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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The lawn tractor has a hydrostatic Transaxle. currently with a 19hp v twin vertical shaft motor been years since it was sat next to the barn not even sure what is wrong with it. I need to take the motor out and lift the body off the frame, then see if it is salvageable. There are dead two lawn tractors the Craftsman and a troy-bilt I can use either one. I choose the Craftsman because it's Hydro-static transaxle. I might be able to get away with a minimal motor control unit. Just on and off. If I put the mower deck on it I would use the two ryobi 48vmotors I already have and seperate battery packs. I have a 2500 18650's LGGBM261865 2.6Ah10A discharge cells to make the battery packs.
Would either of these motors work?
Tennant Nobles B10 MOTOR, ELE, 24-72VDC 3300RPM 9.42HP 1200569 | eBay 24v-72v [email protected]@100A 3300rpm max from a tennant ride on floor buffer?
IMPERIAL 36 VDC 2000 RPM 2.5 HP 70AMP PERMANENT MAGNET MOTOR P66SR381 | eBay 36v 2.5 hp 2000rpm max



Later floyd
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I bought both motors for better or worse. guess I should actually introduce myself. I like learning new things, Practical, outrageous, sensible or not just like learning. I recently retired and need stuff to keep me busy. so I am going to make a electric tractor. already have 20+ kwh of NMC 18650's, a kweld spot welder. and alot of time.
later floyd
 

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One choice for a motor is the dedicated riding mower replacement motor from Motenergy: ME1004 Brush-Type DC Motor
As it says in the description, its RPM range, output shaft and bearing layout is designed to use the stock drive/deck combination pulley. The continuous HP rating may be somewhat low for some applications.

You may be able to use this motor without a controller. Has anybody tried this? Just use a suitably rated contactor to turn the motor on and off. The motor runs at max voltage and RPM. This is fine for the blade drive and similar to the ICE set-up. The motor current(and RPM, somewhat) increases and decreases with the load on the cutting blades.

For the drive set-up, a separate smaller motor with a variable speed controller might be the best solution. This means the larger motor isn't running between mowing, using up a lot of battery capacity. But, you could drive the transmission with the larger motor alone. It would be similar to the ICE set-up but without the throttling capability. This would not be a problem with an infinitely variable hydrostatic transmission. It may not be practical with a manual transmission. At the very least you want to have a transmission neutral and clutch/brake pedal interlock with the main contactor so the mower doesn't take off suddenly when the contactor is closed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for the reply
I can get pwm dc motor controller for either of the two motors I just bought. I would replace the spindles on the mower deck with 48vdc ryobi mower motors I have two of them. I would have seperate batteries for the Lt drive train and the mower blades. I have plenty of contactors 10 GIGAVAC GX14BBB-1 12V dc contactors
As far as I know the lawn tractor has all the safety equipment it did when new. I can get a electric key switch, the seat switch will be operational and a brake interlock switch can be found if I can't adapt the one that is already on the LT.. Since the LT only has forward and reverse there is no neutral to be switched.
later floyd
 

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I'm having trouble locating photos of the model mower you've described. If you want us to help you, giving us the sears model # and photos of the mower and the parts you have would be a good starting point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
IMG_20210607_112716526.jpg

IMG_20210607_112819529_HDR.jpg

The mowers the first photo is of the craftsman LT2000 lawn tractor, the second photo is of the TROY-BILT Bronco lawn tractor with the Craftsman LT2000 in the background. I can convert either one. I am not sure of the model number other than Craftsman LT2000 with hydrostatic transaxle. Will see if I can find the info on the LT.
Later floyd
 

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You may have a mismatched hood with the chassis for the C-man mower. The model # usually is on a sticker under the seat. I'm curious what the Ryobi motors and their controller looks like. Your Imperial 36V motor as a drive motor could probably be run on 48V. Its Rpm would increase by 48/36 X 2000RPM to ~ a still low speed 2600RPM. The motor's 2.5 HP is plenty to move the mower around unless you plan to pull a plow or pull stumps with it.

Running everything on the same voltage would save having to have 2 different battery banks, 2 different chargers, and other extra parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
IMG_20210703_113621556_HDR.jpg IMG_20210703_113608953_HDR.jpg The controller basicly an on off switch black box switch, red circuit breaker 15A white ceramic resitor 50w the xt60s connect to 24v batteries in series. The max current was 6A this I am not sure on first time using a clamp meter to read current. the motor weighs 10 lbs
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The series connector is on the batteries in the back yard in the ryobi motor.
later floyd
 

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So, these motors are off of a push mower. I was hoping they would be the ones off of the Ryobi riding mower. 15A X 48V = 720W. Say~ 1HP. X 2motors ~ 2hp. I think you will be very disappointed in the cutting ability with this set-up, when compared to the 20+ HP stock ICE set-up. The resistor is a dump load to slow the motor down quickly when the power is turned off, as a safety feature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The motors are off ryobi self propelled walk behind mowers but essentially a push mower. I will end up getting larger motors right now i am concentrating on the LT itself. But thought hey i have theses may as well get some use out of them.
The LT's are 25 miles away at my parents or I would have the model number of the lt2000.
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Yes, that model # comes up as LT2000. If you do go ahead with the Ryobi motors, which I don't recommend, be sure to save all of the pieces removed from the mower deck so you will have back-up options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I will not using the Ryobi motors as you stated they are under powered for the task . So am looking at other options, Maybe using the tennant motor to drive the blades or two 5000 watt motors?. As for the mower deck still trying to locate it.
later floyd
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Your Imperial 36V motor as a drive motor could probably be run on 48V. Its Rpm would increase by 48/36 X 2000RPM to ~ a still low speed 2600RPM. The motor's 2.5 HP is plenty to move the mower around unless you plan to pull a plow or pull stumps with it.

Running everything on the same voltage would save having to have 2 different battery banks, 2 different chargers, and other extra parts.
I have the motors that I bought two weeks ago. Both are in pretty good shape. The Tennant nobles moter is missing most of the positive terminal, I opened up the brush end to look around doesn't appear hard to remove the Brush plate. it has 8 brushes looks a whole lot like a me0709 ME0709 Brush-Type DC Motor
Should be an easy fix. A new brush holder. 4 screw on the back of motor 4 more screw on the brush holder. or once I have the brush holder off the motor I should be able to replace the stud. hopefully the brushes still have some life in them i need to open it up again and use the air compressor on the motor to better gauge it.. I believe it is a detuned version of the me0709 the dimensions are spot on except for the bolt sizes in the drawing they are in inches on the motor i have they are metric. Probably wishful thinking. The price for a tennant brand brush holder is 3 times as much. forgot to check on just the brushes and springs. oh well I am not at that stage yet.
Later floyd
 
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