...trying to make sure tranny can handle it... what is the max torque delivered by 9" DC motor w/ 144v pack? can't find a graph to answer from ADC or Netgain, or maybe I am reading them wrong.
The voltage is irrelevant to torque, it will apply to the rpms where full torque is available, but torque is a matter of amps with a series wound motor.ok, lets add the restriction of '144v at 500 battery amps'.
Really? Looks more like 2700 - 2800 rpm to me from the torque-speed curves, but I have no real experience with it. Edit: Whoops, sorry, I was reading the graph incorrectly, looks like around 3400 rpm on the graph so 3700 seems reasonable.With a 144 volt pack that sags to about 126 volts at 500 amps you can expect to make peak torque from 0 rpm to about 3700 rpm.
Your tranny can maybe take 100 lbs-ft at the input..... but if you have small tire, they can't transmit all this torque to the ground! (especially in first, second and third gear). So, the wheels spin and the input torque at the transmission is lower than 100 lbs-ft....trying to make sure tranny can handle it....
You might look at some calculations I did a while back, particularly the curves at the bottom: http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39931&highlight=motor+theory...trying to make sure tranny can handle it... what is the max torque delivered by 9" DC motor w/ 144v pack? can't find a graph to answer from ADC or Netgain, or maybe I am reading them wrong.
I have that motor and a Curtis 1231C which I'm having upgraded to 1000A. I can get you the guy's info if you're interested. It's a $650 upgrade which will also make it run cooler for a given voltage. Since I upped my voltage I'm having heat problems even in cooler night time temps. I'm also adding a heatsink but reducing the source of heat will help as well. He said likely I wouldn't need fans after the upgrade as long as I had the heatsink installed. Now that would really be an improvement!excellent info, exactly what I need to ask the next question.
If I can expect torque of about 110 ft# from 500 amps... but want more and go out and get a controller capable of delivering say 1000amps the question becomes 'how long can I put 1000 amps into a 9" DC motor before I have thermal problems', and would the 1000 amp controller deliver 220 ft#.
the followup question would be along the lines of which would have thermal problems first, the motor or Thundersky/CALB cells that were being asked to deliver 10C ?
I think you should go with Headway cells or similar (cylindrical cells with thinner electrode coatings for higher power) rather than subjecting TS or CALB to 10C.the followup question would be along the lines of which would have thermal problems first, the motor or Thundersky/CALB cells that were being asked to deliver 10C ?
Which you will also have to do with the Soliton1 if you want to run higher continuous current. Where do you plan to run higher than 400A continuous?Or maybe also liquid cool the Curtis to get higher continuous current.
I think so, depending of course on what ambient is. I expected that he may have in mind higher continuous current than that (though I hope not on public streets ), and also not sure if the above is possible in something like 100F ambient.I actually got the impression from Tess that Sol-1's could do 500/600 amps continuous with just the air cooling depending on ambient...
The 1 hour rating for the Curtis is 225A stock. Here's data from Cloud Electric site on the controller.so, the continuous rating is not changed... just the max burst. I'd consider something like Soliton Jr, or Soliton 1 if you really need something designed for higher continuous power....