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The TesLorean

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Introducing the TesLorean

TesLorean = Delorean & Tesla

Four years ago this week I got my Delorean with the plan to convert it to electric drive. I wanted to do a conversion project and coming from N. Ireland (now living in Texas) I have a connection with and love for The DeLorean DMC-12.

The plan is to fit the rear motor from a Tesla 70D and replace the DeLorean's V6 PRV engine (105hp at the wheels) and stock transmission.

Lots and lots of engineering, design, programming, and swearing to come.



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The reconfigured Tesla modules could work. I'd certainly like to see some feedback on actual usage. The biggest challenge is space and weight distribution. 7-8 modules mean taking up engine bay and the DeLoreans frunk. Even with good weight distribution, battery placement is likely to raise the center of gravity to a greater height.
Quick update on the TesLorean project...

Lots of powder coating on rear suspension parts and calipers. Getting closer to putting the wheel back on and starting the body/frame separation. Surprising what you can achieve with a toaster over, besides just toast.

Got some new Tesla parts 1) Tesla PTC Heater (electric air heater), and 2) Tesla HVJB . The design previously called for the same coolant loop that cooled/heated the drive unit & batteries to also heat the cabin, but after further study the heat from the drive unit / batteries would not show up fast enough to aid in defrosting the windows. This removes the need for a coolant loop into the airbox, so the coolant loops can stay with the batteries and drive unit. The Delorean airbox will need to be modified to accommodate the PTC heater.



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Since the Delorean is a 35 year old car, rather than just convert it to electric, it is begs to do more... renew components (rubber bushings), upgrade original parts (bolts subject to premature failure), and improve on the design in preparation for E demands.

Key changes...
- poly bushing and inconel bolt on the trailing arm
- new bushings throughout
- rebuilt caliper and upgraded lines
- adjustable shocks

Still rebuilding the parking brake.


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In preparation for frame-body separation

I've been running down through the checklist to separate the DeLorean body from the frame. Got everything done apart from getting the wheels back on and the stick shift lever freed.

The stainless is a skin that sits on top of a fiberglass 'tub' (you can see it here as the black structure), which then mounts on top of the frame. The suspension, engine, and transmission are all mounted to the frame (the parts epoxy coated in grey).

Once I get the body and frame separated, I'll remove the engine and transmission, and then start positioning the Tesla small rear motor - to measure for drive axles and mounts.


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Tesla steering wheel control buttons - DECODED

Some background... Tesla Model S steering column is a Mercedes Benz unit. The control buttons in the steering wheel pad talk LIN (via the clock spring) on three wires back to the circuit on the main column. The main column then talks CAN to the rest of the car.

To start with I tried (without success) to wake up the steering column (with CAN messages) and get it to send CAN frames when the steering pad or control stalks were used. The only buttons that sent CAN were the steering column position adjuster and the P'ark button. Even so, activating any of these sent out a stream of CAN messages, but for every CAN frame containing useful data, there were 100s of frames with nothing useful (3 second long stream of crap frames).

I decided to interface directly with the (19200 baud) LIN messages coming from the steering pad controls. LIN is not as easily approachable as CAN, but I eventually got it to work. The steering wheel pad and control buttons can be removed and disconnected from the clock spring.

I used...

1) LIN-BUS (from skpang, via CopperHill Technologies in the US (
- Essentially just protects the Arduino from the 12v LIN bus. You supply it with 12v, it powers up the LIN connection, and then it outputs a TX/RX 5v connection for the Arduino. Finally got it going after figuring out that CS (chip select) needed to be 12v to activate the chip.

2) Modified code from Andrew Stone on Github
- Andrews LIN code was very helpful, but I did need to back out his demo code specifically designed to talk to two LIN-enabled multicolored LEDs. My new main code prompts LIN-slave chips on the steering pad buttons for a response. LIN is a prompt and response network, so the Arduino stands in for the Master node. (Note: I tried using the LIN-BUS code by zapta on github, but I was unable to get it to be reliable for this application. It attempts, by using interrupts and clever timing, to make a digital pin on the Arduino act like a serial RX pin.)

3) I also used an Arduino Mega (with additional hardware serial ports - other than the one used to talk back to the PC via the USB port). The LIN-BUS is connected to the Serial1 pins 18,19 on the Arduino.

The Arduino code acts as a Master node in the 'steering pad' LIN network. It sends out a request with the ID 0X3D, and gets 8 bytes (1 ID byte and 7 data bytes) in response back from the LIN slaves in the steering pad. Depending on which buttons are pressed / wheels rolled, the bytes of the response are modified.

My TesLorean goal in all this is to replace the stock DeLorean steering wheel with the Tesla wheel. I will also be using the Tesla stalks for PNDR and indicators/beams/wipers. The LIN messages from the steering pad will be combined with the stalk control signals to produce TesLorean CAN messages for the main computer (which will link to the motor controller, battery BMS, charger, etc).

LIN Network Responses

ID + 7 bytes

Prompt 0x12 Receive ID 0x00 and 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
(while the steering pad responds to prompt id 0x12, returned data is always 00,...,00
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00

Horn ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 00 01 82 80 00 00 00

Voice & Right Up ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x08 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00

Menu Back & Right Down ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x20 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00

Scroll Wheel Right Press ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x10 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00

Scroll Wheel Right Down ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 3C 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down 1 click)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 38 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down 2 clicks)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 34 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down 3 clicks)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 20 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down N clicks)

Scroll Wheel Right Up ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 04 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up 1 click)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x00 and 08 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up 2 clicks)

Forward & Left + ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x01 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00

Back & Left - ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x04 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00

Scroll Wheel Left Press ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x02 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00

Scroll Wheel Left Down ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0xC0 and 03 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down 1 click)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x80 and 03 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down 2 clicks)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x40 and 03 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down 3 clicks)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0xC0 and 02 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down N click)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x80 and 02 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down N+ clicks)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x40 and 02 00 82 80 00 00 00 (down N++ clicks)

Scroll Wheel Left Up ::
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x40 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up 1 click)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x80 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up 2 clicks)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0xC0 and 00 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up 3 clicks)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x40 and 01 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up N clicks)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0x80 and 01 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up N+ clicks)
Prompt 0X3D Receive ID 0xC0 and 01 00 82 80 00 00 00 (up N++ clicks)


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The TesLorean - Brusa NLG513 Charger

I got the Brusa NLG513 charger setup and running (but funky window size problem).

IF ANYONE HAS... a charge profile for a 2014 Chevy Spark A123 battery pack, I'd be very interested!!!

Good info in the YouTube video from Damien Maguire on Brusa connection (note: Pin 15 is ground for the RS232 on the AMPseal connector)

I did run into the Windows not releasing the COM1 port properly (or ChargeStar not recognizing correctly that it was released). To get it 'Released' the first time - I used Windows Hyperterminal and connected to COM1 and then exited so that COM1 was released on exit. ChargeStar doesn't release COM1 (correctly - or windows ignores it), so you need to open-close-open ChargeStar when you next want to connect.

I did not have to hook the charger up to Mains power (120-240 volts) to get the charger to respond to RS232. I just applied the GND on pin 1 and +12v on Pins 2 and 3. Pin 3 is PON (power on) which the manual says can be used for programming if the mains is not connected.

When I read from or write to the Brusa, once the operation is completed the application window resizes (to about 1/2 height). Nothing I did could get it to resize - which is necessary to see the input/output data at the bottom half of the app. I think I can work around it by loading/saving profiles between reading/writing to the Brusa.



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A123 Battery Pack from 2014 Chevy Spark

Starting the teardown of the 2014 Chevy Spark A123 Battery Pack.

Some features...
- Pack composed of 4 modules, two in front of the rear axle and two behind. Battery box tunnel straddles the rear axle.
- Coolant plate under the front two modules and another under the rear two modules.
- Temp sensors on the coolant lines and what may be a small heater
- Contactors in the neck
- BMS modules appear to be on either end of the battery modules.


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2014 Chevy Spark Module Voltages

There are four identical A123 battery modules in the 2014 Chevy Spark EV. I measured the voltage on each module and got 92.4 - exactly the nominal module voltage, for a pack voltage of 370v.

The TesLorean - Battery Pack Control

I recently completed a test to control the contactors in the A123 battery pack from a 2014 Chevy Spark.

[Caution: Please do not work with high voltage batteries without sufficient knowledge, precautions, safety protection and equipment. In this demo the pack is closed but HV is still present external to the pack. This can be very dangerous.]

demo here

The Spark has four connectors (technically 5 including a body ground connection). Two are HV (drive unit - large, charger - small) and two are LV (contactors control, data links).

X358 (LV connector found in the neck)
1 BLK High voltage interlock loop low reference
2 VIO High voltage interlock loop signal
5 BLK Body Ground - Relay pin 6 (or 2) on all Contractors
Note: Means that all Relay pins are 12v to activate contactors
7 VIO/GRY EV PCM Batt (-) relay to battery negative contactor
8 GRY/BLU EV PCM Batt (+) relay to multifunction Contactor
9 WHT/BRN EV PCM to Pre-Charge Contactor
10 BRN/GRN EV PCM Batt 1 (+) relay to battery positive contactor
11 WHT/BRN EV PCM Batt (-) relay to batt Charging Sys Neg Contactor
12 YEL/VIO EV PCM Batt (+) relay to battery Charging Sys Pos Contactor
14 VIO Auxiliary heater control
Note: May switch on the auxiliary coolant heater

I wanted to be able to use the OEM contactors in the pack to connect the battery to the charger. The 'neck' of the battery pack contains a pre-charger circuit and contactors for both the battery to driveline connection, and for battery to charger. Connector X358 has lines that set the appropriate contactors.

To connect the battery to the charger HV connection I did the following...

Sequence 1
X358-1 to Ground (pack ground)
X358-2 to 12v (pack 12v)
X358-5 to Ground (acts as the ground for all the contactors in the neck)

Sequence 2
X358-9 to 12v (pre-charge contactor)
X358-11 to 12v (charger negative contactor)
X358-8 to 12v (multifunction contactor)
X358-12 to 12v (charger positive contactor)
X358-9 to Open (pre-charge contactor)

Sequence 3
X358-12 to Open (charger positive contactor)
X358-8 to Open (multifunction contactor)
X358-11 to Open (charger negative contactor)

Sequence 4
X358-5 to Open (contactors' ground)
X358-2 to Open (12v to pack)
X358-1 to Open (ground for pack)

This will make the connection from the Battery Pack to the Charger, another set of contactors (not using the pre-charger circuit) enables the battery connection to the drive unit (power distribution) using pins 7 and 10 listed above.

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Very cool project! I'm looking forward to seeing what you'll do with the battery pack. I love the idea of splitting it between front and rear to improve weight distribution, but it seems to me that this could considerably complicate the design in certain aspects.
I will be splitting the battery pack into two parts (which it essentially already is), but they will both continue to sit at the rear of the DeLorean - one half in front of the rear axle and the other half behind the rear axle. Splitting the pack is just to accommodate the available space in the DeLorean engine bay.

In the Chevy Spark 2 (of 4) modules sit in front of the rear axle, and 2 (of 4) modules sit behind the rear axle. Between the two halves are...

a) coolant flow lines
b) HV lines
c) BMS lines (rear submodules to the front master module)

In the DeLorean the two halves will be about 2 ft further apart than they are in the Chevy Spark. I will be keeping the two halves/frame/case intact and just running longer coolant, HV, and BMS lines between the two modules. I've almost reverse engineered enough about the packs operation that my plan is to use it in OEM mode, i.e. leave it 'functionally intact'.

The coolant pumps out of the Tesla (2015 Model S 70D) are VariMax Intercooler Pumps. Listed for "C4 Corvette 1985-1996" by Lingenfelter Engineering.

They have four control lines...
+12v and GND, PWM and Signal.
PWM is a 5v, 2Hz signal (2 cycles per second)
(switching on for 0.25 secs, and off for 0.25 secs will set speed to 50%)
Signal is PWM-like and indicates the pump speed. **I controlled it with a simple 5v digital pin on an Arduino.

"- Target flow rate 720 LPH @ 70 kPa
- Inlet / Outlet connection: 19 MM Barb
- Motor syle: Brushless
- Operating voltage: 8-16 VDC
- Maximum amp draw: 7.3 Amp with RSDS Software"

It has soft start which means that on applying 12v or adjusting the PWM signal it slowly speeds up or slows down as necessary.

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The Tesla has a number of coolant diverter valves, one of which is 4 way : TMN 6007370-00-B (two ins, switched between two outs), and others are 3 way : TMN 6007384-00-B (one in, switching between two outs).

The 4-port valve is used to connect the coolant flow into 1 continuous large loop or separate it into 2 smaller loops. Useful for heating/cooling just the battery unit - distinct from whatever the temp of the driveunit. The 3-oprt is used to bypass the radiator and another to bypass the coolant chiller.

The valves are listed as PWM controlled, but this is not correct. There are four wires, +12v and Gnd, Signal and Control. Rather than being PWM, Control should switch between Ground and +12v to switch flow from one outlet to the other (for both the 3 and 4 port valves). Signal indicates value position - but need not be connected for valve control purposes.

TMN 6007384-00-B
Electrical Actuated 3/4" 3-port
TMN G9361-0R010

TMN 6007370-00-B
Electrical actuated 3/4" 4-port
Invensys 15B16
Motor actuator (12v)
127-00033-001 (90)
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Tesla Small Motor (rear) Dimensions

(Someone contacted me "Nick D" but I didn't catch the return email address in the request [website glitch] - so I'm hoping he subscribed to this thread.)

Insofar as I can tell the small rear and front motors are very similar in size. Based on visual inspection, the front motor differs slightly in the casing (mostly around the final drive casing). The front motor also has a mount for a lay (intermediate) shaft.

Measurements were taken with a measuring tape, and thus are inaccurate (vs with a giant caliper).

Front to Rear (incl mounts) 24.5in
Width (motor edge to inverter edge) 24in
Note: inverter needs additional space to the side (~2in) for power lines in and coolant connections
Width mount (mount located on the side of the motor) adds 4in
Weight ~200lbs
Motor & Inverter diameter ~11in
"Transmission" is ~15 in at widest.

Orientation of the motor must remain as in original Tesla (i.e. front to rear direction), reportedly to maintain oil pump and flow in the transmission. Rear motor leads (to front) with the transmission, front drive unit leads (to front) with the motor/inverter.

PS. I have tried (bought and now stored for posterity in my garage) multiple non-Tesla OEM axles with a 29 spline connection to the drive unit. Unfortunately the aftermarket axle companies give insufficient information about the other critical dimensions. Based on my research (including bought axles) I have found none that fit the Tesla drive unit. It appears (but non-exhaustive testing) that all the Tesla axles (large and small motors) use the same inner CV joint dimensions.
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I've been doing some work on the Tesla DCDC Converter (from a 2015 70D).

The board is made by Delta, who make all manner of power electronics including motors for EVs. Interestingly the board did not include a Tesla part number or logo, like I've found on other 3rd party components that Tesla must have had a hand in designing.

Interestingly I was not able to locate an ASIC or CANbus chip? I might be located on the opposite side of the board. There are 4 HVIL connections, 2 through the low voltage connector and 2 through the high voltage connector. The HVIL pins in the connector are just a loop inside the connector to make sure that it (the connector) is in place.

Here are some of the CHIP identifiers (so far as I could read) and my guesses at their purpose...

1) 24 pin IC located centrally : UCC28950Q Texas Instr 45TG? C05Q
- phase shift controller

2) IC13 : K44T 441 FR and IC15 : K437 444 QG
- opto couplers

3) IC221 : 158Y EZ439
- voltage regulator

4) IC305 : 0143 28T 52510S?
- digitial analog converter

5) L301 : B82793 S513 N EPCOS 4381
- signal line filter

As yet I haven't been able to get any CAN out of the unit. But I haven't hooked up a HV source yet. I need to keep messing with the HVIL signals to see if I can get them set up as per an installed unit.

There's a chance it looks for CANbus frames related to HVIL, battery status, or other components. I've got some Tesla CAN logs, but nothing from a 70D. If you've got a 70D log, I'd be very interested in getting use of it.



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Now that I have a design for the battery pack location in the DeLorean, I was able to find the final position for the motor. Previously the motor sat further forward (in the space once occupied by the transmission) and tipped nose down about 40 degrees. Now the motor will sit over the engine cradle with the transmission tipped nose down about 25 degrees. This lessens the angle on the half-shafts.

The motor mount at the side of the motor was removed and put back to avoid obstruction. It will still be used, but a bracket will attached to the side of the motor to allow the rubber mount to move to a less awkward position.

The half shafts are 22in and 25in, so closer in length than previously, also removing the potential for a lay shaft.

This creates some space in front of the motor which might accommodate a pump or other non-HV unit.

The Chevy Spark EV battery pack will be split into 3 parts, front 2 modules, rear 2 modules, and controller neck. I'll be using the existing shell (carbon fiber) and supports, with modifications to maintain the waterproofing after splitting. The two front modules will sit behind the rear axle where oil pan and exhaust used to be. The rear two modules will sit directly above the engine cradle and motor, in the location previously occupied by the intake manifold. The weight won't be quite as low or as central as I'd like, but it won't be all that far from the original DeLorean weight distribution. I'm putting misc electronics and HV (ac compressor, dcdc, heater, chiller, etc.) in the prior fuel tank area.


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Mounts for the Tesla drive unit (motor, inverter, transmission) completed (although not painted yet). The welding is ugly but functional.

I used the existing engine and transmission mounting points for the new front and rear brackets. The Tesla motor has rubber mounting bushings built-in front and rear. I attached the Tesla side mount to the DeLorean frame and made a bracket to adapt the drive unit mount points to the new side mount location.

The drive unit sits more to the left than right for two reasons, 1) the high voltage (400v) DC power cables enter at the bottom right (just forward of the existing RHS motor mount), and 2) to shift the differential as close to center as possible. In the Tesla the rear motor is positioned to the left hand side to leave the differential equidistant from the wheels (in the front-wheel drive Tesla's they use a lay shaft). With the DeLorean engine cradle, the half-axles will be 1-2 inches longer on the LHS than the RHS.

The Tesla motor can produce 250 ftlb at 0 RPM, so the drive unit will be pulling up on the front mount and pushing down on the rear mount. The side mount is principally for stability.

The drive unit is tipped down about 20 degrees (from the level mount found in the Tesla). This is well within the 45 degree limit for the oil pickup. The position was selected to provide clearance for the half-shafts.

Next up axle measurements. Custom axles are needed to accommodate Tesla differential inner CV and DeLorean rear hub outer CV connections.



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Time to start to document the build and figure out the fine details of how all these Tesla and other bits are going to fit into the car and where.

Obviously the DriveUnit has been mounted, and I've planned out the battery modules carefully. But, it seems like there are 50 other units that need to fit into the vary small spaces afforded by the DeLorean.

The trunk area (where the engine used to be) will actually have a trunk area, probably big enough for one suitcase (larger than the standard front trunk area). I lose the frunk (front trunk) to batteries, charger, battery control, etc.

The old gas tank area will be jammed with miscellaneous valves, pumps, ac compressor, junction boxes etc.

Next up is to plan the routing of the high voltage lines, coolant lines, control lines (12v and CAN), refrigerant lines. And then, to decommission all the unused wiring loom (of which there is a lot!) and add in new circuits for power supply.

The attached PDF document captures some of the layers of system design for the conversion. Any and all comments on the design are welcome. Still lots of work to do...


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iBooster dimensions...

I've noticed that the shape (dimensions) of the brake fluid tank differs between iBooster pictures (on the web). I assume they are shaped specifically to the car. The dimensions listed in the picture are for an iBooster from a 2015 Model S 70D. The two measurements (on the same axis) are to/from where the iBooster meets the firewall. My tank looks longer that the one shown in the picture.

I'm leaving the iBooster unchanged (same ECU attached to it). It appears to provide 'default' braking assistance when powered up and even if CAN is missing. This makes sense as a fail safe mode. You wouldn't want to loose brake assistance because the CAN frames dropped. I have found nothing, zero, nada on the web about the CAN traffic that the iBooster looks for. Intelligent control at this stage is not possible.

The iBooster has two separate CAN links (two pairs). One pair is connected to the IVD Sensor (Yaw/Roll/Acceleration). The accelerometer (IVD) is a Bosch module positioned in the middle of the Model S floorpan. It measures about 1in square. It is only connected to the Stability Control module and the iBooster. The other CAN pair goes to one of the general vehicle CAN networks.

When the IVD is provided with 12v & GND it immediately starts producing CAN frames. I captured and decoded these more than a year ago. They report rotation around 3 axis (XYZ) and acceleration/deceleration. It is probably only connected to Stability Control and the iBooster because of the frequency of frames it produces and the importance of getting messages to these systems without interference.

I will be connecting the IVD up to the iBooster to see if it modifies it's performance. It will be interesting to see if the fail safe mode differs between seeing the IVD and not the Vehicle CAN, and no CAN at all.


Wow, very impressive!
After reading through your entire topic again I am also interested in using such an iBooster. Skipping a noisy vacuum pump and external brake servo sounds very interesting.
I saw you have a "Bosch Accelero meter" hooked up via CAN to the booster. What exactly will that do? I assume you won't be using the ECU that used to be connected to the booster.

I'll send you a message to ask some more questions that might be too much off topic.
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Im enjoying your build.
I bought an iBooster from a 2014 Tesla Model S because of your thread on them. Looking for info has been tough. I even rang Tesla who wouldnt give me anything. I emailed Bosch and they said they dont have the details, Tesla does. I was looking for the Bore dimensions when workiing out what to do with the brake calipers. Its one inch by the way. I had to get a special socket and take it apart, very nerve racking, i hoped it would go back together without new seals.
I dont have the IVD though so will be curious about the outcome. I have an arduino and CAN shield and have this week begun to learn about programming them. I wonder if there is a way to check the ibooster to see what CAN messages it wants. When i get better at it (probably not in the next 6 months) i'll plus it in and have a crack.

Keep up the great work, like you i have some tesla modules to put around the car and will be stuffing some of the smaller bits in the holes left over by the ICE stuff. I hope to keep the weight distribution the same or more balanced.

The challenge with figuring out what CAN frames the iBooster pays attention to, comes from the nature of the CAN protocol. Many modules on a CAN network send out frames... Broadcasting, but these frames are not addressed, that is... There is no way to know which other modules are listening.

So figuring it out means, capturing CAN traffic, playing it back to the network, and by exclusion of frames trying to figure out which combination of frames are necessary for a module to work correctly. This quickly becomes a combinatorics problem as there are hundreds of frames IDs and millions of combinations, and with a module like the I booster it's difficult to test when it's working or not.

It is likely that Bosch makes the iBooster so that the Tesla or other company can redefine what frames IDs are used... To avoid ID conflicts with other modules. Bosch probably know what the default frame IDs are, but Tesla most likey will have changed these. If the Bosch firmware is flexible they probably also allow the structure of the frames to be modified (number of data bytes etc).

The next best bet is to replace the control board in the iBooster so as to define the control protocol. This however is a very skilled task and not one to be taken lightly given the importance of brakes.

Failing all else, operation in fail safe mode is not a bad option, although lots of testing is required to understand how the iBooster will operate over many conditions. It will likely still assume it's in a Tesla 6000lb vehicle.

I haven't connected up CAN to the non-IVD output, but that would be an interesting test to see if the iBooster broadcasts any interesting information.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
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How heavy is your car?
In the old days we didn't have brake boosters - and with an unique build like yours you could use two master cylinders and a balance bar to get optimum braking for your weight distribution

My car is 900 Kg with me in it - the brakes do feel a bit heavy at first but you get used to it very fast and I have more than enough braking power without any boost at all
The Delorean is about 2800lbs. The Teslorean should be roughly the same, maybe 200lbs heavier when done.

I've limited space near the brake booster sure to the addition of electric power steering, so the iBooster offers the option of small size and no vacuum required.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
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