[dbargaehr]

Hi,

looking at using a leaf drive in my conversion. Any chance you can provide the dimensions on the motor case length? (and ideally the motor case diameter too)?

Also curious if you're integrating the Leaf's liquid cooling with the existing radiator, or doing something else entirely. I've subscribed to this thread, really excited to see how it turns out.

I don't have the dimensions off hand but they are available somewhere on the tinterweb. I wil be using a VW passat rad (because I already have it) to cool the motors/inverters and to provide cooling to the Volt batteries. I have a separate heater to heat the batteries if needed.

Thanks. I’m curious about the motor dims because the ones I’ve found don’t specify if it’s the 2011-2012 motor or 2013-2017 motor, and Everything I’ve found includes the motor AND inverter/controller.

I like the idea of recycling the existing radiator system.

Really looking forward to seeing how this conversion turns out.

 

[mainfuse]

we are just using the heater core to cool the motor /inverter. seems to work fine even on hot California days in the summer

 

[CanadaLT28]

Thanks. I’m curious about the motor dims because the ones I’ve found don’t specify if it’s the 2011-2012 motor or 2013-2017 motor, and Everything I’ve found includes the motor AND inverter/controller.

I like the idea of recycling the existing radiator system.

Really looking forward to seeing how this conversion turns out.

The 2011/12 is completely different from the later ones (mine are 2013) and practically all the major components are in the smooth curved top. The 2012 has a top with horizontal ribs.



Hopefully the people selling have at least a picture of the unit. I think the motor is the same for all years but charger and dc-dc converter is not. I don't know if this helps at all. This one is a 2013 in the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GG3QRPGlPc&t=317s

 

[CanadaLT28]

Just small steps. Now I have the 2nd of perhaps 4 Volt packs. Still on the lookout for more at a good price.
More stripping of the old LT to get it ready for the cab to come off. It's hard to work outside when it's -10C out, LOL

 

[CanadaLT28]

Well Folks, the project is on. I have decided to start with a new frame which is designed to hold 4 Volt packs (hopefully I will be able to get double the range from the same weight in a few years). I am now in the process of locating the suspension points on the rear. The bag on the suspension is just outside of the connection between the rails and rear cross member so it should be plenty strong when I get the gussets welded on.

 

[dbargaehr]

Well Folks, the project is on. I have decided to start with a new frame which is designed to hold 4 Volt packs (hopefully I will be able to get double the range from the same weight in a few years). I am now in the process of locating the suspension points on the rear. The bag on the suspension is just outside of the connection between the rails and rear cross member so it should be plenty strong when I get the gussets welded on.

Awesome!

Are you finding that salvage EV packs are becoming more and more popular? I feel like as i've watched auto auction sites there seems to be slightly more interest.

 

[CanadaLT28]

Now to make the T4 suspension mount properly to the new frame. There is lots of room for the Leaf motor under the dog house in front of the suspension.

 

[brian_]

This is all looking good.

... but at this point, all that is being used of the LT is the cab, right? It's basically a fully custom built truck, using a variety of production components from multiple sources, one of which is a VW LT cab.

 

[CanadaLT28]

This is all looking good.

... but at this point, all that is being used of the LT is the cab, right? It's basically a fully custom built truck, using a variety of production components from multiple sources, one of which is a VW LT cab.

Yes, the body is from the LT and the all the suspension parts are from the T4 but as I want to keep roughly the same track as the LT (the distance from the drop link from the sway bar and the wheel hub is about 15mm different), I will try to use the LT sway bar in the front. I have cut the main support and I have to go get the old LT sway bar on Monday so I can measure up the right distance.


I got a couple quotes to blast the LT body and they were a bit higher than I thought they should be ($1200, and 1500) so I may try to do it myself.



I am now making the front motor mounts. It is nice to have a working truck to make measurements from. I am driving an orange version of the same truck.

 

[CanadaLT28]

Well, I have elongated the front sub-chassis by 80mm so that the LT sway bar will fit. Now test fitting the motor and suspension together and looking for any binding spots. Nothing is bolted in quite yet so I can adjust things but I will be putting bag shocks on so there will be a bit more space restriction for the shafts. I may have to move the shocks forward by 20-30mm if possible. The height from the top of frame seems to be about the same from the T4 to the LT in my configuration so that is good.

 

[CanadaLT28]

More work done. The front Leaf motor is only there to set some spatial requirements for the suspension so it is not in its final position (height). The VW suspension is sitting on it's bump stops so it looks really low too. The torsion bars are not attached yet and when they are the suspension will rise up quite a bit. Most of the frame mounts are welded up but there is a bit more to do.

 

[CanadaLT28]

Another couple shots of the mounts

 

[CanadaLT28]

We have rolling stock. No steering but it will roll. One issue is that the rear track is 2040mm and the front is 1860mm. I am getting mixed messages about the handling characteristics of a wider track in the rear than the front. This is not a race car so I don't need to get 1g on the skidpad but I would like it to be stable. I can cut the rear main beam and shorten it slightly (I would prefer not to) and/or I can add a couple spacers to the front to lessen the discrepancy. Not sure what to do.

 

[brian_]

WOne issue is that the rear track is 2040mm and the front is 1860mm. I am getting mixed messages about the handling characteristics of a wider track in the rear than the front. This is not a race car so I don't need to get 1g on the skidpad but I would like it to be stable.

Although this track combination is less common than having the front track wider than the rear, that's for practical reasons rather than handling; I see no inherent problem.

What matters is that the roll stiffness is balanced between front and rear, but the right balance depends on suspension geometry (including camber change with travel and roll centre height) and load distribution... and track dimensions. If the front and rear suspensions were identical in design it would be easier to compare and tweak them, but in this case they are not even similar (other than being independent and having VW logos cast into some parts ), but that's normal. For stability, just don't go with excessive rear roll stiffness; you don't want the rear to lose more traction than the front as a consequence of tire angle and loading changes while cornering.

 

[CanadaLT28]

Although this track combination is less common than having the front track wider than the rear, that's for practical reasons rather than handling; I see no inherent problem.

What matters is that the roll stiffness is balanced between front and rear, but the right balance depends on suspension geometry (including camber change with travel and roll centre height) and load distribution... and track dimensions. If the front and rear suspensions were identical in design it would be easier to compare and tweak them, but in this case they are not even similar (other than being independent and having VW logos cast into some parts ), but that's normal. For stability, just don't go with excessive rear roll stiffness; you don't want the rear to lose more traction than the front as a consequence of tire angle and loading changes while cornering.

The stock LT has an equal track as does 2-3 other trucks I have seen but as double wheel trucks "appear" to have a wider track, I will assume the suspension and frame is, as you say, flexible enough take the movement, I won't worry too much about that. My biggest issue is that the battery box will be in there and will have to be quite stiff. I may have to build in some capability for it to move a bit without flexing itself.

 

[brian_]

The stock LT has an equal track as does 2-3 other trucks I have seen but as double wheel trucks "appear" to have a wider track, I will assume the suspension and frame is, as you say, flexible enough take the movement, I won't worry too much about that.

Many lighter trucks with dual rear wheels do have wider rear track than front (because the single-rear-wheel version has slightly wider front track, but the extra rear wheels tacked on the outside add significantly to track), although medium-duty and heavy-duty trucks actually have narrower rear track, because the effective tire centres are in the middle of those rear pairs.

This should be a suspension question, not a frame question: the ideal frame is infinitely stiff, and lets the suspension work. In reality the frame does take torque and does twist as a result, but that's primarily an issue with uneven ground (which happens regardless of relative track dimensions), rather than the reaction to cornering forces. Even for reaction to cornering force, the suspension roll stiffness is as important as the track dimension - with identical track front and rear there will still be torque on the frame, dependent of roll stiffness and where the body and cargo loads are attached to the frame.

My biggest issue is that the battery box will be in there and will have to be quite stiff. I may have to build in some capability for it to move a bit without flexing itself.

Yes, that's common good practice for mounting on truck frames. Three-point mounting is the straightforward (but not always practical) solution.

 

[CanadaLT28]

This should be a suspension question, not a frame question: the ideal frame is infinitely stiff, and lets the suspension work. In reality the frame does take torque and does twist as a result, but that's primarily an issue with uneven ground (which happens regardless of relative track dimensions), rather than the reaction to cornering forces. Even for reaction to cornering force, the suspension roll stiffness is as important as the track dimension - with identical track front and rear there will still be torque on the frame, dependent of roll stiffness and where the body and cargo loads are attached to the frame.


Yes, that's common good practice for mounting on truck frames. Three-point mounting is the straightforward (but not always practical) solution.

I need to give the 3 point mount some thought. I was thinking to have the box roll in and out on a couple large bearings then bolted in place. I did lift one corner and was a bit concerned at how much flex the frame has but I also know it has a large 2.4m currently unsupported (from twisting) length which will change when the box is in there.



I think I have the bag geometry set up now. This is at the approximate desired ride height.

 

[CanadaLT28]

2000kg torsion bars arrived from the UK and are now mounted. The receiver, luckily, is right under the frame member. Tacked up for now. Weld, weld, weld. Once that is under tension, it will be time to set the motor height.

 

[CanadaLT28]

It's been a while but the rear motor is mounted. Front just needs the rear motor mount finished which will be this weekend.

 

[CanadaLT28]

Getting closer. Both motors mounted in their assigned spots. See next post