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Hello this my first Electric passenger Vehicle. Traded my nonworking vw sandrail for a nonworking 2010 wheego whip lsv. Definitely a mistake at this point. So many things i didn't understand. But now im here

Was hoping i could just use manual transmission box in this thing to hopefully go fast than the said speed of 35 mph! Is that true! Thats crap though i probably should've ask what lsv was... Ugh well now i know.

Ive never messed with a Curtis controller.. But i got right into it. Looked up the error blinking light code which was an error 68 a VCL error. After finding out that VLC meant vehicle control language. I was lost found out I needed a Curtis programmer. Got me a Opto isolated usb interface v4 compatible from Sweden to use the curtis programmer program in dealer mode. An to see what the VLC errors were. When i first looked it had the following error codes in history
649 Overvoltage Cutback
658 Main Open/Short
670 VCL Run Time Error
648 Undervoltage Cutback
84 Check Transducer
643 Pot 2 Wiper High
647 Severe Overvoltage

Since these were old errors apparently, I erase their history (but saved everything) should have kept it and then checked it again one thing popped up vcl runtime error nothing else I knew that was where I should start looking.
Then I found out Curtis sold another device that you can read the VLC. Being curtis make that hard to come by.. I figured I can read the Curtis 1238 controller manual. An found out what what different VCL parameters meant an what the values mean and what they do and I noticed something under fault checking

The driver 2-4, an PD checks enabled were off. So i programmed them on checked the errors again. After a ksi cycle. lo-and-behold I got two new error messages. PD open/short and coil 2 driver open/short

VCL error module = 21
VCL error = 5

When reading through the troubleshooting chart in the Curtis manual I found the coil 2 driver open/shorts code 32 an the Pd open/short code 35. An checked pin 2 and pin 5 on the 35pin amp connector for an open circut or short or dirty.. Bad crimps.. according to the troubleshooting guide of possible causes. Both pins 5 an 2 from the 35 pin amp connector goes to dash cluster with no shorts. An wires arent shorted to any but the dash cluster 10 pin connector.

I took the lock and unlock window module out to check the relays inside.. of it curious as to what it was... An didn't know prior to it.. and managed to short the 5 volt rail to a 12 volt DC frying the small surface mount transistors. But since the im guessing parts guy bryan from wheego answer my email about ordering a new lock/unlock an window module an new key fobs. I just order a new one.. So i fixed my screw up lol

Well after installing the new lock unlock window module I noticed that. Nothing change lol besides the windows roll down better... Hope there was hope..which is gone now.
I messaged Bryan at wheego about these errors or if the cluster is the problem?
The dash cluster has a battery gauge that does not work and a assuming. Cheap version of a Curtis 840 15r Spyglass that doesn't work either
Got my hands on a 840 spyglass an same **** were shown on screen at ksi cycle as stock one. Replace the 12vdc cincon. An started looking up datasheet on some of the microcontroller. One towards bottom left is for battery level (labeled rpm lol) View attachment 119955

Idk what to do at this point other than remove curtis controller an checkout pin 2 an 5 internally? An trace the 2 pins on dash cluster to see where they go on board... Has anybody done a bypass on pin 2 an 5 that would work? I noticed EM Brake Type= 0 what happens if i just change that to 1 or 2?

I mentioned to the Wheego Guy Brian about him sending me the VCL 1.48 default parameters because the faults being turned off makes me curious if somebody had seen something else within the vehicle control language. So i can just double check the parameters with oem or stock ones. Would anyone on here have the cpf file on hand?
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