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The TesLorean

104328 Views 124 Replies 37 Participants Last post by  266917
Introducing the TesLorean

TesLorean = Delorean & Tesla

Four years ago this week I got my Delorean with the plan to convert it to electric drive. I wanted to do a conversion project and coming from N. Ireland (now living in Texas) I have a connection with and love for The DeLorean DMC-12.

The plan is to fit the rear motor from a Tesla 70D and replace the DeLorean's V6 PRV engine (105hp at the wheels) and stock transmission.

Lots and lots of engineering, design, programming, and swearing to come.



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Ran some CAN tests on the iBooster tonight...

It doesn't appear to produce any CAN frames at all, either on the YAW lines, or on the Vehicle CAN lines. It may be a device that only provides data on request (waits for a prompting frame), or perhaps only when certain conditions arise.

I also hooked up the YAW sensor's CAN to the CAN inputs on the iBooster (as configured in the car), but the iBooster still did not produce any CAN. Hard to say for sure, but it felt like the brake pedal stroke was smoother when the YAW sensor was attached (or it could be wishful thinking).

I've been working on the Instrument Cluster recently. I had planned to keep the stock DeLorean instrument cluster and figure out how to drive the gauges to display EV information. The challenges were non trivial and beyond my capacity to develop robust circuits that could handle the digital to 12v analog jump (like driving the tach meter with frequent 40v spikes).

As luck would have it, Rodolfo/81DMC on the forum, posted his custom instrument gauge. He had a new gauge printed up by Black Cat Custom Automotive. He did have to develop the graphics file (in Adobe Illustrator). Since his car is ICE, he used new digital(ish) gauges to replace the originals.

I was able to start with Rodolfo's file and repurpose the dash configuration to be suitable for EV information. Here's the design...

I'm using OEM GM stepper motors for the gauges, with stepper motor drivers from adafruit.

The warning icons are...
(4 designs by my brother-in-law)
Left : Seatbelt, Door Ajar
Right : Steering EPS fault, Traction battery low, Tesla Drive unit error, Traction pack error, brake.

I used Inkscape (free) to edit the Adobe Illustrator file. Still some editing to do to get the warning icons positioned mm perfect and to check the likely temp ranges once the car is functional.

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Big milestone today... half axles installed connecting the Tesla small motor drive unit to the DeLorean rear hub/wheels.

Adapters to the Tesla differential were machined from Tesla S/X axles. The axles were made by TheDriveShaftShop and are good for 800hp. The axles mirror the original DeLorean setup (although the lengths are different).

Looking from above the DeLorean rear engine bay at the Tesla small rear motor, the adpaters, CV joints, and axles.

Looking down the trailing arm at the rear right wheel. Axle, CV joint, and tone ring fitted.


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What are the numbers on your Tesla AC compressors? In another topic I've read that you own two different ones.

As far as I understand there are three different types.
Tesla 6007380-**-* is a Denso ES34C and I'm expecting this is the one that is PWM controlled. Used in 2013 and 2014

Later types are the HVCC ESC33N (Tesla part 1028398-**-*) and the Hanon HES33 (Tesla part 1063369-**-*) and I expect these are CAN controlled.

However looking at your third photo in post #15 I'd say it's a HVCC ESC33N which you indicated as non-CAN controlled.
ES34C Japan
PWM Controlled
from 2014 Model S

ESC33N Korea
CAN controlled
from 2015 70D

Any idea what the PWM specs of the ES34C look like? I can't find much of anything on the interwebs about it.
Once more your topic is very valuable for me, thanks for sharing all this info.
I do have a question on the coolant diverter valves.
I intend to use two of them in my project.
The 4-port to be able to join or separate the controller+DC/DC and battery loops to be able to heat the batteries while driving using waste heat from the controller.
The 3-port I want to use to bypass the battery loop radiator and in that bypass add the battery heater.
Now my question is about the following:

Which wire is which pin?
My 4-port valve has four pins labeled C A / D F

My 3-port does not have these letters, but the print looks the same.
Hope you can help me out. I don’t want to put 12V on the wrong pin and fry it.

And do you already have a plan for the connector? It’s missing and I cannot find any info on the web.
I was thinking about having something 3D printed.

Thanks in advance!
My 4-port doesn't have letters, but the wire colors associated with each pin are...

Part Number 6007370-00-B
C = Black
D = White Green
A = Red Gold (or Brown)
F = White Blue
Invensys 15B16 Motor Actuator (12v) 127-00033-001(90) Made in Korea

My 3-port also doesn't have letters, but following the same pattern as in your picture...

Part Number 6007384-00-B
C = Black
D = Brown Green
A = Red Gold
F = White Violet (or Purple)
TMN G9361-0R010



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Is my following assumption/conclusion then correct?
C = ground
A = 12V +

Thanks for including a photo of the connectors now I know what I’m after. Hope that I can find them in the end.
In all cases of valves C is ground and A is Pwr (valves say 12v) on the side.

I think the valve electrical connector is a Delphi 12052848.

Radiator Bypass Valve
3 Way Valve
A = RD-WH ; VS+ ; Pwr
D = TN-BK ; PosIn ; PWM
F = TN-DB ; FB ; Pos
C = BK ; VS- ; Gnd

Chiller Bypass Valve
3 Way Valve
A = RD-YE ; VS+ ; Pwr
D = TN-DG ; PosIn ; PWM
F = WH-BN ; FB ; Pos
C = BK ; VS- ; Gnd

Four Way Valve
A = RD-GY ; VS+ ; Pwr
D = WH-DG ; PosIn ; PWM
F = WH-DB ; FB ; Pos
C = BK ; VS- ; Gnd

Coolant Pump 2
1 = OG-YE ; Batt ; 15A
3 = GY-BN ; PWM
4 = GY-RD ; FB
2 = BK ; Gnd

Coolant Pump 1
1 = OG-BN ; Batt
3 = GY-WH ; PWM
4 = GY-PK ; FB
2 = BK ; Gnd

Coolant Pump 3
1 = OG-RD ; Batt
3 = GY-DG ; PWM
4 = GY-DB ; FB
2 = BK ; Gnd
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Once more I am triggered to also start using the iBooster. Still do want to get rid of the vacuum pump and in particular the noise.
Sorry to ask again, but can you please take the measurements from the iBooster for me?...

I think I've got what you need. Unfortunately I'm jetting off to Australia today so I'll just attach what I've got (a bunch of photos and a png)...



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Yes! Thanks you very much. This is exactly what I was looking for (and even more!).
Distance from center to non ECU side is 2 1/4 inch which is 5,7 cm and I have 6,5 to 7 cm available. Should work out!
I'll check the other measurements and fitment and then will go searching to but one.
FYI (don't know whether it's relevant for you), but o.a. Honda also uses it and they have a remote reservoir fitted.
and you can even buy new ones, both the iBooster and the master cylinder + reservoirs (don't know anything about the shop though), but quite some money.
And you probably already know this but a fellow Delorean driver already installed one in his car
Thanks for taking the time to reply and safe travels to Australia, have fun!
Thanks for the Honda details. A remote reservoir would be great for me. The reservoir in my case sticks up into the floor of the DeLorean's frunk. Since that's where I've got the charger, HVJB, etc. I was thinking of remaking the bracket that holds the iBooster in place. It was sized to hold the stock brake booster, which needed to get out of the way of the hydraulic clutch master.

Do you have the specs for the compressor (psi, power and etc)? Have you managed to test the PWM function to check if it works?
I haven't messed with the AC system yet. I got a 2014 compressor which is controlled via PWM. No specs or hacking data as yet.

I got the PowerKey 2300 SI running. Just a little hiccup with the default CAN baud rate (mine was 250KBPS, not 125KPBS as in the documentation). The panel will sit slightly forward of where the gearshift was. I'm still debating whether I should put a cup holder where the gear shift has been removed. A DeLorean with a sensible cup holder location may just be a step too far for the purists :)

I bought mine directly from Blink Marine.

Unit is very solid and has great key action. You can select the key symbol inserts from 200+ available (very easy to change). The pic shows some of the button light colors possible, essentially combinations of RGB, shown here at 100% brightness.

My car will have D-drive, R-reverse, (P) - park, Charge, Up, and Down. I haven't landed exactly on the purpose of Up/Down yet but it could be a regen level adjuster OR air suspension... TBD :)

I landed on using a button panel like this after using a similar arrangement in the FIAT 500e. In the TesLorean, the button will only indicate selected once the trip computer has confirmation back from the HSR motor control module that the motor is in the selected mode.

There is backlighting and the button LEDs can be made to blink.

I'll need to work on the color scheme and what information I need the buttons to convey as the car is being operated/charged. It will be something more subtle that the Christmas tree shown in the photo.

No N neutral required - (P) is sufficient. The TesLorean will rely on the manual hand brake to stop the car rolling. The trip computer will monitor the manual handbrake and flash warning lights until it is engaged.


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I really wanted to use the push button setup you have. So modern and techy. I couldnt go passed the original gear selector though. Keep the updates.

Tell us about that magic circuit board in that pic, what is it, a HSR thing?
The circuits are a Ruggiduino Mega mounted to a CZH-Labs D-1000 (just makes all the pins into screw terminals), and a MCP2515_CAN breakout board. The TesLorean will have multiple CAN networks - mostly to separate data traffic and segregate critical drive / battery data from less critical data like AC/instrument cluster, etc.

The HSR controller is made by HSR Motors ( They create modules that instruct the paired Tesla small and large drive units to function. The HSR module requires gear selection information (which it can get via CAN or a dedicated switch panel). I played with using a stock gear selector for ages, but feedback and overriding control were issues. For example you could put the automatic stick in D, but that doesn't mean that the controllers have confirmed that your in Drive. The button panel and lights allow for button press detection, the controllers to handshake, and the LED lights to be set to indicate compliance. Modern gear selectors (even the dial type) have a set of motors and solenoids to prevent inappropriate gear selection.

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Dr Jeff
Firstly lovely build.
I've been keen to use the Chrysler 200 rotary gear selector for my direct drive build using a UQM motor. have you looked/consider at this as an option? any thoughts / comments ?
Hi Steve,

I did actually try to get some control out of a rotary gear selector from a Chrysler, I wasn't successful, but I think the unit was also damaged.

Hi John,

The 4-way Tesla valve is essentially the same. Let me try in text to outline how the 4 way works...

Inputs are A and B
Outputs are C and D

Mode 1 = A->C & B->D (then C->A and D->B)
Mode 2 = A->D & B->C (then C->A and D->B)

So in mode 1, there are two separate loops of coolant - what I call in my design the inner and outer loops. The Drive Unit is on one loop and the Battery is on another. I suspect this design is because there are occasions when the thermal needs of the drive unit and battery differ.

In mode 2, the two loops become 1, so all the coolant has access to the radiator, the chiller, the heater, etc.

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Trip Computer design is finished and ready to go in the car. The Trip Computer is the master controller in the TesLorean as it controls the primary source of input from the driver (apart from the steering and accelerator) and issues commands to the thermal controller, charger, battery control, instrument cluster, drive unit...

YouTube Trip Computer

Recent work on the TesLorean has all been on controller programming (too darn hot to be in the garage).

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