Cool idea. Good luck.
major
major
The TesLorean
Introducing the TesLorean
TesLorean = Delorean & Tesla
Four years ago this week I got my Delorean with the plan to convert it to electric drive. I wanted to do a conversion project and coming from N. Ireland (now living in Texas) I have a connection with and love for The DeLorean DMC-12.
The plan is to fit the rear motor from a Tesla 70D and replace the DeLorean's V6 PRV engine (105hp at the wheels) and stock transmission.
Lots and lots of engineering, design, programming, and swearing to come.
Jeff
TesLorean = Delorean & Tesla
Four years ago this week I got my Delorean with the plan to convert it to electric drive. I wanted to do a conversion project and coming from N. Ireland (now living in Texas) I have a connection with and love for The DeLorean DMC-12.
The plan is to fit the rear motor from a Tesla 70D and replace the DeLorean's V6 PRV engine (105hp at the wheels) and stock transmission.
Lots and lots of engineering, design, programming, and swearing to come.
Jeff
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Well there's what I would like and what I think I can reasonable get
The DeLorean is about 3000 lbs stock (manual), so this configuration will allow the engine and transmission to come out, plus a whole lot more (alternator, belt driven water pump, exhaust, fuel tank, etc.) Of course a lot has to go in, but I'm aiming for equivalent weight 3000 lbs once done.
I'm not so focused on the 0-60, but I think it should be considerably better than stock <10 secs. I would hope for 7 or less.
As far as range is considered I'd like to be able to get around Houston - about as far as I ever took the ICE DeLorean - long road trips in a 35 year old car can be 'interesting'.
I've been holding off on a battery decision. Seems like so many options are becoming available at better prices. I like the idea of OEM because then I've got a replacement path if I need one.
I think you are on a perfect track with your target setting. I'd say 7sec will be achieved quite easily with that motor and with 100km capable battery pack.Well there's what I would like and what I think I can reasonable get
The DeLorean is about 3000 lbs stock (manual), so this configuration will allow the engine and transmission to come out, plus a whole lot more (alternator, belt driven water pump, exhaust, fuel tank, etc.) Of course a lot has to go in, but I'm aiming for equivalent weight 3000 lbs once done.
I'm not so focused on the 0-60, but I think it should be considerably better than stock <10 secs. I would hope for 7 or less.
As far as range is considered I'd like to be able to get around Houston - about as far as I ever took the ICE DeLorean - long road trips in a 35 year old car can be 'interesting'.
I've been holding off on a battery decision. Seems like so many options are becoming available at better prices. I like the idea of OEM because then I've got a replacement path if I need one.
Best of luck!
I also now have the Bosch iBooster brake system (master cylinder and electronic assist - no vacuum) and the AC compressor, both from the 2015 70D.
Some serious CAN investigating to do. It will be the future before I can get this thing running
Figuring out the iBooster brake system - Starting with Physical Wiring
The Black and Yellow-Grey are likely the power to the unit (probably 12v, but sized for high current maybe 20-30 amps). Four wires run between the ECU pedal travel sensors (seem heavy gauge for sensors?). Seen as the four wires running to the connector at the bottom right of the pic.
Only 12 wires in the 26 pin connector. The Green & Green-white and the Yellow-Red & Yellow-Green are likely CAN since they are twisted pairs and of a suitable gauge (talking to the ESP and other systems?) . Both twisted pairs also go through a connector (of sorts) to branch off to addition same colored wiring (again probably CAN).
The solid Red and Red-White are different gauges - not sure of purpose yet. Solid red is the heavier gauge.
The ECU pack has a sealed connector to the motor control - probably where the power connections pass through. It looks like the ECU is held against the motor controller and has a waterproof seal.
The Black and Yellow-Grey are likely the power to the unit (probably 12v, but sized for high current maybe 20-30 amps). Four wires run between the ECU pedal travel sensors (seem heavy gauge for sensors?). Seen as the four wires running to the connector at the bottom right of the pic.
Only 12 wires in the 26 pin connector. The Green & Green-white and the Yellow-Red & Yellow-Green are likely CAN since they are twisted pairs and of a suitable gauge (talking to the ESP and other systems?) . Both twisted pairs also go through a connector (of sorts) to branch off to addition same colored wiring (again probably CAN).
The solid Red and Red-White are different gauges - not sure of purpose yet. Solid red is the heavier gauge.
The ECU pack has a sealed connector to the motor control - probably where the power connections pass through. It looks like the ECU is held against the motor controller and has a waterproof seal.
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Figuring out the Tesla AC Compressor - Physical Wiring
The unit has six wires, two are high voltage power (encased in orange). There are four additional wires that run directly to the AC motor control.
In the harness these are colored... Black, Red, White-Red, and White-Brown.
These go through a connector and then route into the motor control on wires colored... Black, Blue, Green, and Red.
None of the wire pairs are twisted - so no CAN control.
Photo shows the bracket and three isolation mounts. The unit has noise reduction covering - think foam. The high pressure connection is already removed.
The unit has six wires, two are high voltage power (encased in orange). There are four additional wires that run directly to the AC motor control.
In the harness these are colored... Black, Red, White-Red, and White-Brown.
These go through a connector and then route into the motor control on wires colored... Black, Blue, Green, and Red.
None of the wire pairs are twisted - so no CAN control.
Photo shows the bracket and three isolation mounts. The unit has noise reduction covering - think foam. The high pressure connection is already removed.
Attachments
Nice project!
I'm planning on using the Tesla 70D drivetrain also, so I plugged the DeLorean into my EVcalc Google spreadsheet, using a Chevy Volt pack, and it looks like a range of [email protected] cruise, max speed 144mph, 0-60 ~4s
In fact you might be able to get to 88mph in under 7s.
(Bear in mind you have to run the flux capacitor at 20C to get that acceleration )
If you want to play with the variables here's the link
(If you want to make serious edits you'll want to make a copy in your G drive)
Good luck!
I'm planning on using the Tesla 70D drivetrain also, so I plugged the DeLorean into my EVcalc Google spreadsheet, using a Chevy Volt pack, and it looks like a range of [email protected] cruise, max speed 144mph, 0-60 ~4s
In fact you might be able to get to 88mph in under 7s.
(Bear in mind you have to run the flux capacitor at 20C to get that acceleration
)If you want to play with the variables here's the link
(If you want to make serious edits you'll want to make a copy in your G drive)
Good luck!
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