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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi!

I am from Latvia, eastern Europe.
I have already started conversion, so I will make my build thread also here!
I plan to go for DC system, as I have very small budget & this is my 1st conversion. Do as many things as possible myself.



Toyota Corolla 1993 hatchback 3 doors, FOR FREE!!! :)
Curb weight with ICE: 1005 kg
Dry weight w/o ICE things: ~770 kg (I will tow & weigh it some day before electric things goes in)

Planned:
DC system
Kostov K9'' 144V motor 24kW continuous (12kW @ 72V)
Open Revolt controller 144V
original Toyota 5 speed manual gearbox, without clutch

Batteries:
System voltage initially would be 72V, but I plan to upgrade to 144V as soon I've got enough finances.

24 x Thundersky LiFePO4 100 or 160 or even 200Ah (depending on my budget situation)
MiniBMS distributed battery management system (or maybe homemade same principle system)

Charger:
Not decided yet, but maybe some LiFePO4 charger from China. Hopefully capable of both initial 72V and later 144V.

DC-DC:
I plan to leave 12V battery, and initially charge it seperately. Later use 12V DC-DC converter. Maybe I would even leave battery (put small LiFePO4 12V battery).

Pumps:
Steering rack - I have'nt decided - maybe connect in loop (but there is concern about legalisation that way) or switch to manual steering rack.
Brake pump - Canister with somekind of vacuum pump and gaugue (Ben Nelson's sytem seemed pretty good).

Heating:
110V USA type ceramic heater/s.

Economy:
I will try to make vehicle as aerodynamic as possible, hard tyres, LED lights everywhere I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)


Here's me and Toyota without ICE stuff. I've taken out enigne, gas tank, radiator, muffler, exhaust system and all other ICE stuff.
Also took out gearbox.
I put new rear brakes, and copper brake tubes.

Cleaned all. Yeah, it must be done better prior taking out ICE, but then there was -30C temperature outside, so it wasn't possible :)


Now I am working on 12V electric system - I took out engine controller block, and wire by wire with little help from some russian Toyota corolla wiring diagrams (that actually are pretty precise) trying to get rid of all ICE related wires and sensors.

I took apart all interior and front panel - I will try to integrate voltmeter and amp meter nicely in main instrumentation board, leaving just spidometer.
 

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Sounds like a reasonable plan, but maybe you should wait until springtime, -30C brrrr!:D I used two ceramic heater cores connected in parallel to get more heat. They will work much better at your planned eventual 144V. I don't think you will get much heat at 72V with lower ambient temperature - probably cool air at -30C ambient.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks, tomofreno! Now it's already +4 C, so its not a problem till next winter :)
Hopefully I will have 144V until then, or else I will need arctic clothes and gaunlets in that car :)
BTW I got an idea to program ceramic heaters to start one hour prior to my departure in morning while car is in 220V outlet, so I can get in cosy car not in an iceberg :D

I am also speculating about AC system - higher voltage, less Ah cells and home built DIY AC inverter-controller (etischer like); but I can't find AC motor for such good price as Kostov DC 9'' 144V...
 

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You might want to check and see if copper brake lines are recommended. Copper is generally not recommended for brake use in the states. It is not as strong as steel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, Ive heard about that in US there aren't recommended to use copper brake pipes, but here in Latvia all repair shops are putting them & all seems to be ok. It isn't exactly copper but copper alloy. When I used them, they seemed to be strong enough. And they don't rust.

Old pipes were so rusty that I could make hole with bare hands. :) But even with them it was possible to tow Toyota 60 km! :)
 
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