For sure, thanks.
Here is the last version of the 3D model for the electric Vanagon.
... or buy shafts (presumably custom-made) which are splined for the Vanagon outer CVs on one end and the Bolt inner tripod joints on the other end. Is that a possibility?Of course a 14.375'' Vanagon cv joint shaft is not ready to fit to the Bolt transmission, so I have to rework the Bolt output shaft to fit the Vanagon cv joint.
This is of course the ideal solution.... or buy shafts (presumably custom-made) which are splined for the Vanagon outer CVs on one end and the Bolt inner tripod joints on the other end.
Likely. A lot of people get a lot of shafts made with splined ends, so someone might do them at a tolerable cost. But there's no way to know without asking.This is of course the ideal solution.
But I don't know were to ask a quote and I bet the price will be massive.
So what's the plan? Cut off the cups of the Bolt's inner stub shafts, turn them flat and true (if they were not cut off on a lathe), machine flanges with holes to match the VW CV joints, and weld the flanges to the stub shafts? I assume that the Bolt stub shaft cup bases are not large enough in diameter to match the VW flanges, leading to the need for an added flange; something needs to precisely centre those flanges (perhaps a dowel on the centreline?). If paying someone else for machining and welding, this isn't going to be cheap, either.At the moment, I pay 220$ for two shafts and 10$ for two adapters.
Yes, I have some rework and weld to do, but this seem a cheap alternative to have the perfect cv shafts.
ThanksYou fully understand the plan.
By chance I have access to a lathe and a TIG, so the extra cost is my time.
That looks like a solid good plan to me.You fully understand the plan.
By chance I have access to a lathe and a TIG, so the extra cost is my time.
The solution is in fact simpler.If you need to machine relief for bolt heads into the Bolt stub axle portion (I think I see one in the CAD model), you'll need a dividing head or rotary table on a mill. I just spotted both at a friend's recently. His mill isn't set up yet but I'm sure he'd lend us the accessories if you don't find a better solution elsewhere.
~ reid
I assume that Reid understands that, and is referring to the shallow notch on the far outside edge of the machined Bolt cup which is visible in the rendering.The solution is in fact simpler.
I order laser cut Weldox steel parts with VW bolt pattern (few $$) and I will weld it to the machined Chevy Bolt transmission output shaft.
I have no doubt that the welded joint can handle the torque.It's the same solution I used for my Smart 10 years ago and everything is fine today despite the max torque at CV joint is higher on the Smart (1600 Nm in first gear compare to 1250 Nm with the fix ratio of the Bolt)
All worked out, which is what I expected.In fact, the adapter is tapped with M8 holes. So, no nuts or heads bolt on this side.
It's why I use weldox steel instead of 44W. The yield strength is 700 Mpa instead of 300 Mpa, so the tapped holes will be stronger.
About the welding, I hope the imbalance will be too small for that to be an issue.
Here is the cv shafts. The slide fit of the splines on the female splines of the 1980 cv joint is simply perfect.
Also, you can see the 4x2'' reinforcement beams I added to the Vanagon floor. Really there are too strong/thick for this frame. I used 1/8'' steel (11Ga), but 14 Ga shoulded be enought and reduce the weight as the original VW frame is build from 2mm steel (0.08'').
Next step is to weld in place the battery supports on the frame and the reinforcment tubes (lifted by a jack on the picture).
This thread contains contains a link to a google spreadsheet with all the PIDs you are probably interested in.Open question for all: What is the best OBD2 PIDs to have access to chevy Bolt details like min/max cell V, cells temps, charge power, electronic temps, and others?