The two next projects:
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*update* Conversion of a Komodo 1000 UTV 10kw
Hi, it's Seb from QC/Canada,
So I bought a used Komodo with everything except the transmission. It's a 2013 and we powered up the 12v system to see that it only has 1800km and 31 hours!
I'm waiting for a Golden Motor 10Kw liquid cooled 72v with the controller and all.
Max RPM of the motor is 5000, the front and rear diff are 2.72:1
The battery pack will be 72v 100ah lifepo4. I'm currently looking for it, different solutions possible here.
Since the original transmission is not here, I will use a trans/t-case assembly from a Suzuki carry. They have a ultra low gear.
Why my calculations, top speed in third will be 72km/h which is more than enough.
I can't keep the front diff since in turns CCW against the rear diff. The trans/t-case assembly outputs the same rotation way in front and back... Anyways the front output is way off center so the driving shaft assembly would be a heahache, especially with the CCW rotation.
We stripped the UTV this week, a lot of weight gone. The input of the rear drive fits bolt on on the carry driving shaft bolt pattern. So I will cancel the driving shaft to go directly from the trans splined output to the u-joint to the diff input. Really cool and short, and only the cost off a new u-joint. I won't keep the clutch.
Once I receive the motor I will send it with the trans to a machine shop that will design an adapter plate and a joint to connect them perfectly centered together. Coupling will be made through an specialized hard rubber assembly (don't remember the name of it) to reduce vibration and shocks from high torque. Same stuff they use in hydraulic motor coupling.
I will sell the Cherry 1000cc engine with all the cables and everything that was connected to it (still has perfect compression).
Also, anyone has experienced this motor size on a UTV this size at around 400kg?
I also need advice about the brake booster vaccum. Is it possible to replace it with an electric 12v pump? Or can I just cancel it? The brakes works with this vaccum line open.
I have also two other projects (Suzuki Carry, and mini jeep conversion), if someone already done that i'm curious about the chosen motor and battery capacity. They will be used to delivery Lithium batteries, worms, ice ect to my customers in their rented lakehouse. Max range needed 20km on very steep hills. The Carry will be used to work on the pedestrian trails and on the lakehouse, I need to keep the selectable 4x4 but since it's already in shape i was thinking about using the Curtis AC34 coupled to the trans. Maybe the golden motor 20kw will do instead?
Thx
Seb
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So I bought a used Komodo with everything except the transmission. It's a 2013 and we powered up the 12v system to see that it only has 1800km and 31 hours!
I'm waiting for a Golden Motor 10Kw liquid cooled 72v with the controller and all.
Max RPM of the motor is 5000, the front and rear diff are 2.72:1
The battery pack will be 72v 100ah lifepo4. I'm currently looking for it, different solutions possible here.
Since the original transmission is not here, I will use a trans/t-case assembly from a Suzuki carry. They have a ultra low gear.
Why my calculations, top speed in third will be 72km/h which is more than enough.
I can't keep the front diff since in turns CCW against the rear diff. The trans/t-case assembly outputs the same rotation way in front and back... Anyways the front output is way off center so the driving shaft assembly would be a heahache, especially with the CCW rotation.
We stripped the UTV this week, a lot of weight gone. The input of the rear drive fits bolt on on the carry driving shaft bolt pattern. So I will cancel the driving shaft to go directly from the trans splined output to the u-joint to the diff input. Really cool and short, and only the cost off a new u-joint. I won't keep the clutch.
Once I receive the motor I will send it with the trans to a machine shop that will design an adapter plate and a joint to connect them perfectly centered together. Coupling will be made through an specialized hard rubber assembly (don't remember the name of it) to reduce vibration and shocks from high torque. Same stuff they use in hydraulic motor coupling.
I will sell the Cherry 1000cc engine with all the cables and everything that was connected to it (still has perfect compression).
Also, anyone has experienced this motor size on a UTV this size at around 400kg?
I also need advice about the brake booster vaccum. Is it possible to replace it with an electric 12v pump? Or can I just cancel it? The brakes works with this vaccum line open.
I have also two other projects (Suzuki Carry, and mini jeep conversion), if someone already done that i'm curious about the chosen motor and battery capacity. They will be used to delivery Lithium batteries, worms, ice ect to my customers in their rented lakehouse. Max range needed 20km on very steep hills. The Carry will be used to work on the pedestrian trails and on the lakehouse, I need to keep the selectable 4x4 but since it's already in shape i was thinking about using the Curtis AC34 coupled to the trans. Maybe the golden motor 20kw will do instead?
Thx
Seb
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So I received the motors today. I'm going tomorrow to the machine shop to fit them on the zuk trans.
I will tell them to make the adapter plate for the two models (5kw and 10kw).
I want to do a lot of donuts with this things so I'll test the two option.
The 5kw is not 72v as ordered but 48v. They are really fast to answer problems and will ship a 48v controller at discount. I'll do the testing with acid batteries than I have a lot, the 72v pack will take 2 months to come here and I'm still waiting after my 48v 40ah lifepo4.
So I went with a 50ah lifepo4 accessory battery for the 12v system. I've done the first road test today. Main application was to do donuts in the gravel. Rear diff is locked, and it works better than anticipated, really strong I'm surprised.
I've done :
-12v system on/off in dash to a fuse block from which the brake vaccuum booster works.
-72v system is isolated, reverse on a switch on dash, cruise control on a switch too (not tested)
To do:
-install the brake switch to activate regen
-12v acc (lights, ect)
-12v pump water cooling system
-shim to fix the seats
-reassemble the upper frame, attach the freshly painted body panels
-order a new clutch, new brake pads and disk and some tired bushings
-new oil for the diff and tranny
I need to optimize either the throttle or the parameters in the vec500 controller. It cuts when I floor it. Limited by amp set limit or the throttle settings. There is also a lot of not used range in the throttle. If someone as already found the perfect adjustment for the vec500 with the water cooled 10kw on 72v, I'm listening!
When completed I will add some dc/DC converter to charge the customer cabin 12v system on site and my friend will design and solder a big cargo system on the back to deliver battery, firewood and all to the same customers. This is why the battery is in front, it helps to balance the weight too since I removed the front diff.
A really funny project who exceed my expectations...
I've done :
-12v system on/off in dash to a fuse block from which the brake vaccuum booster works.
-72v system is isolated, reverse on a switch on dash, cruise control on a switch too (not tested)
To do:
-install the brake switch to activate regen
-12v acc (lights, ect)
-12v pump water cooling system
-shim to fix the seats
-reassemble the upper frame, attach the freshly painted body panels
-order a new clutch, new brake pads and disk and some tired bushings
-new oil for the diff and tranny
I need to optimize either the throttle or the parameters in the vec500 controller. It cuts when I floor it. Limited by amp set limit or the throttle settings. There is also a lot of not used range in the throttle. If someone as already found the perfect adjustment for the vec500 with the water cooled 10kw on 72v, I'm listening!
When completed I will add some dc/DC converter to charge the customer cabin 12v system on site and my friend will design and solder a big cargo system on the back to deliver battery, firewood and all to the same customers. This is why the battery is in front, it helps to balance the weight too since I removed the front diff.
A really funny project who exceed my expectations...
Attachments
With the body parts on. I'm still waiting on 4 cpu Alu water cooling block that o will stock on the controller who is heating faster than the motor. I need to put another brake switch to feed the 12v brake lights.
And I will weld the back basket upside down to create a hauling space to deliver wood and ice to the cabins.
Power is enough but once loaded with stuff and on the mountain road it's okay-ish. On the flat the 10kw is a lot more fun to drive than the average 1000cc buggy.
Next project is a Suzuki carry with a 40kw motor. I'll have the parts hopefully by the end of the month.
And I have also a mini Jeep, I will remove the Chinese crap engine and fit in my 5kw gm motor. Should be the easier project of the 3.
I just bought an 2011 azure dynamics transit connect with 30k km on it. If someone know these truck, what should I check on it before putting it to work?
Thx!
Seb
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And I will weld the back basket upside down to create a hauling space to deliver wood and ice to the cabins.
Power is enough but once loaded with stuff and on the mountain road it's okay-ish. On the flat the 10kw is a lot more fun to drive than the average 1000cc buggy.
Next project is a Suzuki carry with a 40kw motor. I'll have the parts hopefully by the end of the month.
And I have also a mini Jeep, I will remove the Chinese crap engine and fit in my 5kw gm motor. Should be the easier project of the 3.
I just bought an 2011 azure dynamics transit connect with 30k km on it. If someone know these truck, what should I check on it before putting it to work?
Thx!
Seb
That looks good. Wondering why your battery is so high up and up front, looks like lots of space low down at the rear.
Also, that motor will take 25kW plus so plenty room to upgrade
cheers
Tyler
Also, that motor will take 25kW plus so plenty room to upgrade
cheers
Tyler
Hi! I needed the back space to carry stuff, I will weld the included screen and tore rack upside down on this space. I can't drop the battery because of structural frame under and the power brake assembly. Since I removed the frond diff and axle I tried to compensate the weight distribution. It handles very good.That looks good. Wondering why your battery is so high up and up front, looks like lots of space low down at the rear.
Also, that motor will take 25kW plus so plenty room to upgrade
cheers
Tyler
The Daly BMS in the batt is real crap, can't charge to 84V and balance is a joke. When I will receive the active balancer I ordered I plan to design the battery larger and less tall.
I'm doing the water cooling circuit right now for the controller. If it's not enough I will probably buy a vec700 to get the max of the battery.
Thx!
Seb
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