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Discussion Starter #101
I got the PowerKey 2300 SI running. Just a little hiccup with the default CAN baud rate (mine was 250KBPS, not 125KPBS as in the documentation). The panel will sit slightly forward of where the gearshift was. I'm still debating whether I should put a cup holder where the gear shift has been removed. A DeLorean with a sensible cup holder location may just be a step too far for the purists :)

I bought mine directly from Blink Marine.

Unit is very solid and has great key action. You can select the key symbol inserts from 200+ available (very easy to change). The pic shows some of the button light colors possible, essentially combinations of RGB, shown here at 100% brightness.

My car will have D-drive, R-reverse, (P) - park, Charge, Up, and Down. I haven't landed exactly on the purpose of Up/Down yet but it could be a regen level adjuster OR air suspension... TBD :)

I landed on using a button panel like this after using a similar arrangement in the FIAT 500e. In the TesLorean, the button will only indicate selected once the trip computer has confirmation back from the HSR motor control module that the motor is in the selected mode.

There is backlighting and the button LEDs can be made to blink.

I'll need to work on the color scheme and what information I need the buttons to convey as the car is being operated/charged. It will be something more subtle that the Christmas tree shown in the photo.

No N neutral required - (P) is sufficient. The TesLorean will rely on the manual hand brake to stop the car rolling. The trip computer will monitor the manual handbrake and flash warning lights until it is engaged.
 

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I really wanted to use the push button setup you have. So modern and techy. I couldnt go passed the original gear selector though. Keep the updates.

Tell us about that magic circuit board in that pic, what is it, a HSR thing?
 

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Discussion Starter #103
I really wanted to use the push button setup you have. So modern and techy. I couldnt go passed the original gear selector though. Keep the updates.

Tell us about that magic circuit board in that pic, what is it, a HSR thing?
The circuits are a Ruggiduino Mega mounted to a CZH-Labs D-1000 (just makes all the pins into screw terminals), and a MCP2515_CAN breakout board. The TesLorean will have multiple CAN networks - mostly to separate data traffic and segregate critical drive / battery data from less critical data like AC/instrument cluster, etc.

The HSR controller is made by HSR Motors (hsrmotors.com). They create modules that instruct the paired Tesla small and large drive units to function. The HSR module requires gear selection information (which it can get via CAN or a dedicated switch panel). I played with using a stock gear selector for ages, but feedback and overriding control were issues. For example you could put the automatic stick in D, but that doesn't mean that the controllers have confirmed that your in Drive. The button panel and lights allow for button press detection, the controllers to handshake, and the LED lights to be set to indicate compliance. Modern gear selectors (even the dial type) have a set of motors and solenoids to prevent inappropriate gear selection.

Jeff
 

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The Tesla has a number of coolant diverter valves, one of which is 4 way : TMN 6007370-00-B (two ins, switched between two outs), and others are 3 way : TMN 6007384-00-B (one in, switching between two outs).

The 4-port valve is used to connect the coolant flow into 1 continuous large loop or separate it into 2 smaller loops. Useful for heating/cooling just the battery unit - distinct from whatever the temp of the driveunit. The 3-oprt is used to bypass the radiator and another to bypass the coolant chiller.

The valves are listed as PWM controlled, but this is not correct. There are four wires, +12v and Gnd, Signal and Control. Rather than being PWM, Control should switch between Ground and +12v to switch flow from one outlet to the other (for both the 3 and 4 port valves). Signal indicates value position - but need not be connected for valve control purposes.

3-Port
TMN 6007384-00-B
Electrical Actuated 3/4" 3-port
TMN G9361-0R010
H42M-9000-000

4-Port
TMN 6007370-00-B
Electrical actuated 3/4" 4-port
Invensys 15B16
Motor actuator (12v)
127-00033-001 (90)
H42M-8000-000



Hello DrJeff,


I see in your posts that you are experienced with the Tesla valves. I just picked up a 3 way valve and I am hoping you can tell me which wires are positive and negative.



Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Dr Jeff
Firstly lovely build.
I've been keen to use the Chrysler 200 rotary gear selector for my direct drive build using a UQM motor. have you looked/consider at this as an option? any thoughts / comments ?
steve
Hi Steve,

I did actually try to get some control out of a rotary gear selector from a Chrysler, I wasn't successful, but I think the unit was also damaged.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Hi John,

The 4-way Tesla valve is essentially the same. Let me try in text to outline how the 4 way works...

Inputs are A and B
Outputs are C and D

Mode 1 = A->C & B->D (then C->A and D->B)
Mode 2 = A->D & B->C (then C->A and D->B)

So in mode 1, there are two separate loops of coolant - what I call in my design the inner and outer loops. The Drive Unit is on one loop and the Battery is on another. I suspect this design is because there are occasions when the thermal needs of the drive unit and battery differ.

In mode 2, the two loops become 1, so all the coolant has access to the radiator, the chiller, the heater, etc.

Jeff
 

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One addition, there is a third mode where 1+2+3+4 are connected. Don’t know why you would want that but it is possible.
Then you need to put 12V on pin A and ground pin C.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Trip Computer design is finished and ready to go in the car. The Trip Computer is the master controller in the TesLorean as it controls the primary source of input from the driver (apart from the steering and accelerator) and issues commands to the thermal controller, charger, battery control, instrument cluster, drive unit...

YouTube Trip Computer

Recent work on the TesLorean has all been on controller programming (too darn hot to be in the garage).

Jeff
 

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One addition, there is a third mode where 1+2+3+4 are connected. Don’t know why you would want that but it is possible.
Then you need to put 12V on pin A and ground pin C.
I'm interested in using this 4-way valve for one of my projects. As far as I know there are two confirmed modes:

A = +12 V, C = GND, D = GND/0 V
A = +12 V, C = GND, D = +12 V

The third mode, A = 12 V, C = GND, D = ?

To me, it seems dangerous to leave a signal pin floating, and this could be an undefined state that is vulnerable to a spurious signal. Can anyone confirm this third mode of operation?

F appears to be disconnected. Another user suggested a possible valve reporting state. Does anyone have experience with this?

Final question: does pin D have to be +12 V, or can it be lower, such as + 5V, and is this a continuous DC signal or a PWM?

Cheers,

SW
 

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Just in case someone is looking for a way to control one of the earlier electric battery heaters, the Phillips Temro type, I'm looking at the Crydom DC power relay DC400D20. 400vdc maximum 20amp DC maximum, PWM to 700hz and fully isolated. Best price I've seen is about $75.
 

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Just in case someone is looking for a way to control one of the earlier electric battery heaters, the Phillips Temro type, I'm looking at the Crydom DC power relay DC400D20. 400vdc maximum 20amp DC maximum, PWM to 700hz and fully isolated. Best price I've seen is about $75.
Do you have a link? Where did you buy it?
 

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Hi Lars

Did you ever document the A,B,C,D measurements for this? I have some tight space requirements and need to know these to tell if it will work for me - hard to tell from the pictures. Also, if you have any measurements that can help me tell the reservoir position relative to the center line since I am tight on space there too.

tia,
charles
p.s. great builds both yours and Jeff's!

Once more I am triggered to also start using the iBooster. Still do want to get rid of the vacuum pump and in particular the noise.
Sorry to ask again, but can you please take the measurements from the iBooster for me? I know you did before but the answer is in the "blackout" period of the forum. Plus I need it a little more exact. Hope you can help me out.

It is going to be quite tight whether it will fit next to my battery box.
I've already seen that you can also use it upside down so with the ECU facing to the outside (left for RHD cars).
Can you please take measurements A,B,C,D in the below sketch for me?
View attachment 108229
(Drawing is as seen from the inside of the car so from push-rod end).
Thanks in advance!
 

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Hi Lars

Did you ever document the A,B,C,D measurements for this? I have some tight space requirements and need to know these to tell if it will work for me - hard to tell from the pictures. Also, if you have any measurements that can help me tell the reservoir position relative to the center line since I am tight on space there too.

tia,
charles
p.s. great builds both yours and Jeff's!
Thanks, yes Jeff took them for me.
See post #95 in this thread
https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1016479&postcount=95
And #96 regarding the remote reservoir might be relevant for you too.
 

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Sorry, I should have said that I saw Jeff’s dimensions. Based on your previous post it looks like

A=3.75”
B=2.25”

But it looks like the height measurements are also not symmetric either, but I can’t tell. These are pricey enough that I don’t want to just buy one without having a fighting chance of making it fit 🙂

Are reservoir connections universal? If so, then i agree the Honda remote reservoir would be perfect.

The AliExpress connector doesn’t appear to have the locking mechanism like the oem one - any issues?

And one last question. Just to clarify, you are using this with just 12v power and ignition, no external sensors for the pedal travel (maybe just a switch)?

Thanks,
Charles
 
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