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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm using a leaf pack for my conversion, and I was wondering, since the motor and inverter are liquid cooled, ergo I still need coolant and a radiator, what kind of temperature will that coolant be running at under normal operation?
I was wondering, could I simply plumb it so that it runs Radiator Cold -> Inverter -> Motor -> Heater Core -> Radiator Hot and save needing to run an electric heater unit?
This would simplify my in-cab stuff hugely.
Primarily the reasoning is that in Australia you still need to be able to demist the windows with a heater, by not compromising the heater, I can just leave everything under the dash stock as a rock and unmolested, and then if anything breaks, OEM parts are still a goer.
 

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The problem is that you need to drive, under load, to generate heat, but first, you need the heat to defog, so you can drive.

I have been thinking about this problem, myself. I'm thinking about fitting a small (~5 litre) coolant tank, with a heating element in it, possibly from an RV hot water tank. May want to isolate the cabin heat loop from the rest of the cooling system. May want solenoid valves to isolate the cabin, as needed.

More thought will be needed, for me to come up with a plan. Keeping as much of the original vehicle systems as possible is key.
 

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I'm thinking about fitting a small (~5 litre) coolant tank, with a heating element in it, possibly from an RV hot water tank.
Why an RV water heater element? If you're thinking that they are 12 V DC... no. An RV water heater is normally propane-fired, with an optional 120 V AC element around 1400 watts.

If you're running around 120 V from the battery, it would work, if that's the power level you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The problem is that you need to drive, under load, to generate heat, but first, you need the heat to defog, so you can drive
Yet it's fully acceptable to have the same system in an ICE....which has the same issue...you can't defrost until you drive and get the motor to temp.
 

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Yet it's fully acceptable to have the same system in an ICE....which has the same issue...you can't defrost until you drive and get the motor to temp.
But no matter how long you sit unmoving in an EV, the motor isn't going to get warm. With an ICE, the windshield will start to defog after a couple of minutes. Perhaps you have seen this?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
But no matter how long you sit unmoving in an EV, the motor isn't going to get warm. With an ICE, the windshield will start to defog after a couple of minutes. Perhaps you have seen this?
I'll be honest I haven't used a demister in about 10 years, even living in Canberra, the car I owned was so leaky in its seals that the inside was -5 when the outside was -5 🤣

Now I live in Queensland and it hasn't been cold enough in the 2 years I've lived here to need one, and I have zero plans to go further south of here, as my arthritis in my knees plays up in the cold.
 

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At "idle" my inverter and motor are always above 80°F, so maybe it'd work. Is there, like, a "test" that you need to pass for legal reasons? If this was really a concern, I'd sooner wipe the windows with a squeegee or my hands the few times a year I needed to rather than plumb in a defrost system...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
At "idle" my inverter and motor are always above 80°F, so maybe it'd work. Is there, like, a "test" that you need to pass for legal reasons? If this was really a concern, I'd sooner wipe the windows with a squeegee or my hands the few times a year I needed to rather than plumb in a defrost system...
Not according to the rules, I must have it there, don't think I have to demonstrate use.
 
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