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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
It was $440 including 3 day DHL shipping. It has a thermal protection for the BMS itself, but it doesn't have any input for battery temperature.
I think I'm going to go with a DALY BMS similar to the one you purchased. How did you get in contact with the company?
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Parts!
Since my last posts I've ordered a bunch of parts, some are even already here.

300A 14S Daly BMS via AliBaba - There didn't seem to be many BMS options for this battery setup, and this one seems to be a good option with some fun "smart" features.
2x 7S 2019 Nissan leaf battery modules - Really looking forward to seeing what these things can do, they were the most expensive part of this build ($1700 total shipped). The seller was awesome (bumblebee batteries) and sent the stock bus bar to connect them in series as well as the car side of the balance connector.
Meanwell 1600W 48V programmable battery charger - Another part I'm very excited about. It can take in 90-250V AC without any adjustment, meaning I can set the car up to take a 110 wall outlet, or charge slightly faster on a 220V from the wall or from a J1772. I'm probably going to pick up a J1772 adapter from Tucson EV. Stock the charger is set up to do 3 stage charging, but can be configured to do 2 stage and has a bunch of other settings adjustable via an i2c connection. I'm currently designing an arduino compatible library to talk to it and will have a display to view charging info/change parameters on the fly.

There are still a handful of other miscellaneous parts I need. Chief among them is a motor controller, I'm looking at just a bog standard ~250A 48V golf cart controller because they can be had relatively cheaply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Lots of progress since my last update.

The 12V wiring on the car was a mess, and I spent a while getting the turn signals/brake lights/etc. working. Here's what the turn signal module looks like, and my attempt at labeling all the wires that run to it.
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The carpet was pretty rough so we ripped that up and installed some nicer blue carpet
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The "windows" were also in pretty rough shape, so we cut some new vinyl material for them and my friends mom sewed them up for us. The new plexiglass looks great too, we just have to make the windows fit and glue everything up.
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Motor controllers! I was able to grab these two for free, which was awesome, however they are both 24-36V and with a max pack voltage around 60V I think my pack might ruin these controllers.
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I've been trying to find someone to trade for a 48V controller or sell these with no luck. I'm considering just grabbing a cheap one like this PMC 1204M-5305 DC Motor Controller Upgraded 1204M-5301 for Curtis 48V 0-5k【USA】 | eBay but the listing rates it at only 33-48V which makes me think it still might not work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
The batteries are in their (hopefully) final resting place. The battery box is built with PVC board and the batteries are secured down with threaded rod that goes through the aluminum floor. The batteries are also snugly nestled between the frame rails so they shouldn't be going anywhere. There is clearance above, below, and between the batteries to allow air to flow, should I discover the batteries need active cooling. For now there is just a vent, no fan, so I'll keep a close watch on the temps the first few drives. The PVC box is mostly there to keep the batteries & electronics clean and dry since this space under the seats where the original batteries went was not protected from the elements. There's enough room to fit the BMS, charger, and main contactor in there as well. The motor controller and forward reverse contactor are going to live somewhere else.
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
As a part of this project I've also written an open source library for using an Arduino to communicate with both the BMS & the charger, and designed and ordered a custom PCB to hold the microcontroller and a display to show charging information (Rev 1 pictured below).
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BMS Library: maland16/daly-bms-uart
Charger Library: maland16/teensy-RPB-1600
 

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Motor controllers! I was able to grab these two for free, which was awesome, however they are both 24-36V and with a max pack voltage around 60V I think my pack might ruin these controllers.
If they're anything like the golf kart Curtis that I have, you probably won't blow them up with extra voltage, however, they just won't work. They have graceful overvoltage protection where they just shut down if the input voltage is too high (or too low). That said, I think you can squeeze 44 or so volts out of the 36v one, because they're designed for lead acid batteries and "12v" lead acids are close to 15v when charged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
If they're anything like the golf kart Curtis that I have, you probably won't blow them up with extra voltage, however, they just won't work. They have graceful overvoltage protection where they just shut down if the input voltage is too high (or too low). That said, I think you can squeeze 44 or so volts out of the 36v one, because they're designed for lead acid batteries and "12v" lead acids are close to 15v when charged.
Ok, in that case I'll probably pull the trigger on that cheap Ebay controller just so I can get the car on the road. By that math the 48V controller should be able to handle 60V
 
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