DIY Electric Car Forums banner
1 - 20 of 54 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Introducing the TesLorean

TesLorean = Delorean & Tesla

Four years ago this week I got my Delorean with the plan to convert it to electric drive. I wanted to do a conversion project and coming from N. Ireland (now living in Texas) I have a connection with and love for The DeLorean DMC-12.

The plan is to fit the rear motor from a Tesla 70D and replace the DeLorean's V6 PRV engine (105hp at the wheels) and stock transmission.

Lots and lots of engineering, design, programming, and swearing to come.

Jeff
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I plan to get as much of the battery split between the old fuel tank location (near frame bottom just forward of the drivers and passengers feet), and the engine bay. The Delorean is set up for a 40% front and 60% rear weight distribution, so I'd like to get as close to that as I can. If I have to I can use some space in the frunk to house batteries, although the AC condenser will be relocating up front (no longer a need to have it in the engine bay).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Very cool, very exciting project!
Any thoughts on your expected finish spec?(range, battery type, 0-60 etc?)

Look forward to more posts!
Well there's what I would like and what I think I can reasonable get :)

The DeLorean is about 3000 lbs stock (manual), so this configuration will allow the engine and transmission to come out, plus a whole lot more (alternator, belt driven water pump, exhaust, fuel tank, etc.) Of course a lot has to go in, but I'm aiming for equivalent weight 3000 lbs once done.

I'm not so focused on the 0-60, but I think it should be considerably better than stock <10 secs. I would hope for 7 or less.

As far as range is considered I'd like to be able to get around Houston - about as far as I ever took the ICE DeLorean - long road trips in a 35 year old car can be 'interesting'.

I've been holding off on a battery decision. Seems like so many options are becoming available at better prices. I like the idea of OEM because then I've got a replacement path if I need one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Did I miss what you intend to use to control that beastie?

Awesome project- subscribed, keeping an eye on progress! Post lots of pics!
Control it ? No idea - well no idea that can be bought off the shelf today. But I'm taking the risk that one of several methods will come to fruition... or I build it. My background is software so I'd probably lean towards the CAN route, but the most flexible solutions are likely to be replacement motor drivers.

Once I get organized I'm going to do a forensic-like examination of the motor/inverter, probably most detailed on the inverter to see what I've got and start to get an understanding of the best path(s) forward.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wow, that drivetrain package looks really compact. How much does it weigh?
Weight is measured with a scale but an estimate based on two measurements (sum of weights lifting one side then the other) 210 lbs

Other measurements (again just rough)
- 22 in wide (motor to inverter), 26 3/4in wide including the mount
- trans final gear housing is 8" wide (shaft port to port)
- 13in tall
- 25in front to back, including mount on front and back
- drive shaft to motor centerline ~8in (measured from above)

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Figuring out the iBooster brake system - Starting with Physical Wiring

The Black and Yellow-Grey are likely the power to the unit (probably 12v, but sized for high current maybe 20-30 amps). Four wires run between the ECU pedal travel sensors (seem heavy gauge for sensors?). Seen as the four wires running to the connector at the bottom right of the pic.

Only 12 wires in the 26 pin connector. The Green & Green-white and the Yellow-Red & Yellow-Green are likely CAN since they are twisted pairs and of a suitable gauge (talking to the ESP and other systems?) . Both twisted pairs also go through a connector (of sorts) to branch off to addition same colored wiring (again probably CAN).

The solid Red and Red-White are different gauges - not sure of purpose yet. Solid red is the heavier gauge.

The ECU pack has a sealed connector to the motor control - probably where the power connections pass through. It looks like the ECU is held against the motor controller and has a waterproof seal.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Figuring out the Tesla AC Compressor - Physical Wiring

The unit has six wires, two are high voltage power (encased in orange). There are four additional wires that run directly to the AC motor control.

In the harness these are colored... Black, Red, White-Red, and White-Brown.

These go through a connector and then route into the motor control on wires colored... Black, Blue, Green, and Red.

None of the wire pairs are twisted - so no CAN control.

Photo shows the bracket and three isolation mounts. The unit has noise reduction covering - think foam. The high pressure connection is already removed.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Figuring out the iBooster brake system - Starting with Physical Wiring ...

The ECU pack has a sealed connector to the motor control - probably where the power connections pass through. It looks like the ECU is held against the motor controller and has a waterproof seal.
It works!. The iBooster from the Tesla 70D with autopilot. A relatively simple way of providing vacuum-less brake assist to an EV - AND only consumes material power when actually braking - AND quiet.

I made a video last night - but Internet connectivity problems kept me from uploading - coming soon. I left the Yaw (CAN) and CAN2 unconnected (CAN are the twisted pair wires) and just put +12V on the Motor power (yellow-grey), ECU power (Red thick), and Ignition_On (Red thin), plus ground (Black). Tried it with and without Ignition_On. Without ignition_on it does not provide assist, except for the 15-30 seconds just after switching the ignition off. With ignition_on it provides breaking assist immediately.

Now on to the process of figuring out the physical placement and bracing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Nice project!

I'm planning on using the Tesla 70D drivetrain also, so I plugged the DeLorean into my EVcalc Google spreadsheet, using a Chevy Volt pack, and it looks like a range of [email protected] cruise, max speed 125mph, 0-60 ~4s

...
Hi jetpax,

Are you including both motors from the 70D (front and rear). The motor I have is the rear motor from the 70D AWD (two equal sized motors), which is listed as 170kw (or 259HP). Entering this information, looks like it should give ~6 secs 0-60 based on your calculator link. Cool calculator btw.

I think it might come in a little lighter than 3300 lbs. The Tesla drive unit has the advantage of being able to remove the transmission which shaves a few extra pounds.

Thanks
Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I'm removing the stock DeLorean transmission, not the transmission from the Tesla drive unit (sorry, I didn't word the original post the best).

The DeLorean currently has a 5-speed manual transmission. I'm guessing it probably comes in at ~200lbs. Of course removing the stock transmission means the gear shift linkage will go to. I'm not sure about removing the gear stick itself since it will change the look and feel inside the car. I'm playing with the idea of leaving the gear shift lever and just hooking it up to some switches (maybe a new guide plate) and using it for some other purpose. Alternatively, I could remove the gear stick and put in some cup holders in the center console :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
The inverter especially looks really small compared with the original Model S.

Is it the same as the attached pic, or do you have any more pictures of the motor inverter assembly (ie other side than you posted earlier)?
Here are some photos of the inverter (still attached to the drive unit). I added these to my TesLorean album (if you can see that). Not used to uploading photos to DIYElectricCar, so hopefully I've done this right.

Yes the inverter is much smaller that the previous rear drive unit. It is one of the main reasons why the unit will (almost, we'll see) fit into the engine cradle frame in the DeLorean. The larger drive unit would have entailed removing and rebuilding the rear sub-frame of the DeLorean.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
The foil sheild looks like noise reduction layering - a gummy rubber like layer and then a layer of foil. I've used sheets like that on the DeLorean sold by Eastwood, for noise and heat shielding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
??? Maybe some kind of "RF containment" /sheild to isolate the inverter from any other electronic gear located in the rear of the Tesla ?
I don't show it in these photos of the drive unit, but the motor also had a thick matting and heavy rubber 'sock' around it (removed for photos).

I wonder if Tesla went the extra length to guard against any noise from the drive unit - perhaps with all the attention on the grinding noise, they didn't want to be replacing units that are making a quite normal level and types of noises - i.e. leading to expensive misdiagnoses.

There's also now high expectations of how quiet the Tesla should be, and of course noise volumes are relative (a small noise can be perceived as louder if there is no background noise).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Nice project!

I'm planning on using the Tesla 70D drivetrain also, so I plugged the DeLorean into my EVcalc Google spreadsheet, using a Chevy Volt pack, and it looks like a range of [email protected] cruise, max speed 144mph, 0-60 ~4s

...QUOTE]

Hi jetpax,

I think I keep screwing up your calculator copy on Google Sheets. I'm new to Sheets (but Excel guru) and I may have updated some of your data.

I was looking at the wheel size information. The rear delorean wheels are 235/60R15, giving an outer size of 663mm. I noticed the sheet didn't have a formula in the cell that looks like it should be calculating wheel size in mm (which the inch conversion cell refers to).

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
No worries, I'm closely following WK057. Control of the Tesla drive unit is very promising. I wish I could fit the large drive into the Delorean ( and still look like a Delorean ), but it's the AWD rear drive unit for me.
 
1 - 20 of 54 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top