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nice! this is coming along well! Im thinking that rolling it to the blasters on new suspension is probably the best of your options.

Im guessing your going to tow it to the blasters on a trailer or truck? It could be easier to make up some dummy wheels for under it, Weld up some basic frame with some heavy duty swivel caster wheels on the bottom, bolt it to the suspension points then you've got the chassis mobile and you can still work on freshening up the suspension while its getting blasted and any tiny rust patches seen to. Then when it comes home from that, its ready to go onto your fresh new suspension.

Are you planning a paintjob too? This is the best time to do it, right after blasting.

As for the power level, more is always better. You can always control how much power there is with the accellerator pedal, but if there's not enough power, there's no fixing that.
 

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Fun project! You can remove your "Don't honk, I'm pedaling as fast as I can" bumper sticker when done.

There's lots of guys that use a rust encapsulating like POR15 right over the rust. I'm skeptical. The soda blasters referred to by others is better.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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Get innertubes for the tires to hold air or used tires from wherever cheap like € 5. Used to be tow bars available that attach onto the front beam, but a super bug one will bolt to whatever is left of the bumper brackets with a bit of modification. My superbug one is attached to the ranger for when people ignore the low charge light and keep driving anyways. I have also seen u haul rental tow dollies drag bussies around. Finally vehicle tow companies, but they start at €100 a trip
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Disassembly complete! Waiting for the outdoor temperature to rise above 0C, then pushing this out from the garage for pressure washer.



Some rust hiding beneath the windscreen seal. Typical place for almost all vehicles.





Overall does not look too bad. I found few rotten spots from the bottom too and looks like at least one of the crossbeams needs to be redone. Compared to other T2 barn finds it could still be much worse. :D

Ended up covering the asbestos seals with liberal amounts of regular PVA glue to encapsulate all the fibers. Then pried them off as one chunk of rubbery glue at next day and disposed as hazardous waste. That's them safely sorted as well.

Negotiating with local shop about chassis works. :)

Started looking for the Leaf motor as well. It would seem that EM61 is more available in my region, but I've read from here that EM57 is more often used, so I might look for that instead. I haven't measured the motor bay yet so I don't know if it'll fit as a stack or if the inverter needs to be removed and relocated as in EM61. Once I have chassis work sorted, I think I'll make mock-ups about batteries and motors from cardboard to see what fits and where.

Is there a reason why I definitely shouldn't go with EM61 if one presents itself with good pricepoint? Some custom inverter boards or VCU not compatible? Difficult to source some parts that I'll end up needing? Anything? :p

I'm also trying to understand Leaf stack required "aftermarket" boards and what will I need when the time comes.
 

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Must have been a frustrating week at work...you got a lot of work done on The Pappamobile.

EM61 is a better motor. Also no worries about fit. Nobody wants them which is good. Get the cables with it if you can. Look for a newer Leaf PDM (nobody tell her why, lol) that you can remote where packaging allows.
 

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Disassembly complete! Waiting for the outdoor temperature to rise above 0C, then pushing this out from the garage for pressure washer.



Some rust hiding beneath the windscreen seal. Typical place for almost all vehicles.





Overall does not look too bad. I found few rotten spots from the bottom too and looks like at least one of the crossbeams needs to be redone. Compared to other T2 barn finds it could still be much worse. :D

Ended up covering the asbestos seals with liberal amounts of regular PVA glue to encapsulate all the fibers. Then pried them off as one chunk of rubbery glue at next day and disposed as hazardous waste. That's them safely sorted as well.

Negotiating with local shop about chassis works. :)

Started looking for the Leaf motor as well. It would seem that EM61 is more available in my region, but I've read from here that EM57 is more often used, so I might look for that instead. I haven't measured the motor bay yet so I don't know if it'll fit as a stack or if the inverter needs to be removed and relocated as in EM61. Once I have chassis work sorted, I think I'll make mock-ups about batteries and motors from cardboard to see what fits and where.

Is there a reason why I definitely shouldn't go with EM61 if one presents itself with good pricepoint? Some custom inverter boards or VCU not compatible? Difficult to source some parts that I'll end up needing? Anything? :p

I'm also trying to understand Leaf stack required "aftermarket" boards and what will I need when the time comes.
Disassembly complete! Waiting for the outdoor temperature to rise above 0C, then pushing this out from the garage for pressure washer.



Some rust hiding beneath the windscreen seal. Typical place for almost all vehicles.





Overall does not look too bad. I found few rotten spots from the bottom too and looks like at least one of the crossbeams needs to be redone. Compared to other T2 barn finds it could still be much worse. :D

Ended up covering the asbestos seals with liberal amounts of regular PVA glue to encapsulate all the fibers. Then pried them off as one chunk of rubbery glue at next day and disposed as hazardous waste. That's them safely sorted as well.

Negotiating with local shop about chassis works. :)

Started looking for the Leaf motor as well. It would seem that EM61 is more available in my region, but I've read from here that EM57 is more often used, so I might look for that instead. I haven't measured the motor bay yet so I don't know if it'll fit as a stack or if the inverter needs to be removed and relocated as in EM61. Once I have chassis work sorted, I think I'll make mock-ups about batteries and motors from cardboard to see what fits and where.

Is there a reason why I definitely shouldn't go with EM61 if one presents itself with good pricepoint? Some custom inverter boards or VCU not compatible? Difficult to source some parts that I'll end up needing? Anything? :p

I'm also trying to understand Leaf stack required "aftermarket" boards and what will I need when the time comes.
that is some ugly rust, it looks like you'll be talking to a good body man/welder after you get that area blasted
or
 

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While it may look ugly, it's hidden and any patch looks like it can be welded to solid material before getting out to a visible flat body panel. It's in a perfect spot for pinched spot welding, a key machine to see that the body shop has.

See if you can find "factory" repair panels vs custom beating sheet metal into submission.
 

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Fyi, we put a metalized epoxy around the window of one of my old trucks to fill in small rust holes and prevent further rust. The cab was blasted to bare metal before this was done.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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That is a relatively easy repair, likely a patch panel is available too. Just done that same repair on the Chevy a few months back. Watch some YT videos, use a good inverter welder, hammer the welds to de-stress... easy

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Rim

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Disassembly complete! Waiting for the outdoor temperature to rise above 0C, then pushing this out from the garage for pressure washer.



Some rust hiding beneath the windscreen seal. Typical place for almost all vehicles.





Overall does not look too bad. I found few rotten spots from the bottom too and looks like at least one of the crossbeams needs to be redone. Compared to other T2 barn finds it could still be much worse. :D

Ended up covering the asbestos seals with liberal amounts of regular PVA glue to encapsulate all the fibers. Then pried them off as one chunk of rubbery glue at next day and disposed as hazardous waste. That's them safely sorted as well.

Negotiating with local shop about chassis works. :)

Started looking for the Leaf motor as well. It would seem that EM61 is more available in my region, but I've read from here that EM57 is more often used, so I might look for that instead. I haven't measured the motor bay yet so I don't know if it'll fit as a stack or if the inverter needs to be removed and relocated as in EM61. Once I have chassis work sorted, I think I'll make mock-ups about batteries and motors from cardboard to see what fits and where.

Is there a reason why I definitely shouldn't go with EM61 if one presents itself with good pricepoint? Some custom inverter boards or VCU not compatible? Difficult to source some parts that I'll end up needing? Anything? :p

I'm also trying to understand Leaf stack required "aftermarket" boards and what will I need when the time comes.
heritage parts center advertises a three piece repair kit, heritage parts centre.com VW bay bus body panels page three
 

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That wasn't spam.

It's the right way to do it:


Lots of other good pieces on that site from a quick glance.

That said, the parts I linked appear to originate in the UK, so...
 

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Started looking for the Leaf motor as well.
Why start to look at a motor as what is the most important in a electric vehicle is the battery?

Can I suggest you another way to do a conversion? You can take an entire EV powertrain coming from a wreck EV and put all the parts needs in your van.

By proceeding like that you will have anything you need. And there is a lot to need: Traction battery, bms, charger, charge port, motor, drive, DC converter, heater, accelerator pedal, brake booster, wheel speed sensors and so on. All this cost a lot when buy separately, but are include in a wreck EV.
It's exactly what I did with my Vanabolt: Westfalia T3 with Chevy Bolt drivetrain
And there is two others guys here in Quebec who used a complete EV to convert her VW van (T2 and T3).

As you are on the old continent, there is a lot of choice of EV and there is maybe an EV with the perfect battery to fit under the floor of a T2 and the perfect motor who fit in the rear.
Maybe start to look at Peugeot e-208, VW ID3, Hyundai Kona, Renault ZOE, Tesla M3 and other.
I know the Tesla model 3 battery modules and the motor are available free on grabcad.
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Why start to look at a motor as what is the most important in a electric vehicle is the battery?

Can I suggest you another way to do a conversion? You can take an entire EV powertrain coming from a wreck EV and put all the parts needs in your van.

By proceeding like that you will have anything you need. And there is a lot to need: Traction battery, bms, charger, charge port, motor, drive, DC converter, heater, accelerator pedal, brake booster, wheel speed sensors and so on. All this cost a lot when buy separately, but are include in a wreck EV.
It's exactly what I did with my Vanabolt: Westfalia T3 with Chevy Bolt drivetrain
And there is two others guys here in Quebec who used a complete EV to convert her VW van (T2 and T3).

As you are on the old continent, there is a lot of choice of EV and there is maybe an EV with the perfect battery to fit under the floor of a T2 and the perfect motor who fit in the rear.
Maybe start to look at Peugeot e-208, VW ID3, Hyundai Kona, Renault ZOE, Tesla M3 and other.
I know the Tesla model 3 battery modules and the motor are available free on grabcad.
Good luck
Hi!

Thanks for the suggestion. :) I am looking at all the different ways/paths to take as the chassis issues are slowly being resolved. Looking at motor is what our inspection guys will be concerned about lateron when I try to get my plates, so I had to start there. Then once deciding on motor it was possible to start looking for batteries to go with it (voltage). I've mostly settled for Leaf motor, just debating the pro's and con's of the differences between EM61/57. Also mostly settled for Tesla Model 3 batteries (preferably LR) at the moment. Just checking availability, prices and need to double confirm that the Model3 batteries will fit where I'd ideally want them to fit.

Also before buying any parts, I am trying to do as much research and planning as possible, so I don't end up with a pile of parts I cannot put together and/or are fundamentally incompatible with each others or something similar. :)

I did consider getting a wrecked EV for parts donor, but... 1) I don't own a yard or other space where I can store the whole wreck long-term. My garage is in an industrial area where it's hm.. very much frowned upon if someone stores their cars in the garage yard for prolonged time. :D 2) You'd be surprised how difficult it is to find a wrecked EV in Finland, I have looked, but it doesn't seem to be a real possibility. Wrecks (insurance write-offs) are mostly sold in auction here, and we're a population of 5mil people so there might be maybe 1-2 EV's in auction a year, depending on the amount of moose on the roads I guess. Finding it from some other EU country probably would be a possibility, but that brings all the shipping hurdles and logistical headache with it. Not to mention the cost.
 

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If you are looking at Tesla M3 battery, please buy a complete M3 and use the nice and compact motor of this car. This one will easily fit in the van and give you plenty of power. That will be really fun to drive.
The inverter is part of the motor.
The battery will be more complex to integrate as two of the four modules are 2 meter long.

Here in Quebec we are only 8 millions and there is regularly wreck EV for sale at auction. Amazing how many peaples crash each week.
I had to ask (and pay) a wrecker with all the legal papers to buy my Chevrolet Bolt back to 2018.

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