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The axles were made by TheDriveShaftShop and are good for 800hp.
That's a strange way to express the capacity of an axle, but I can see why they do it. It should be a maximum torque, but most people won't take the few seconds to calculate their maximum torque to the wheel, so they roughly approximate it to an engine power, which assumes both a tire diameter and a road speed.
 

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That's a strange way to express the capacity of an axle, but I can see why they do it. It should be a maximum torque, but most people won't take the few seconds to calculate their maximum torque to the wheel, so they roughly approximate it to an engine power, which assumes both a tire diameter and a road speed.
Thank you Brian, that was bothering me as well. I doubt they could handle 800 HP at .5 RPM for instance!
 

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Thank you Brian, that was bothering me as well. I doubt they could handle 800 HP at .5 RPM for instance!
Exactly! :)

At 0.5 RPM, 800 hp would be 8.4 million lb-ft of torque :eek:

More likely, they're thinking that an engine that puts out 800 hp at 7000 to 8000 rpm might put out up to 700 lb-ft of torque at 5000 rpm. Multiply that by a first gear ratio (of about 3:1) and final drive ratio (of about 3:1) and you have around 7000 lb-ft of torque to the rear wheels (or 3500 lb-ft per axle shaft)... at about 50 rpm. That's probably fine for a Tesla motor; overall gearing of the Tesla and the conventional car in first gear are similar, and Tesla motor output torque (especially for the small motor) is less than 700 lb-ft.
 

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Figuring out the Tesla AC Compressor - Physical Wiring

The unit has six wires, two are high voltage power (encased in orange). There are four additional wires that run directly to the AC motor control.

In the harness these are colored... Black, Red, White-Red, and White-Brown.

These go through a connector and then route into the motor control on wires colored... Black, Blue, Green, and Red.

None of the wire pairs are twisted - so no CAN control.

Photo shows the bracket and three isolation mounts. The unit has noise reduction covering - think foam. The high pressure connection is already removed.
What are the numbers on your Tesla AC compressors? In another topic I've read that you own two different ones.

As far as I understand there are three different types.
Tesla 6007380-**-* is a Denso ES34C and I'm expecting this is the one that is PWM controlled. Used in 2013 and 2014

Later types are the HVCC ESC33N (Tesla part 1028398-**-*) and the Hanon HES33 (Tesla part 1063369-**-*) and I expect these are CAN controlled.

However looking at your third photo in post #15 I'd say it's a HVCC ESC33N which you indicated as non-CAN controlled.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
What are the numbers on your Tesla AC compressors? In another topic I've read that you own two different ones.

As far as I understand there are three different types.
Tesla 6007380-**-* is a Denso ES34C and I'm expecting this is the one that is PWM controlled. Used in 2013 and 2014

Later types are the HVCC ESC33N (Tesla part 1028398-**-*) and the Hanon HES33 (Tesla part 1063369-**-*) and I expect these are CAN controlled.

However looking at your third photo in post #15 I'd say it's a HVCC ESC33N which you indicated as non-CAN controlled.
ES34C Japan
6007380-00-C
PWM Controlled
from 2014 Model S

ESC33N Korea
CAN controlled
1028398-00-E
from 2015 70D

Any idea what the PWM specs of the ES34C look like? I can't find much of anything on the interwebs about it.
 

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Any idea what the PWM specs of the ES34C look like? I can't find much of anything on the interwebs about it.
Thanks! Yes, that does confirm my expectations.
Have been searching extensively. But even while knowing that the PWM controlled pump is actually a Denso part was not of much use. Did not find any specs unfortunatelty.

Therefore I am now leaning towards using a AC compressor with a known control scheme, the Benling DM27A1 as also sold by EVTV.
 

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Once more your topic is very valuable for me, thanks for sharing all this info.
I do have a question on the coolant diverter valves.
I intend to use two of them in my project.
The 4-port to be able to join or separate the controller+DC/DC and battery loops to be able to heat the batteries while driving using waste heat from the controller.
The 3-port I want to use to bypass the battery loop radiator and in that bypass add the battery heater.
Now my question is about the following:
The valves are listed as PWM controlled, but this is not correct. There are four wires, +12v and Gnd, Signal and Control. Rather than being PWM, Control should switch between Ground and +12v to switch flow from one outlet to the other (for both the 3 and 4 port valves). Signal indicates value position - but need not be connected for valve control purposes.
Which wire is which pin?
My 4-port valve has four pins labeled C A / D F

My 3-port does not have these letters, but the print looks the same.
Hope you can help me out. I don’t want to put 12V on the wrong pin and fry it.

And do you already have a plan for the connector? It’s missing and I cannot find any info on the web.
I was thinking about having something 3D printed.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
Once more your topic is very valuable for me, thanks for sharing all this info.
I do have a question on the coolant diverter valves.
I intend to use two of them in my project.
The 4-port to be able to join or separate the controller+DC/DC and battery loops to be able to heat the batteries while driving using waste heat from the controller.
The 3-port I want to use to bypass the battery loop radiator and in that bypass add the battery heater.
Now my question is about the following:


Which wire is which pin?
My 4-port valve has four pins labeled C A / D F

My 3-port does not have these letters, but the print looks the same.
Hope you can help me out. I don’t want to put 12V on the wrong pin and fry it.

And do you already have a plan for the connector? It’s missing and I cannot find any info on the web.
I was thinking about having something 3D printed.

Thanks in advance!
My 4-port doesn't have letters, but the wire colors associated with each pin are...

Part Number 6007370-00-B
C = Black
D = White Green
A = Red Gold (or Brown)
F = White Blue
Invensys 15B16 Motor Actuator (12v) 127-00033-001(90) Made in Korea

My 3-port also doesn't have letters, but following the same pattern as in your picture...

Part Number 6007384-00-B
C = Black
D = Brown Green
A = Red Gold
F = White Violet (or Purple)
TMN G9361-0R010

Jeff
 

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My 4-port doesn't have letters, but the wire colors associated with each pin are...



Part Number 6007370-00-B

C = Black

D = White Green

A = Red Gold (or Brown)

F = White Blue

Invensys 15B16 Motor Actuator (12v) 127-00033-001(90) Made in Korea



My 3-port also doesn't have letters, but following the same pattern as in your picture...



Part Number 6007384-00-B

C = Black

D = Brown Green

A = Red Gold

F = White Violet (or Purple)

TMN G9361-0R010



Jeff
Thanks!
Is my following assumption/conclusion then correct?
C = ground
A = 12V +

Thanks for including a photo of the connectors now I know what I’m after. Hope that I can find them in the end.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Thanks!
Is my following assumption/conclusion then correct?
C = ground
A = 12V +

Thanks for including a photo of the connectors now I know what I’m after. Hope that I can find them in the end.
In all cases of valves C is ground and A is Pwr (valves say 12v) on the side.

I think the valve electrical connector is a Delphi 12052848.

Radiator Bypass Valve
3 Way Valve
A = RD-WH ; VS+ ; Pwr
D = TN-BK ; PosIn ; PWM
F = TN-DB ; FB ; Pos
C = BK ; VS- ; Gnd

Chiller Bypass Valve
3 Way Valve
A = RD-YE ; VS+ ; Pwr
D = TN-DG ; PosIn ; PWM
F = WH-BN ; FB ; Pos
C = BK ; VS- ; Gnd

Four Way Valve
A = RD-GY ; VS+ ; Pwr
D = WH-DG ; PosIn ; PWM
F = WH-DB ; FB ; Pos
C = BK ; VS- ; Gnd

Coolant Pump 2
1 = OG-YE ; Batt ; 15A
3 = GY-BN ; PWM
4 = GY-RD ; FB
2 = BK ; Gnd

Coolant Pump 1
1 = OG-BN ; Batt
3 = GY-WH ; PWM
4 = GY-PK ; FB
2 = BK ; Gnd

Coolant Pump 3
1 = OG-RD ; Batt
3 = GY-DG ; PWM
4 = GY-DB ; FB
2 = BK ; Gnd
 

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I think the valve electrical connector is a Delphi 12052848.
Brilliant, thanks! I've ordered some and will let report back if they indeed fit. Looks like the correct ones indeed.

Radiator Bypass Valve

3 Way Valve

A = RD-WH ; VS+ ; Pwr

D = TN-BK ; PosIn ; PWM

F = TN-DB ; FB ; Pos

C = BK ; VS- ; Gnd



Chiller Bypass Valve

3 Way Valve

A = RD-YE ; VS+ ; Pwr

D = TN-DG ; PosIn ; PWM

F = WH-BN ; FB ; Pos

C = BK ; VS- ; Gnd



Four Way Valve

A = RD-GY ; VS+ ; Pwr

D = WH-DG ; PosIn ; PWM

F = WH-DB ; FB ; Pos

C = BK ; VS- ; Gnd
I assume the 3-way valves are identical in terms of hardware, but I'll check.

Thanks for that information. I played around with them and found out the following.

IMG_0568.jpg
Update: after looking at the results of the 3-port I realised there was an error in the 4-port mapping. Updated the text below.

IMG_0569.jpg

So in words:

Nb. outlets numbered clockwise starting with 1 at 12 o'clock.

For the 4 way valve:

A = 12V+ and C = ground => mixing so connects 1+2+3+4

A = 12V and C + D = ground => turns clockwise to connect 1+3 and 2+4

A + D = 12V and C = ground => turns counter clockwise to connect 1+2 and 3+4



For the 3 way valve:

A = 12V+ and C = ground => mixing so connects 1+2+3

A = 12V and C + D = ground => connects 1+3

A + D = 12V and C = ground => connects 2+3



I have not yet looked into what happens to pin F, but it would be nice if it can confirm whether a certain and desired end position has been reached.

Will look into that.
 

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Figuring out the iBooster brake system
Once more I am triggered to also start using the iBooster. Still do want to get rid of the vacuum pump and in particular the noise.
Sorry to ask again, but can you please take the measurements from the iBooster for me? I know you did before but the answer is in the "blackout" period of the forum. Plus I need it a little more exact. Hope you can help me out.

It is going to be quite tight whether it will fit next to my battery box.
I've already seen that you can also use it upside down so with the ECU facing to the outside (left for RHD cars).
Can you please take measurements A,B,C,D in the below sketch for me?
IMG_1086.jpg
(Drawing is as seen from the inside of the car so from push-rod end).
Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Once more I am triggered to also start using the iBooster. Still do want to get rid of the vacuum pump and in particular the noise.
Sorry to ask again, but can you please take the measurements from the iBooster for me?...
Hiya,

I think I've got what you need. Unfortunately I'm jetting off to Australia today so I'll just attach what I've got (a bunch of photos and a png)...

Jeff
 

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I think I've got what you need.
Yes! Thanks you very much. This is exactly what I was looking for (and even more!).
Distance from center to non ECU side is 2 1/4 inch which is 5,7 cm and I have 6,5 to 7 cm available. Should work out!
I'll check the other measurements and fitment and then will go searching to but one.
FYI (don't know whether it's relevant for you), but o.a. Honda also uses it and they have a remote reservoir fitted. (
example on eBay)
and you can even buy new ones, both the iBooster and the master cylinder + reservoirs (don't know anything about the shop though), but quite some money.
And you probably already know this but a fellow Delorean driver already installed one in his car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQCT059Rckk
Thanks for taking the time to reply and safe travels to Australia, have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Yes! Thanks you very much. This is exactly what I was looking for (and even more!).
Distance from center to non ECU side is 2 1/4 inch which is 5,7 cm and I have 6,5 to 7 cm available. Should work out!
I'll check the other measurements and fitment and then will go searching to but one.
FYI (don't know whether it's relevant for you), but o.a. Honda also uses it and they have a remote reservoir fitted.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2017-Honda-CR-V-CRV-Booster-Brake-Booster-Master-Cylinder-OEM/222791081455
and you can even buy new ones, both the iBooster and the master cylinder + reservoirs https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2017-honda-cr-v-5dr-24lx-awd-e-liberty-ka-cvt/electric-brake-booster.html (don't know anything about the shop though), but quite some money.
And you probably already know this but a fellow Delorean driver already installed one in his car
Thanks for taking the time to reply and safe travels to Australia, have fun!
Thanks for the Honda details. A remote reservoir would be great for me. The reservoir in my case sticks up into the floor of the DeLorean's frunk. Since that's where I've got the charger, HVJB, etc. I was thinking of remaking the bracket that holds the iBooster in place. It was sized to hold the stock brake booster, which needed to get out of the way of the hydraulic clutch master.

Jeff
 

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ES34C Japan
6007380-00-C
PWM Controlled
from 2014 Model S

ESC33N Korea
CAN controlled
1028398-00-E
from 2015 70D

Any idea what the PWM specs of the ES34C look like? I can't find much of anything on the interwebs about it.
Hi Dr. Jeff,

Great to see the Teslorean project. Looks really nice.

I'am thinking about using the tesla AC compressor as well, looking for the PWM version. Problem is my voltage is 111V, so I would need to rewind and change the motor a bit.

Do you have the specs for the compressor (psi, power and etc)? Have you managed to test the PWM function to check if it works?

Thanks!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Do you have the specs for the compressor (psi, power and etc)? Have you managed to test the PWM function to check if it works?
I haven't messed with the AC system yet. I got a 2014 compressor which is controlled via PWM. No specs or hacking data as yet.

Jeff
 

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Hi Jeff,

Cool looking project, and very impressive progress.

I spent the last number of years working with iBoosters for some european OEMs - I can probably offer you some insights. PM me, and we can discuss.

Good luck with rest of the build.

Deaglan.
 
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