battery split between the old fuel tank location (near frame bottom just forward of the drivers and passengers feet), and the engine bay. The Delorean is set up for a 40% front and 60% rear weight distribution, so I'd like to get as close to that as I can. If I have to I can use some space in the frunk to house batteries, although the AC condenser will be relocating up front (no longer a need to have it in the engine bay).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Very cool, very exciting project!
Any thoughts on your expected finish spec?(range, battery type, 0-60 etc?)

Look forward to more posts!
Well there's what I would like and what I think I can reasonable get :)

The DeLorean is about 3000 lbs stock (manual), so this configuration will allow the engine and transmission to come out, plus a whole lot more (alternator, belt driven water pump, exhaust, fuel tank, etc.) Of course a lot has to go in, but I'm aiming for equivalent weight 3000 lbs once done.

I'm not so focused on the 0-60, but I think it should be considerably better than stock <10 secs. I would hope for 7 or less.

As far as range is considered I'd like to be able to get around Houston - about as far as I ever took the ICE DeLorean - long road trips in a 35 year old car can be 'interesting'.

I've been holding off on a battery decision. Seems like so many options are becoming available at better prices. I like the idea of OEM because then I've got a replacement path if I need one.
 

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Well there's what I would like and what I think I can reasonable get :)

The DeLorean is about 3000 lbs stock (manual), so this configuration will allow the engine and transmission to come out, plus a whole lot more (alternator, belt driven water pump, exhaust, fuel tank, etc.) Of course a lot has to go in, but I'm aiming for equivalent weight 3000 lbs once done.

I'm not so focused on the 0-60, but I think it should be considerably better than stock <10 secs. I would hope for 7 or less.

As far as range is considered I'd like to be able to get around Houston - about as far as I ever took the ICE DeLorean - long road trips in a 35 year old car can be 'interesting'.

I've been holding off on a battery decision. Seems like so many options are becoming available at better prices. I like the idea of OEM because then I've got a replacement path if I need one.
I think you are on a perfect track with your target setting. I'd say 7sec will be achieved quite easily with that motor and with 100km capable battery pack.

Best of luck!
 

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Did I miss what you intend to use to control that beastie?

Awesome project- subscribed, keeping an eye on progress! Post lots of pics!
 

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Did I miss what you intend to use to control that beastie?

Awesome project- subscribed, keeping an eye on progress! Post lots of pics!
Control it ? No idea - well no idea that can be bought off the shelf today. But I'm taking the risk that one of several methods will come to fruition... or I build it. My background is software so I'd probably lean towards the CAN route, but the most flexible solutions are likely to be replacement motor drivers.

Once I get organized I'm going to do a forensic-like examination of the motor/inverter, probably most detailed on the inverter to see what I've got and start to get an understanding of the best path(s) forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, that setup should certainly get you back to the future in a hurry.....
I also now have the Bosch iBooster brake system (master cylinder and electronic assist - no vacuum) and the AC compressor, both from the 2015 70D.

Some serious CAN investigating to do. It will be the future before I can get this thing running :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow, that drivetrain package looks really compact. How much does it weigh?
Weight is measured with a scale but an estimate based on two measurements (sum of weights lifting one side then the other) 210 lbs

Other measurements (again just rough)
- 22 in wide (motor to inverter), 26 3/4in wide including the mount
- trans final gear housing is 8" wide (shaft port to port)
- 13in tall
- 25in front to back, including mount on front and back
- drive shaft to motor centerline ~8in (measured from above)

Jeff
 

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Figuring out the iBooster brake system - Starting with Physical Wiring

The Black and Yellow-Grey are likely the power to the unit (probably 12v, but sized for high current maybe 20-30 amps). Four wires run between the ECU pedal travel sensors (seem heavy gauge for sensors?). Seen as the four wires running to the connector at the bottom right of the pic.

Only 12 wires in the 26 pin connector. The Green & Green-white and the Yellow-Red & Yellow-Green are likely CAN since they are twisted pairs and of a suitable gauge (talking to the ESP and other systems?) . Both twisted pairs also go through a connector (of sorts) to branch off to addition same colored wiring (again probably CAN).

The solid Red and Red-White are different gauges - not sure of purpose yet. Solid red is the heavier gauge.

The ECU pack has a sealed connector to the motor control - probably where the power connections pass through. It looks like the ECU is held against the motor controller and has a waterproof seal.
 

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Figuring out the Tesla AC Compressor - Physical Wiring

The unit has six wires, two are high voltage power (encased in orange). There are four additional wires that run directly to the AC motor control.

In the harness these are colored... Black, Red, White-Red, and White-Brown.

These go through a connector and then route into the motor control on wires colored... Black, Blue, Green, and Red.

None of the wire pairs are twisted - so no CAN control.

Photo shows the bracket and three isolation mounts. The unit has noise reduction covering - think foam. The high pressure connection is already removed.
 

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Control it ? No idea -

Once I get organized I'm going to do a forensic-like examination of the motor/inverter, probably most detailed on the inverter to see what I've got and start to get an understanding of the best path(s) forward.
I assume you have seen and read the other threads from folks working with the Tesla drive train ?
In particular that of "Eldis". Who had focussed on that Tesla inverter/ controller.
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152890&highlight=tesla
 

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Figuring out the iBooster brake system - Starting with Physical Wiring ...

The ECU pack has a sealed connector to the motor control - probably where the power connections pass through. It looks like the ECU is held against the motor controller and has a waterproof seal.
It works!. The iBooster from the Tesla 70D with autopilot. A relatively simple way of providing vacuum-less brake assist to an EV - AND only consumes material power when actually braking - AND quiet.

I made a video last night - but Internet connectivity problems kept me from uploading - coming soon. I left the Yaw (CAN) and CAN2 unconnected (CAN are the twisted pair wires) and just put +12V on the Motor power (yellow-grey), ECU power (Red thick), and Ignition_On (Red thin), plus ground (Black). Tried it with and without Ignition_On. Without ignition_on it does not provide assist, except for the 15-30 seconds just after switching the ignition off. With ignition_on it provides breaking assist immediately.

Now on to the process of figuring out the physical placement and bracing.
 

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Nice project!

I'm planning on using the Tesla 70D drivetrain also, so I plugged the DeLorean into my EVcalc Google spreadsheet, using a Chevy Volt pack, and it looks like a range of [email protected] cruise, max speed 144mph, 0-60 ~4s

In fact you might be able to get to 88mph in under 7s.

(Bear in mind you have to run the flux capacitor at 20C to get that acceleration :) )

If you want to play with the variables here's the link

(If you want to make serious edits you'll want to make a copy in your G drive)




Good luck!
 

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